MTFCA Forum

That is some very nice work Shane!

Been following this build thread since you started.

It's brilliant. Thanks for posting all the photos.

Thanks guys! I appreciate the kind words and am happy to document the progress so others can enjoy it along the way. I know I searched for other builds when I first started and there were very few documented, so hopefully someone else wishing to build one can reference this thread for at least something.

Congratulations!
I looked in today and thought "When I grow up, I want a shop like that."
Reference back to July 10th, 1:35 & 1:48, Rich and Dallas. Right there with you guys!
Shop is way too cool Shane, should be illegal or something.
"...someone else......can reference this thread for at least something.". Shane: Inspiration, information, ideas, shapes/forms and more inspiration!
I've seen lots of OTold tractorsOT equipped with the two lever Splitdorf. Handy timing hook-ups. Should be a good mag.
Wish I had seen this thread a LONG time ago. My IH flat-bed speedster was supposed to look like a Miller racer from the 20's.
Kinda like your car reminds me of.
That car is cool and a Gemsa etc equipped unit-power plant. Zoom!

Shane what fantastic build besides the motor new addition arrived yet

Outstanding! I hereby nominate this as the first project to be posted in a new section for build threads!

Cheers, Bill

Hi Shane, How are thing going? Making any new progress? Eric's and Roberts new car sure looks great!

Hi John!

I've been working on getting all the engine components tip top. I rebuilt the carbs and finally got them so they don't leak. The accelerator pump wells were pitted so everything was binding up. I ball honed them then hit them with a brass wire brush in a drill to polish them up.

I'm also waiting on a mag to be rebuilt by Mark's Magnetos in Colchester, Connecticut. It's supposed to be done by the end of this week.

Hopefully next weekend I can post a video of it running properly. She fired up but the ~95 year old magneto gave up the ghost while trying to tune everything in.

Then it's off to the radiator shop to get new inlet and outlets installed on the whippet, as I'm just temporarily running a stock t rad to get it going.

Once this is all complete, I will do a final mock up, tear down, and finish work.

I have a newborn baby girl so she's been absorbing a lot of my time

Beautiful baby girl. Yes you need to let her absorb you. Looks like a very nice engine set up. Is it in good shape? Looking forward to updates. Thanks

Congratulations on another successful project! Not you, Mom, she did all the work on this build. Frank

Thanks guys! John, the engine looks very healthy from what I can tell thus far. Peering in through the inspection plates and spark plug wells, it looks new. Nice crosshatching on the cylinder walls and everything is clean. It will need a low drum though as it is burnt out and undersized. We shall see when I tear it down to go over it this winter. Rob suspected it hadn't been run much at all.

What a fantastic project, impressive self taught skills and a good eye for what looks right. And.. congratulations on your new arrival

Hey!? Everyone needs a copilot for the endurance runs!

NIce job love the intake.I would get it running drive it for couple years then paint it posssibly, things change

The wife's parents watched the baby for a couple of nights this week so I got to sneak in the garage. While waiting on a rebuilt magneto to come, I worked on the hood shelves and straps. The shelves are sheet metal with a 1/2" oak insert made to fit snug. I drilled holes for #10 screws, then countersunk the holes in the back to accept nuts. The nuts had a press fit into the wood so that works nicely for tightening the footman loops for the hood straps. I then made some mounting holes and bolted them up. Always grind those ugly manufacturing markings off your modern hardware . I also found a nice radiator cap and motometer for a good price you can see in the last photo.

Earlier this month, I worked on mapping out my dashboard. I'm still searching for a suitable tachometer and speedometer. If anyone has a cool jones-motorola, johns-manville, Corbin, or the like gauge to sell I'd be interested! Ive been scouring for pieces which will look the part. Eventually I will make an aluminum overlay for the dash.

I was able to fire up the engine but spark got super weak due to a dying magneto. Therefore, I made a call to Mark's Magnetos in Connecticut. He whipped up a fresh Bosch ZR4 for me in a few weeks time and it arrived yesterday. I just finished making some new plug wires for this mag and hope to get it running tomorrow some time.

Man, that thing is cool! Now I want a speedster . THANKS SHANE! THANKS ALOT!

Dallas, I have plenty of parts while they last!

Shane, Looking Awesome young man!

