MTFCA Forum

Has anyone experienced problems with the new foot operated starter switches currently available from suppliers?

Mine shorted out and would not disconnect.

No troubles with the $32.95 style, USA mfg., have used these all the time.

No experience with the $14.95 style, too inexpensive to work well, IMO.

With a new replacement I had to remove, it would appear that the heat generated in its use led to the bridging contact loosing whatever 'spring' it had, so that it would no longer disengage. I always use an original, rebuilt withe new insulating washers and cleaned up contacts.

AllAn from down under.

As Dan alluded to above - there's a cheap, imported POS available, who knows why - I won't carry them in stock and then there's the gold old Made in USA switch - I sold & installed dozens without any problems. Are you stating that you had the "better" one of the two go North on you, Allan ?

Pardon my spelling - "good old" !

Friend had gotten a second switch after his first failed ($32.95 style, USA mfg.). Gave to me to investigate. The problem is that a long plunger tube acts as a pry bar and bends the metal base IF not depressed straight down. So if it pushed for ward it will cause a connection failure. Review the pictures and decide. Solution for the weak mounting at the plunger base may be solved with a spot weld - if it can take the heat

No Steve, it was a new, unbranded switch of dubious quality. While I can still find originals to rebuild, I stay away from any modern replacements, the best one requiring work on the bracket mount to get the plunger to fit the hole in the floorboards.

AllAn from down under.

Frank

Nice photos and details. Might be wise to send your photos to Steve Lang and see if there is some type of issue with a production lot of the higher quality repro switches. The bend of the metal around the footswitch pedestal is interesting.


Have these switches on all of my T's and never issues like you are showing. About the only thing I take care is installing the extension sleeve. Spread the slots in the sleeve gently with a blunt screwdriver tip, so the sleeve glides on without any heavy hammering.

And make sure the switch plate is firm on the frame rail to keep the switch pedestal from being off-center. The load on that footswitch is only with slight heel pressure, as for me, the T's start right up fast with good tuning, don't have to engage the switch but just a few seconds.

In 2001 when I first started purchasing items on eBay, One of the first items I bought was a very reliable original Model T floor starter button for my 1926 Coupe. It has never given me any trouble like I used to experience with the modern starter buttons which used to always arc and ground out. I have never had any need to go into it to service it, so I don’t know how it is constructed to make it so reliable, but I highly recommend buying an original if you can find one. Jim Patrick

DanTreace wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 06, 2021 9:11 pm

Frank

Nice photos and details. Might be wise to send your photos to Steve Lang and see if there is some type of issue with a production lot of the higher quality repro switches. The bend of the metal around the footswitch pedestal is interesting.


Have these switches on all of my T's and never issues like you are showing. About the only thing I take care is installing the extension sleeve. Spread the slots in the sleeve gently with a blunt screwdriver tip, so the sleeve glides on without any heavy hammering.

And make sure the switch plate is firm on the frame rail to keep the switch pedestal from being off-center. The load on that footswitch is only with slight heel pressure, as for me, the T's start right up fast with good tuning, don't have to engage the switch but just a few seconds.

Langs switch.jpg

The way you have the switch protruding through the hole in floor board should prevent the failure of the plunger at the base. Only a downward force can be applied. Its the exposed height of the plunger & hole size in the floor allowing for to much forward movement that leverage will cause a failure. Which could also be caused by minimal gap between floor and mounting flange. I'm still concerned with the switch getting wet - same concern with the design of the original switch but not as much - it could drain

TBill wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 06, 2021 6:34 am

Has anyone experienced problems with the new foot operated starter switches currently available from suppliers?
Mine shorted out and would not disconnect.

Where did it short out? externally across the exposed posts or internally? Did you take it apart - pictures?

Mine was the cheap version. Instead of a bar to connect the two electrodes there were brass discs.

I was running my engine for the second time since rebuild and had been having to crank excessively, probably due to weak coils. New (rebuilt) coils haven’t arrived yet.

