MTFCA Forum

What are some experiences y'all have had opening old locks?

I suppose that, at least initially, I'd try a little more finesse than Dan (it ekes out the fun!), what sort of lock is it you're wanting to have a go at?

Dan left out the real fun one, an oxy-acetylene torch with a small cutting head. Never had a problem with it not going through whatever hardened steel the shank was made of...

On old warded kocks I've made blanks of the approximate size of the key (slot and depth), coated it with Dykem and used a file to cut out the slots for the lock wards...

The stage robbers on Gunsmoke use a six gun... Bill

When I was in the Marines (1972-1977), from 1975 to 1977, I was assigned to MSG duty (Marine Security Guard), better known as Embassy Duty. We guarded American Embassies around the world. I was in Karachi, Pakistan for a year, then Canberra, Australia. Marines on this duty were on loan to the State Department for the duration of the duty, which was two years. Marine Guards attended 8 weeks of training in Arlington Virginia that was somewhat akin to the type of specialized training one sees in James Bond movies taught by the FBI, CIA and Secret Service to acquaint us with the various situation we might encounter, such as mob control, locating listening devices (bugs), evasive driving to deter kidnapping, the use of all types of weapons, specialized hand to hand combat and how to conduct ourselves at a diplomatic party. One of the classes was taught by a lock expert on how to pick various locks and how to open a safe. The expert had specialized tools like the ones shown in the attached photo, but he was also able to open a lock using several bent paper clips. I’m sure this is what you mean by your question. You can find these lock picking tools and videos online, if you are serious about learning to do it. While I never did it myself, I know it can be done with the right tools and practice. Jim Patrick

PS. You can also call a locksmith.

I have an almost identical set!

The second to far left tool and the second to far right tool seem to be the most helpful.

Thank you Jonah. The enthusiasm you bring to the Model T hobby is welcome and refreshing. You are the future. Keep up the good work. SemperFi. Jim Patrick

Not wanting to contribute to too much thread drift here, but apropos Jim's comment I'm reminded of when we had some fairly devastating earthquakes here and it was the job of various groups to attempt access to every building in town in order to determine if there were people trapped etc...

It turned out that, at the top floor of one very damaged building, the penthouse resident had installed a secondhand security door from when the American embassy had done a refit. Well all the usual tools, including a substantial ram, clearly hadn't worked and so that floor + door was left alone (damaged but intact) - until some cunning people came along and simply knocked through the plasterboard alongside the door and gained access in a few seconds

Anyway, Jonah, it looks as if you have the tools you need - FWIW I consider something like the 3rd from left (top) the most universally useful, but as it's more of an art than a science I guess it's whatever works for you!

I will try that one more often!

Check out some of the lock picking videos on YouTube.

Lock picking 101 on YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mO3mMYwKkKs
More of the same
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTZddvAws9M
There must be 20+ videos on How to pick a lock

Part of my job as a maintenance mechanic at the college I retired from was a locksmith.
Jonah your right about the tool that’s 2nd from the left in the lock picking kit.
That tool I used as a rake to rake the lock pins back and forth while I applied tension on the lock clockwise as I raked the pins. On the bottom right of the pick kit picture that Jim posted there are tension bars shown. Use one of those to apply tension clockwise.
That method would usually open common locks that’s used on tool boxes, file and desk drawers.

Thanks! What is the difference with house door nobs locks?

Here is a video explaining house locks https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIboCppTrBs
This shows several types including one similar to a Model T Ignition https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTZddvAws9M

You ask interesting questions, Jonah. Jim Patrick

Jonah,
With house door locks, easiest to use a "bump key". Can buy online.

I have picked locks successfully with paper clips.

I beleive it, i will be trying that soon.

Is there any springs in the model t ignition lock?

Jonah, I don't remember there being any springs.

The are no springs in the ignition lock. If you intended to disassemble and ignition switch you need to be careful how you take it apart. Besides the distinctive front plat there are two common ways the fiber disk ( that the wiring connects to) is held in place - bent tabs or pins to twist off. Unless its a special one the internals parts are the same. Now to remove the tumbler -- all depends on how it was made. Most tumbler bodies were made with pot metal that just failed over time. If yours is solid there is a good chance that the pins will fall out as your trying to remove it and they need to be relocated - right side up in their original position. They look like small rectangles. But the big cation is in removing the parts without damaging them. The fiber part that fits inside the metal enclosure is a tight fit to the end of the tumbler which is insert from the outside. I didn't include the shield that goes around the tumbler in some configurations it needs to be removed from the metal enclosure and in others it doesn't. So if you intend to take the the switch apart and reach a point where things aren't coming apart - stop and post a picture of the problem

I found that although my key will still open my lock, the lock Barrel will still turn with a screwdriver stuck 1/16 of an inch into it.

Jonah D'Avella wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 13, 2021 4:27 pm

I found that although my key will still open my lock, the lock Barrel will still turn with a screwdriver stuck 1/16 of an inch into it.

Could be that the pins are rusted open. Spray a little anti-rust (WD-40, Blaster PB whatever you have ) in the lock and work the key only - don't force anything and you don't want to saturate the fiber parts

Tumblers work by gravity. Tumblers normally hang down into the lock housing, locking the lock barrel in place. When key is inserted it lifts the tumblers up as the key goes in. If the correct key is used, upper and lower ends are lined up with interior diameter of the barrel housing, allowing the lock to turn within the housing. If you take the lock apart, it is very important you keep track of the position of each tumbler. If you put them in the wrong order, or upside down, the configuration will totally change and your key will not work. Jim Patrick

Jonah. If you don’t have a key for your ignition and are trying to get your ignition to turn, new keys are available. There is a number stamped on the front of the ignition barrel that corresponds with the number of the key that will fit your ignition. You can get original keys on eBay or new keys from one of the parts suppliers. Jim Patrick

I currently have 5 keys that fit my ignition, they will slide in and out frely and are lockecd in when turned to mag or bat. it seems like the tumblers do not catch the outside like they should and just bounce over the bumps.

If the numbers on the keys are different or not and you are able to turn to mag or bat it is likely that the pins are rusted in place. Lets say a key was in the lock and the tumbler get wet and the pins were rusted in an open position. You could remove the key because its brass. Several keys would work as well as a screw driver to turn it to mag or bat

Jonah. Do any of the numbers of your keys match the number stamped into the front of the lock barrel? If not, you need to get one that matches. If the sliding tumblers are corroded and will not slide in their slots, perhaps a little catalyst, such as Blaster, sprayed into the lock will free them up. Jim Patrick

Jonah D'Avella wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 13, 2021 4:27 pm

I found that although my key will still open my lock, the lock Barrel will still turn with a screwdriver stuck 1/16 of an inch into it.

So you have at least one key that will open the lock. The key should be "locked in" when turned to mag or bat so it doesn't fall out. A correct number key isn't the current problem if you can turn all the way to mag / bat. Once you correct the rusted pins you should need a correct key. Original Model T ignition tumblers are rather simple. The numbers on the keys range from 52 and 74, and these numbered keys were used between the years 1919 and 1927