MTFCA Forum

Attached are 3 photos of the sediment bulb on my 1927 coupe. How do I remove it.

Unscrew it counter-clockwise......

What I meant was, Help Needed because it is "frozen" and won't turn.

Review your post, “Gas cap, still can’t get it off”. Just about every possible suggestion on freeing up frozen threads was proposed in that thread. Good luck. Jim Patrick

I used a pipe wrench to remove mine with a piece of leather as so to not mar the metal.

First, I put some penetrating oil around the thread area and soaked it awhile, then I put a short straight piece of pipe in the side where the gas comes out to the line, then I took a long handled heavy box end wrench and put one end over the pipe and the other end straight up. With a steady pull, it soon started turning.

The whole bulb appears to be brass! That is quite unusual!

The gas shut off lever is wired behind, a cleaver idea, but why!

If that part is messed up, an early 1928 gas shut off lever is identical, if you cut the finger off the top and round the area some what.

Note the little screw in the second photo that has to be removed to remove the drain pipe and gas tank.

James

Most of those script late bulbs are cast iron, so brass one is unique.


The handle was wired to save it, as the valve stem with its milled flats on the shank is now rounded off from wear. The handle hole fits to the valve stem shank.

Factory details:

Thank you, Jim Golden! I did what you described; that is, put a large box end wrench over the gas outlet and out it came.

Should I reuse the bulb or replace it? Thoughts anyone.

While it's always nice to keep stock, your valve body is destroyed at the lever end.

The milled end is rounded, and the keyed lever won't fit anymore, can see where in the past pliers were used to grasp the valve to open and close.

Don't think replacement valve bodies can be had, even then, fitting the cone valve to existing seat may still leak. A new reproduction $60 sediment bulb would be easier, but depending on what you can do, repair could be done.

Did one fix by sealing the factory valve that was in poor and leaking shape in the open position, and then added a carb type shut off at the elbow, bypassing the worn leaking original valve.

Bruce, I just went through that procedure with a leaky valve.

The valve had set in one place for a long time without being turned off and a rust or corrosion wart had grown on the inlet area.

I wire brushed that off, cleaned all the paint a debris off, added some fine valve grinding compound and spun the valve with an electric drill.

Then cleaned everything again and added some E Z Lube around the tapered area.

Your valve looks like it was turned with pliers for some time, but the handle notch and thread area look OK.

The guy may have just lost the nut to hold the handle in place.

The rough shaft could be cleaned and smoothed, so the gasket area should still be good.

The handles are not available, but the early 1928 handle is the same if you cut off the finger that limits travel and smooth the top rounded area.

The whole valve and filter assembly is evidently available new for about $70.00.

The two attached photos show the non-metallic "plug" that fit around the gas line. Is there a replacement for it if I damage it during removal. I plan on removing the the gas tank.

The overflow drain pipe is held with 2921 long single slot set screw and retained on the lower cowl with a hook shaped fastener with nut inside cowl.

Looks like the overflow pipe missing.

That ‘non metallic plug’ is the burlap gasket #3 in triangle in the drawing. No replacement is made as repro, save it or use as pattern with a heavy thickness of canvas or composite substitute.