MTFCA Forum

Looking for some one that has the skill set to silver soldier and repair my original brass hubcaps and brass headlight rims that go on a 1915 roadster. If you could p.m. me or give me a call on my cell that would be great. Nick H. Cell # 772-532-3274

Nick, the brass cracks because it has not been fully annealed to relieve stresses from the pressing. Each side of the crack will sit a little proud of the finished surface. On the headlamp rims this should be gently beaten down against a buck, so the solder can be applied on the inside. It will fill the crack and be almost invisible after finishing/polishing. This can't be done on the inside of the hubcaps because of those fine threads. You have nothing to loose by trying, but a set of new reproductions may be a better answer.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

I had my post July 1911 hubcaps restored by Bill Glass. He did remarkable work.

Keith, can you post photos of any repairs to cracked threads? i would like to see how they turn out. I have a couple I have not been game to try with.

Allan from down under.

For my 1913 and 1915 two Ts, I welded several brass hubcaps myself. It is tricky, heat must be very carefully controlled. I cleaned up a rear hub with longer than some threads. Threaded the hubcaps on, and used modern worm-screw hose clamps to pull the splits together and almost tight. I used standard fluxed brazing rod, and welded the brass. Heat control was tricky, just a few degrees too hot and the brass hubcap melts away quickly! Part of the trick, is to reverse usual welding practice. Instead of the item being welded having a puddle and the rod just below melting temperature touching into the puddle to blend into it, get the end of the rod hotter, and let that raise the item's surface the last few degrees to blend together. Temperature control is critical! A few degrees too cool, and it won't blend. A few degrees too hot, and you get about a quarter inch hole before you can stop it! I did manage to fill in and re-flow the metal and save a couple that I got too hot. But that was really difficult, and the result was only fair looking.
Using the hub as a buck, allows the brass to form around the threads, so the hubcap will still thread on and off okay. Don't get the hub hot enough for the brazing rod to stick!
I generally had to weld part of the crack, and then move the hose clamp to finish it.
After done, I remove the hubcap from the hub and give a good general heating to re-anneal the brass, so hopefully, they won't crack again at least for several years.

I bent some strap-iron to match inside and outside curves for headlamp rings. Use small C-clamps on whichever side allows best approach to weld headlamp rings in a similar fashion. They aren't perfect, but I can live with them.

It can be done! I consider myself a mediocre welder. I am happy with the results for my cars. However I don't think I would want to try someone else's parts. My luck, they would come out really nasty and I would be blamed for it.

Let me post a suggestion. Talk with a school band director in you area and find out who dose their brass instrument repair. These guys are are generally some best at repairs on brass. You may need to be prepared to loan them a hub with good threads if you have hubcaps with splits. Another source is to go to a mom and pop jewelry store in your area and find out who dose their silver service repair. The latter will probably be a little pricier, but good workmanship also.

I just found a product that helps with this kind of repair. It's Silver Bearing Solder Paste. It comes in a tube and is silver solder particles suspended in a flux. melts with a small butane torch. Also makes a great tin for heavier solder. Found it at Homedepot

I will issue my opinion as gently as possible: Silver-bearing solder is soft solder and is the very last thing you want to put on a brass fracture/joint which is under stress.

If you do use it, you will want to keep a "puddle" of it at least on the inside of the part. True silver solder, like a weld, can be worked down to just the parent metal and be an invisible repair. Not so with silver-bearing solder.

Allan-
Here is view of my ugly hubcaps:
I sent them all to Bill and asked him to restore the best 5, and send back the rest.

Here is a close up of one:
I was interested in the various silver solder repair, but since these original hubcaps are scarce as hen's teeth, I wanted to send them to someone who actually knew what he was doing!

: ^ )

Wayne highlighted the problems with braze welding brass. I hadn't thought of using a hub as a heatsink on which to solver solder. i guess a rusty one would be even less likely to be affected by he soldering. Neat trick!

Allan from down under.