Hank

What an amazing set of skills you have adopted and mastered, Shane. You have created a truly impressive vehicle.

Many thanks for sharing this adventure with those of us watching in admiration and amazement.

Shane,
I'm coming into this thread late in the game but holy cow. You really jumped in head first, very impressive. Totally cool that you and Robert hooked up and you got one of his monster motors. I've spent many days up with Erik and Robert at the Rumble Seat Garage and their knowledge and generously know no bounds. If you ever get out her to CA, pay a visit it that shop. It's a walk back in time and really fun. The hardest part is taking it all in!

AdminJeff

Shane. Your workmanship is excellent . Enjoying the progress report. Cheers pete

Thank you as always guys! Jeff, one day down the road I hope to make it out to their shop to visit. Rob wants to give me the tour around the area and such. It'll happen one day!

Hit a milestone yesterday around noon. I got this thing to fire up! It needs some tinkering timing and fuel wise but that can come once I do final assembly. No use dialing everything in just to take it apart and have to do it all again.

Here's a video the wife took. Disregard the tinny sound of the fan hitting the radiator outlet.

https://youtu.be/R6mMzpYjMMA

“Look at that smile!” A perfect vote of support from your wife.

The car sounds awesome. You’ve done a great job!

Eric

That was fantastic!! great job

I know that feeling and that smile all too well! Nothing like it!

Jeff

I'm one of those who constantly looks at this thread but rarely comments. Although I'm a good all-around mechanic, I lack the skills that you and a lot of these other guys have and I don't feel qualified to say much other than "nice work" occasionally. Once I retire (about 7 years from now) from my career that often keeps me busy 80 hours a week, I'm going to learn to weld/fabricate/hammer metal.

However, I thoroughly enjoy watching you make progress on this neat car. Thanks for taking the time to post the photos.

And...congrats on your little one. My "little girl" is 23, just out of college and just landed her first professional job. Seems like she was a little sugar-bean like yours, only yesterday.

Fantastic you folks!
Ooh wee! That is one naughty T engine.
Shane, your lady is a perfect "partner in crime". Carry on!

RustyFords wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 12, 2019 2:17 pm

I'm one of those who constantly looks at this thread but rarely comments. Although I'm a good all-around mechanic, I lack the skills that you and a lot of these other guys have and I don't feel qualified to say much other than "nice work" occasionally. Once I retire (about 7 years from now) from my career that often keeps me busy 80 hours a week, I'm going to learn to weld/fabricate/hammer metal.

However, I thoroughly enjoy watching you make progress on this neat car. Thanks for taking the time to post the photos.

And...congrats on your little one. My "little girl" is 23, just out of college and just landed her first professional job. Seems like she was a little sugar-bean like yours, only yesterday.

Thanks Don. Coming into this project I had never welded, shaped sheet metal, or built anything like this. It takes more research and planning than anything. If you don't like the way you did something now, you definitely wont like it later. So I make sure I am completely satisfied with my results before I move on.

Many times I sat there wondering if I bit off more than I can chew. The longer I sat the more and more I would think am I ever going to finish this? I still do it. But just diving in and attacking it head on seems to help when I'm in that mindset.

There are also days where I'll drink a beer just staring at the car. Theorizing and such. Those days are super crucial to the end result I feel. Make a plan and just execute it.

If I can do what I have thus far, I feel anyone can. It just takes a lot of planning, studying photos and such, and the guts to dive on in and give it a shot. I'm looking forward to seeing what you build!

Shane Lach wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 13, 2019 8:13 am

There are also days where I'll drink a beer just staring at the car. Theorizing and such. Those days are super crucial to the end result I feel

I couldn’t agree more. I do that as well.

I’d rather do that, and finally have the epiphany moment and get it right than hurry a process and get it wrong.

Some of those photos are masterpieces in themselves. The raw steel against the rock walls and the colors of the vintage components certainly add to the clever craftsmanship. This is truly inspiration to all of us who like to build or would like to.
And what a lucky child to grow up in a home where such wondrous things happen.
Best wishes and thanks so much for sharing this.
Rich

Hey y'all. Time for another update. Nothing wild but I've been beginning to drill the body for rivets. I bought a river fan which I will show. This tool is super simple yet really useful. It makes your rivets straight and even.
Once I mapped out where the body will be riveted with this tool, I used clecos to secure the body temporarily. Here's the other side.
Below is the tail finishing panel clecod on. I will be using drilled bolts and nuts, or possibly rivnut the body then drilled bolt and safety wire. Inspired by the old Bugatti type 35.

