MTFCA Forum

You'll notice that there is only one pedal on this assembly, because it is the only pedal that is captive to the Hogshead. The other two would be added later when the bands are there to secure them, otherwise they sort of get in the way of trying to seat the Hogshead. I cut portions out of the housing to better show the placement of the interior parts, notably the Clutch Pedal Shaft Support Cam and the bolt that holds it onto the housing.
The only Hogshead assembly where the 2 pedals (Brake and Reverse) are captive to the assembly is on the RHD cars, the Clutch (Hi/Lo) is added later (like when you're fitting the Hogshead to the pan), since it doesn't have that interior "notch" to hold it to the housing, whereas the other two do. I suppose they had to do it that way because of clearance issues on the right side of the car (because the exhaust pipe and fuel line still travel along that side).

Clutch Forks 3406 and 3407 are noted as being Right and Left (respectively) up until 1912, from 1913-1927 there was only 3406 which was used for both sides. Now as far as I know no vendor carries these nor the "U" shaped coupling unless they're NOS parts (actual part number for the "U" coupling 3400, but Lang's lists it as 3400U).

The other thing that sets this assembly apart is that on the 1913-1917 the housing itself has corner gussets but otherwise they're exactly the same.

Martynn, somewhere in the time line the two clutch forks underwent a change. earlier examples were held in place with a pinch bolt and key on the shaft. Later, they were simply pinned/riveted onto the shaft. Others may be able to pinpoint the change date. Perhaps it was earlier than this.

Allan from down under.

Allan's onto something there, parts book shows the change to the pin mount of the release fork in 1913.

Allan, you are correct that they are a "pinch bolt" type. What I'm wondering is, do you think that the shaft that the forks are held to is slotted so that the bolt acts like a key to keep the forks in alignment? Because I don't find any mention of any kind of a key on those forks anywhere. And I've also noticed that the "U" is slightly different as well, it's a bit broader on the OD than later cars. It is hard to tell from the b/w's in the Ford parts catalog, the "U" I know is bronze, but also appears to be babbit coated as well (there is another circular line that I can't account for and since it is irregularly shaped I'm thinking that is a coating of some sort, most likely babbit because of it's color).

Kerry, I looked it up after reading your post and realized my mistake, now to get some details on these forks, the "U" (4100) and the shaft, they are all different from what I've drawn, which is basically the 1913-1927 style (although I think 1926-1927 is slightly different also).

Thanks guys for pointing this out...this is why I post here, best damned group of drawing accuracy checkers I've ever worked with!

Going on memory, hazy at times, and some mechanical knowledge, mis-applied at times, there were key slots in the arms and keyways on the shaft, to accept a small key.
Relying on a pinch bolt and a groove in the shaft is not going to cut the mustard. It works to hold the piston pin in place because there it is to stop lateral movement of the pin. Rotational movement requires a more precise fit. The keys will do this, as will splined shafts. I am reminded of the splined shafts at the back of Morris Minis on the gear selection rods. If the bolts on the clamped on fittings got loose, two gears could not be selected because of movement in the couplings on the shaft.

Allan from down under.

Allan, you're correct, when I plotted out the location of these screws on the arms, the holes don't come anywhere close to the shaft, sooo, no grooves then. That would mean that this key, is below the pinch bolt under the shaft. It's the only place with enough meat on it to allow for such a thing, unless it is somewhere to either side of the pinch bolt on the inner side of the shaft hole or on the outer end. Do you have any idea where it would be located?

Again, from memory, the keyway in the arms is opposite the split in the arms. That would mean the corresponding keyway in the cross shaft would be on the under side. I no longer have access to the hogshead which had this set-up, so I cannot check for you.

Allan from down under.

Allan after some research, I found those keys and pictures of the shaft too, they are woodruff keys (3408), 2 of them slotted into the bottom of the shaft (3402) which is longer than the one I had originally drawn too, since it sticks through to the other side of the hogshead housing. The flats of the keys fitted into the bottom of the shaft hole on the arms (the distance I'm not quite sure of though, which is why I made them long). The pinch bolt (3409) is a 3/8 x 13/16” x 24 T.P.I. hex head bolt and it is kept from loosening by lockwire (3410) threaded through their heads.

Thanks Martynn, that's reassuring. My memory has not left me yet!

Allan from down under.

Martynn, I just re-read your last post, and I think your description has the keys the wrong way round. The round base on the woodruff key goes to the shaft I believe. That would also make machining the keyway in the forks a little easier.

Allan from down under.

Allan, that's the way I've got them shown, the round part of the key goes into the bottom of the shaft, the square flat part goes into the hole in the bottom of the arm....just the length of that groove is what I don't know, so I made it so it could be slid on or off from either side of the arm.

Notice 3408, there are 2 of them that fit into the bottom of the shaft, to where their flat side fits into the bottom of the hole in the arms.

Gotcha! My reading skills don't match my memory. The keyways in the arms do go straight through. I remember the one I was working on had been loose and I had to hand file a new custom fit woodruff key to one side.

Allan from down under.

Allan, I'm gonna need some good pictures of RHD versions of the Hogshead, got any?

I have hogsheads, a smartphone with camera, can take photos, but can't get them to download onto a post. Perhaps they could be emailed directly to you.

Allan from down under.

Allan, yes! I sent you a PM with my email address.

I'm a little late to the party, however here are pics showing the high speed shaft and yoke assembly on my 1911-12 hogshead. Note the brass yoke has on oil groove - at least that's what I'm guessing it is.

Rich C.

Rich, ahhh that's what that is an oil groove. I thought it was some sort of plating on the bronze bearing...ok, makes more sense than plating a bronze bearing with babbit.

Ok, I'll make that look more like a groove than a flash coating, thanks Rich!