I dug out the original starter switch and after some clean up and rubber washer replacement it is working fine so far.

I will be on the lookout for more originals as I have three more T projects after this one.

THANKS ALL

Normally, finding good original footswitches is a hit and miss for me.

The insulated washers are a paper type, and can be frayed and always need to be substituted with some other method. The contact band strip assembly most times are feathered worn on the ends, and lack good spring action.

The button contacts are normally easy to bring back to shape by filing flat and smooth.

The earliest original Ford switches were held together with two screws much like the good USA repro (I believe they're a Ford tractor replacement) - those are harder to find but much easier to "service" unlike the 4 tab type as shown above.

Steve, that's correct.

Or this way works, went to Tractor Supply and bought a 'universal' footswitch, probably for tractors or something. It has a rectangular base, so cut a matching hole in the Ford mounting plate for clearance and bolted on the new universal footswitch, still working good

Add a solenoid and let the foot switch work solenoid. Takes load of starter off the foot switch. Dan

I did the same as Dan, not had a problem since.

Just bought a new starter switch from a reputable supplier. It was junk from the get-go. Started the car a couple times and then the top popped off and the starter started running continuously. Had to take the battery cable off the starter. I did the same thing by altering the new bracket to fit a tractor starter switch. Maybe better results but if anything else easier to source.

That's exactly what happens to the POS imported type !!!

I had the same experience as Brian.

I just connected up my starter switch to test and it started smoking after about 5 seconds. Starter turned over but slower than it should. I am wondering if my switch is bad or if my wiring is not correct. See photos.[/size][/b]

What's the smaller "black" wire on the starter cable post going ? Battery cable to starter switch should and does have the main (yellow) switch feed wire - opposite post on switch goes to starter.

Where's the yellow wire hooked to ?????

Welded contacts is a common design problem with high-tension switches.
That's why they have strong springs.

greenacres36 wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 09, 2021 4:44 pm

Just bought a new starter switch from a reputable supplier. It was junk from the get-go. Started the car a couple times and then the top popped off and the starter started running continuously. Had to take the battery cable off the starter. I did the same thing by altering the new bracket to fit a tractor starter switch. Maybe better results but if anything else easier to source.

Not sure what your "tractor switch" looks like the one mentioned above but here is a side by side to the one suppliers sell ,less the Model T mounting Bracket

SurveyKing wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 10, 2021 12:36 pm

I just connected up my starter switch to test and it started smoking after about 5 seconds. Starter turned over but slower than it should. I am wondering if my switch is bad or if my wiring is not correct. See photos.Starter switch.jpgStarter switch wiring (2).jpg

Like everyone is asking what is connected to what - no assumptions. There are some extra wires connected to the switch

That's the correct way, Daniel. Appears to be an original switch - most likely the insulators both internal & external causing issues. Those type with the "bend over tabs" don't let you get away with multiple openings so you might bend them up easy & just enough to disassemble for inspection then anneal the tabs prior to bending them back over.

I have an original with the bent over tabs, three of which were broken off. I rebuilt the insulation around the terminals, cleaned up the contacts and bridge on the plunger, and clamped it together. I light touch with a mig welder now holds it together where the three broken tabs were. rescuing good original is way better than the junk replacements.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

Some of my cars don't have electric starters but the ones that do I add a 6 volt solenoid. New or old I only use the foot switch to provide the low amp voltage to the solenoid, Mount the solenoid inside the frame and it is not particularly visible and only you will know as everything will operate as original. Plus, you will get better voltage to starter. Best to find an auto parts that can make cables for you. Don't use small available 12 volt cables. Unless you have gone 12 volt. With good large cables 12 volt not normally necessary.

Bought a new switch for mine, and it started smoking after a couple starts. Pried back the tabs with a screw driver and found that the thin contacts arcked. just finished rebuilding an original.