I also got a new hood ornament.

That is one sweet hood ornament!!!

I dug into my sheet of .090 aluminum. This will be used for the firewall, dash, and other things. Here's the first endeavor.

I wanted to add an aluminum air deflector inspired by some of the old Miller cars.

Beginning with some cardboard, I trimmed until I got close to the desired shape.
I then swapped to sheet steel. I wanted to see how it would act and form, without wasting aluminum.
Cut well outside my template line then trimmed to satisfaction.

Onto the aluminum. With all precautions taken not to spend more money than necessary lol.
That's it for now.

Oh and I also got this sweet oil fill extension from Tim Morsher! Thanks Tim! I appreciate all you guys who put forth the effort to have cool parts like this made

WOW Shane, You have been making progress. The crumb cruncher is a special touch. I am sure, like me, you have done many hours of barn flying. Thanks for sharing and Happy Thanks Giving.

Looking good.

I especially like the body contour in the cowl area.

Wow! Wow! Wow! And WOW!

Update time!

Over the past few months I fixed up a model a rear axle, fit a tapered leaf rear spring, remade the firewall and dash, and for some new tires and tubes mounted up on some 32 Ford wire wheels I blasted and refinished.
Here's the Model A rear axle sitting in the frame. Unfortunately this and future transmission plans changes up my radius rod, sideskirt, and rod mount design. But it's just another hurdle in this long battle. The spring perches are wider for the model a spring so I cut them down to T spring width and used t shackles.

Rebuilt some model a backing plates.
The double shoes of the A brakes will allow me to use 2 separate brake handles. One for parking and one for service brakes.

Here's the chassis with the new tires mounted up. The fronts were shorter height wise than advertised so I was a bit down about that but otherwise happy with how it's sitting.

Onto the firewall redesign. I wasn't happy with the sheetmetal where it met the firewall, and also didn't like the wood of the firewall, dash, and supports. Time to undo everything again. I need to step back at the end of this and be completely satisfied with all of my decisions.

I started by disassembling the wood structure. Then formed a wire rod the shape of the firewall opening. Once done, I made and welded 6 tabs to the rod. I trimmed the sheet metal where the tabs met the body and rolled the sheet over the rod encapsulating the tabbed rod.

[attachment=2]IMG_20200111_112242.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=1]00100lrPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20200111120432931_COVER.jpg[/attachment]

Then made the firewall out of aluminum.

[attachment=0]00100lrPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20200111130305343_COVER.jpg[/attachment]

LOVE the updates and the car.

Keep 'em coming!

Onto the firewall redesign. I wasn't happy with the sheetmetal where it met the firewall, and also didn't like the wood of the firewall, dash, and supports. Time to undo everything again. I need to step back at the end of this and be completely satisfied with all of my decisions.

I started by disassembling the wood structure. Then formed a wire rod the shape of the firewall opening. Once done, I made and welded 6 tabs to the rod. I trimmed the sheet metal where the tabs met the body and rolled the sheet over the rod encapsulating the tabbed rod seen mid process below.

[attachment=3]IMG_20200111_112242.jpg[/attachment]

I then made the firewall out of aluminum once I finished rolling the sheet metal.

[attachment=2]IMG_20200112_132453.jpg[/attachment]

As you can see I was in the process of making a new hood former.

[attachment=1]IMG_20200112_135259.jpg[/attachment]

I then worked on making a wire form the shape of the dash and attached it to another wire form I made in the shape of the firewall on the inside. This form sandwiches the aluminum firewall with screws passing through both sets of tabs and the firewall itself.

[attachment=0]IMG_20200115_174221.jpg[/attachment]

I don't know why my attachments keep getting out of order but I apologise.

Here's the hood sitting on the hood former.
This is the dash wire form I made. The dash will secure to this.
Cut holes and fit all my goodies.

I plopped the body on the frame again to see how everything fit. I'll have to cove out the firewall a half inch or so to clear the back of the engine but much better than it was!
Best feeling staring at this thing.

Nice ,excellent workmanship

Great stuff, Thanks Shane for sharing. Can't wait to see and hear it run. Two good looking girls there.

