MTFCA Forum

Down to the last step in drying in our T by attaching vinyl cloth. The kit I have came with long grain material and a 1/4" thick foam pad that goes on top of the slats covered with a canvas material. My question is how far do you extend the foam over the crest of the wood frame, do you not extend it in to the tack area or not?

The attached photos shows side view of top wood frame as is and then the foam pad.

I’d ditch the foam pad and use felt. That’s what was originally used. I have doubts about how well that foam will pad out a top and how long it will last.

Also, Did you hang your headliner first? The headliner goes in before the top goes on

Adam,
Headliner is in and the interior is complete, only items I have to complete is the top material and the front passenger seat. Don't know what was there before since it was my dad's vehicle and he would use what was handy. Thanks for noting the felt.

My father was an upholsterer for 50 years. He had a chance to teach me a few things before I lost him when I was 26.
I've done a few closed and open car tops. I've done cars that just needed a recover on a closed car to a complete roadster top that needed the steam bent bows fitted to the tapered top sockets and covered including the complete top cover.
One thing I can say for sure is, if you want your top to look like it did when it left Highland Park, or wherever your car was assembled, take that foam and use it to pad your dog's bed. Upholstery foam padding did not exist in the 20's and it won't look right. Just like Adam said above.
Ford used upholstery cotton. It's natural cotton that is unginned. It retains a good number of the seeds. If possible, get it in a thickness of about 1/4 inch thick.
If you're only able to find it in the thickness typical for furniture use, you can carefully peel it in layers. It's not difficult to do. I like to use a layer of unbleached, heavy cotton muslin under the cotton, stretched tight over the top slats and tacked with blued upholstery tacks. Typically, fabric comes in widths of 54". You may need to shop around to find it in wider widths. You can find anything on the internet now. Don't get discouraged.
The tricks to installing a top correctly, is to go from the center out. Find the center of the material back to front and side to side and snip a tiny "V" in those spots at the edge. Chalk will rub off. Work from the centers out. Side to side, back to front.
Do this on a warm day and you'll be able to stretch the top cover so there will be no pleats or puckers at the corners.
I'm not entirely positive here, but I believe Ford used a tar-like sealant, similar to Henry's roof emulsion between the outer edge of the top and the wood top structure at the outer edges for extra waterproofing. If you're brave and decide to go that route, use sparingly and apply a stripe about one inch wide just under the outside perimeter of the top material using an acid brush.
Good luck, take your time, and don't trim anything until you're sure you're there.

Mike Spaziano.

The supplied foam will break down over time. A readily available substitute for cotton padding is sheet dacron, which any quilting supplies shop can supply, in different thicknesses. 1/4" is about right. It does not break down, is not damaged by moisture and comes in wide enough pieces that you have no need for any joins. Unlike the original cotton padding, it also does not readily fall apart, making it easy to push/pull around as required.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

Alan and Mike,
Thanks for your input on eliminating the foam and going with a padding that won't crumble over time do to heat exposure, I have received the same input from others. I look at the final covering like icing on a cake, if your base isn't robust it will not hold up. Your comments are greatly appreciated.

Sounds like your on the road to install the top. Have you installed the headliner yet? You probably have already done it but just wondering.