MTFCA Forum

There is this 26 roadster pickup in a garage. It was last run in 1971 and has sat buried in a garages for the last 50 years. the problem is, it has sat in my garages. It started out when I was 15 with a stuck motor, a frame and 2 axles and evolved into a roadster pickup by finding parts and assembly. Then I got married and there it sits.
Now the important questions.
The original valve keeper pins, were they hardened or what type of replacement is used? Would Stainless rod work? I have read that the replacement pins from the vendors is softer and can let go.
If I use the 3 hole exhaust gaskets, is a gland ring used with them? I want to grind the valves and put stainless valves in. I have a set I acquired over the years and have the tools to grind the seats. I am looking at putting adjustable lifters in. It was always underpowered and the valves were never adjusted even though it had good compression. I had to back up the hill going home many times as it would not make it in low
When I was 16 or 17 I adapted a Model A Carb to this motor and made overhead linkage. Now I want to put a NH carb on it to get it going again.
My dad was a good source of information and help back then and I sure miss that. That is why we all have to help those with questions as now a lot of us are the older generation and have knowledge on various aspects of the Model T.
Licensing is no problem as it is titled and has South Dakota historical license on it.
I was going to start on it last fall but the Covid won out and put me in the hospital and took most of my energy away. Now I feel like doing things again. Thank you for any help.

Before going any further, I recommend that you check the condition of the rod bearings, crankshaft surfaces, and crankshaft endplay.
I drove my car for 17 years then it sat for 23 years. Then I ground the valves and the car ran well. The problem was the rods were talking to me. I pulled the engine and found that the mains, rods, cam bearings. transmission bushings etc were worn out and reverse drum was cracked. Joe Bell did most of the work. has been running for 3.5 years and 4800 miles,

If you plan to replace the valves, you can get from the vendors a valve with a 2 piece keeper. It is not like the old ones. I think they are Chevy valves, but don't hold me to it. I'm sure someone else knows what kind they are. I just took the engine to a machine shop to rebore the cylinders and do a valve job and they installed them. The keepers are half circle with a ridge which fits into a groove in the valve stem. I also have adjustable lifters. The ones with a lock nut will stay in adjustment better than the ones which just have very tight threads.
The manifolds should always have the have the glands installed regardless of what type gasket you use. I personally prefer the copper rings separate for every port . The glands will hold the exhaust manifold in place when it gets hot and prevent warping. Without them the manifold will get very hot toward the rear because the exhaust from all cylinders goes through that part. Then the rear of the manifold will begin to sag and eventually it gets so bad you cannot get it to seal without straightening or replacing it.
The Model T only has 22 hp and 2 speeds forward. If your hill is too steep to climb in low, a Ruckstell rear axle would give you a compound low which is lower than the Ford Low. With a 26 you can climb just about any hill in low low because of the high gas tank.
Norm

My problem was not gas, I did not have enough power or a long run. Reverse is a lower gear than low and there was enough power to back up the hill. Our coach had a 56 T-Bird and he could not make it up a lot of the time.
I have 7 new stainless valves to use that use the Ford style keeper pin so I will order a valve to match and put the other money it would cost toward adjustable lifters.