John - Fascinating thread to follow;.....what a beautiful speedster you're building! Very interested in how you're going to connect the Model A rear end up to the auxiliary transmission ??? You've done a great job with nice photos and verbal explanations of your work, and I'm sure you'll continue that until completion, however, I'm especially interested in the drive train. I can't help thinking of the kit that's available nowadays to convert the Model A rear end torque tube setup to an open driveline. Is that perhaps a consideration? Again,....please show photos and verbal details however you decide to complete the driveline set-up,.....thanx,.....harold

Ooops,...SHANE! Not "John"! Sorry,...guess I shouldn't "post" when it's late & I'm tired,...harold

Hey Harold. The current plan is to aquire a Frontenac oil pan and transmission adapter which deletes the model t transmission and converts to model a. That should simplify the driveline conversion. I'll save the Sherman oil pan, t pan clearanced for the model a crank, vw oil pump, Watford, shortened t driveshaft and rear end, and t transmission for a future project. I'm thinking a totally period correct bobtail or something with a proper period power train.

Wow...that was an expensive bit of kit back in the day.

Unfortunately I can't get my hands on one. They're all on engines or the ones that are sitting on shelves the owners don't want to get rid of.

Shane - WOW! That speedster of yours is certainly going to be "unique" and "one-of-a-kind" for sure! Yes,....I would think that those two "Fronty" components are going to present two "challenges" for sure! One being just in locating them, and two,....the price!

Again, I have to say that your speedster project is one of the most interesting threads I've ever followed on the forum, and I've been a regular forum subscriber for many years,......harold

Thanks Harold! I'm glad you guys enjoy it and I'm happy to share my trials and tribulations. There isn't much out there in terms of speedster build threads so I'd like to put some info out there for others.

I began working on the brake system recently. I chopped up a couple brake cross shafts and some 3/4 rod. I extended the shaft a few inches in each direction, beveled, and welded them up. I removed the pawl for the t transmission, slid on some brackets to mount it to the frame, and added the brake rod levers. I used some brackets with bronze bushings and a ruckstell shifter out of my Tudor that the previous owner had made. Before installing the levers I added some lock collars to the shaft so it remains centered on the vehicle.
Mocking up placement
It sits perfectly in reach when in the car fit to me.
Brake rods made
The forward most handle will be for parking brakes, and the rear will be for service brakes.

I will be adding another pickup point on the cross shaft and connecting it to a brake pedal. That way I have the option to use my foot or hand to slow the vehicle. I really like the outboard brake handles on the old racers but wanted the convenience of a foot operated brake as well.

Here is a design fora relocated outboard hand brake

Hello Shane:
Not to get the cart before the horse....curious what the "radiator to motor" hose configuration will look like?
Regards,
Scott

Hey Scott. Once the engine is rebuilt and in the car, I will be blocking off the top tank fitting and adding one to the bottom of the top tank. I took photos of Mike Benders bob tail racer and this is the way he did it. I will share the photos in a moment.

Very nice Shane.

I too am working on trying to put an "A" trans behind a T Engine. I'll never have enough funds to own a Fronty pan, so I'll just build a similar one.

My big issue is figuring out the sealing for the rear main so oil wont get into the clutch. So far in a couple months of research the answers I have been getting are vague and being told that it's expensive to do. I'm a pretty innovative dude, but lack machining capabilities. Damn it I will find a way if no one wants to really help me.....it's like some secret circle club or something I'm guessing.....

Chad I came to the same conclusion. Information is so tough to find on this stuff. Kind of why I want to share what I'm doing so there's something out there. One way I figured was make a seal holder and run it on the rear crank flange. Dan Mceachern also makes a 2 piece seal holder as well so you may want to ask him.

I did have a phone call with Dan. His seal holder is made for an "A" crank in a T block using the A transmission....which I'm also building beside the T crank / T block engine. It is also expensive, and I made a verbal commitment for one, he said a couple of months to get some cast up.

He said he is attempting to locate pictures off another computer, because they will be worth a thousand words. But he also sounded really busy too. I'm still hopeful.


But that still leaves the T crank to seal up. Yes it seems to run a seal off the thin crank flange might be the answer. And that my not be impossible to do. I have made measurements off the face of the crank flange to the rear block face of both A engines and T engines.....those measurements are like gold to get the flywheel-housing and flywheel/ring gear back in the correct position. I have some thoughts on the whole thing, but as mentioned lack machining capabilities so it's hard for me to put ideas into practice.

I have been posting some progress on the HAMB with pictures if your interested in taking a look there.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thr ... b.1122709/

If you are running a stock length crank, you will need to make a spacer between the crank and flywheel I would think to get everything in the right place. With that added thickness, you may be able to polish that spacer surface and run you seal on that which would be easier than the flange.

According to my measurements, because I don't want to confuse anyone, yes, if using a stock T crank, yes, you need a spacer on the end of the crank before the flywheel goes on.

If using a stock length A crank (which has a surface for a seal to ride already), the flywheel housing needs to be spaced away from the T block to get everything in the correct position. That's also where Dan McEachren's seal holder comes into play.

Both of those two things are the easy part.

Shane, sent you a email with my personal contact info.

Do not forget the transmission pilot bushing!

Hank

Henry K. Lee wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 27, 2020 7:35 pm

Do not forget the transmission pilot bushing!

Hank

It's already in the flywheel....can't really forget it....

Target aquired. Thanks Dan! Now that that hurdle is over, I will be purchasing a balanced full length A crank and sending my block out to Mike Bender for some Babbitt and crack repair. I can't wait for final assembly!

Holy cats! The holy grail!

Wow...that is a cool piece.

Cooling fins and everything....so neat.

Well I tossed a spare block on the pan and began mock up. I used some 1/4" plate bent and braced/welded for the flywheel housing mounts. I drilled a half inch hole through the housing ears and the new mounts, added some rubber washers to insulate it, and used a lock but so I can leave the bolt a little loose so the ears don't sustain damage due to frame flex. Everything will be riveted to the frame soon instead of the bolts seen.

Mounts are done and my clings adapter came in. I'm installing a 39 Ford transmission on this thing for the best pre-war driveline I could come up with. I will be running a turned down model a flywheel and a 9" V8 clutch/pressure plate setup. I just shortened the torque tube today and got that all mounted so now I can move onto the rear radius rods.
Here's the transmission mounted up to the clings adapter mounted up to the fronty pan. What a money sucking contraption.
Torque tube bolted up. Just have to shorten the driveshaft and then I can do a final rear end assembly/set backlash.
And there's the torque tube mocked up.

Great build shane ! aren't you afraid to hit that unobtainium pan on a speedbump

I'm a little nervous but I have some experience driving silly low cars so this has much more ground clearance than I'm used to. I built a drift car and have done that for about 10 years. Here's some photos from a track day last year.

Very cool Shane. I'm also one who appreciates nearly all iterations of the automotive hobby.

I would not try that on clincher tyres

I got the pedals all mounted up this weekend. I used model a pedals bent and cut then welded to get them to sit where I need them. I'm happy with how they turned out. Just enough clearance to press the clutch and brake.
I'll make some floor boards tomorrow.

Update time!

I rolled the car outside to take a photo for my monthly motivation a while back
I made a floor board and mounted my throttle pedal to the firewall. I used a sheet of aluminum that I used for the firewall and other doodads.
As a side note, I've been driving the Tudor as much as possible. It's great with the reduction in traffic lately.

I then made a toggle lever to weld to the hand operated service brake cross shaft. I will make a rod to link this to the foot brake. That way I can use the foot brake for practicality, or hand brake for the true racer feel.

I drilled multiple clevis pin points for more or less brake pedal travel/leverage.

I ended up somewhat reworking my steering box mount. I had modified it to clear the starter, but now with the fronty pan the starter is in a different location. So I remade the bottom portion and officially bolted it to the frame. Then we move back to the rear end. I needed to mount my Hartford shocks somehow. They're a bit long so I didn't have many options. I'd like a shorter pair but they're not easy to aquire. I cleaned them up a bit but left them crusty for the look.
First side down Unfortunately this left me with not much room for a taillight. I had to get creative.
I made this strap and welded a round bar to it to stop the springyness. I mounted my 26-27 accessory stop light to it with the license plate mount.
She's starting to get the complete look now. Can't wait for a big slash cut stainless exhaust. Something obnoxious like 4".

Shane,

You have done yourself PROUD! Very nice workmanship, you will grow on this experience and mentor others!

Your Redneck Friend Down Yonder!,

Hank

This has been one of my favorite threads. Having built a Speedster and 2 racers I can enjoy the whole design and ingenuity going into this. The photos are well done and show great detail.
And then there is the cute baby.
But even more than that is the delightful workshop of brick and rock with such warm and rustic features.
I visited here today to get some of that awesome feeling for some painting details.
What a treat this has been.
Thanks for all of this.
Rich

Thanks you two. I really appreciate it. As always, glad y'all enjoy the documentation of the project. It's getting closer and closer every day. The engine block has been sent out to Mike Bender and I'm hoping he can work some Babbitt magic. There are also a couple freeze cracks he's going to take care of as well.

Progress has been slow lately. Tackling much needed home maintenance. I did however have some time to tackle a steering wheel project. I had a cracking issue with the Neville so unfortunately I think it's unusable. Therefore I bought another wheel and decided to make my own wood rim. I decided on cherry with a walnut 1/8" laminate down the center. First I built myself a router table out of some melamine as it's pretty flat and smooth.
Then I cut down my cherry into equal parts at 30* angles to make a hexagon.
Then made a center point and a compass essentially. Traced my wheel and dimensions onto the wood and made a rough cut with a jigsaw. Don't try to take more than 1/8" off it you'll tear out the grain on the router.
I routed out an 1/8" pocket for the wheel to sit in. Another hexagon will be made and epoxied to the back sealing everything together.
Chisel out the spoke areas so the wheel sits in the rim and here we are!
I had made a back half but destroyed it on the router table. I ordered more lumber and hope to wrap up this project this week.

Also, Mike Bender has my engine for Babbitt and crank fitting currently. After that the powerplant will be completely refreshed and ready to run for good this time.

Hi Shane, Hope you and yours are well. Your thread needs to be brought back up to the top. Anything going on,progress? You know the Lincoln Nebraska Speed way reunion and hill climb is this year. Looking like you could make it??

Hey John. I shipped the engine block out last April and have not received it back unfortunately. It has been very slow going getting it re-poured. The goal was to have it done and raced at Lincoln this year but it doesn't seem like I am going to hit that goal. Pretty disappointed honestly. Haven't touched the car in like 9 months. I need the engine back to button stuff up and do some test miles to ensure everything is going to be ok where it is.

Mike should understand the need. Hopfull things will turn around. In 19, I only had about 150 Miles on the engine and most of that was on the tour before we raced. Ron Kelly was the one that made it happen in such a short time because he understood the need. Litterly put the car together on Monday and left Wednesday. I wanted to bring your build back to the top because of new interest in building and to encourage you some. I am hoping to make Lincoln this year also.

Mr. Bender has the block currently. There has been a handful of snags here and there but as of a couple months ago everything should be squared away in terms of issues. I am actually building a new shop and am hoping to tackle this thing head first once it rolls in there. The foundation is poured and awaiting backfill and framing. 32'x42' 3 bay shop behind my house. That should give me some well needed room as I have been tripping over stuff lately.

I did however purchase William Harper's runabout last year and did a quick gowjob build.
As purchased
3" drop axle, Chevrolet front hubs, 19" wire wheels, chopped and raked windshield, steering column drop, gas tank relocation to turtle deck, seat lowered
Rear axle rebuild, flipped housings, second rear crossmember added and spring moved ahead, torque tube shortened, aluminum over under Warford installed. Custom Chevrolet spacers added to clear Rockies.

That's Nice too! Touch base with Mike, He may need someone to race against.

Who is the “gentleman” who made your tank?

He could be in big demand these days!

Billy Gilliland made my fuel tank. Unfortunately he passed away last year.

Darn, saw this pop up and was hoping there might be an update.....but I guess some would say the same about mine.

Sometimes building a entire car just has some enormous undertakings to it.

I can’t wait to finally start making progress on mine and also visit Shane. And also visit you! Hopefully we are all in for a great year building our cars and hanging out. Don’t even care if the events come back! Just want to have some kind of life back!

Here's a photo of some metal work. Im shaping this patch for Chads gowjob project.

Shane Lach wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 18, 2021 12:22 pm

PXL_20210217_231012307.jpg
Here's a photo of some metal work. Im shaping this patch for Chads gowjob project.

Nice!