Insights for my 1911 touring top

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Quickm007
Posts: 1198
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:58 am
First Name: Mario
Last Name: Brossard
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 Touring and 1914 speedster
Location: Quebec City Canada
MTFCA Number: 30981
MTFCI Number: 30981
Board Member Since: 1999

Insights for my 1911 touring top

Post by Quickm007 » Tue Mar 16, 2021 4:14 pm

I just received my top for my 1911 touring last week and I also received the 4 pieces of top bows either. I'm ready to start trying to install the top. I don't know if someone could send me some measurements of the height of the top bows and also couple pictures how you set-up the way to install the top as well please? As I see, I have to fit the top wood wood bow inside of top iron as well, I don't know how deep I have to go threw. Some insights? I never installed a top before. And this car when I bought it, it doesn't have a top before. So I have no references and no idea how to start for the installation. Bellow I have these top measurments as well from Iaccino.

Thank you for any tips, plans, pictures or insights you may share with me. Any help would be appreciated.

top touring 1911.JPG
Last edited by Quickm007 on Thu May 06, 2021 9:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
Super Mario Bross ;)

1911 Touring
1914 Speedster


Art Ebeling
Posts: 408
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:43 am
First Name: Art
Last Name: Ebeling
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 touring 14 runabout
Location: Hillsboro IL
MTFCA Number: 50718

Re: Insights for my 1911 touring top

Post by Art Ebeling » Wed Mar 17, 2021 8:37 am

I used that diagram for my top bow height dimensions. There is a good article by Royce on The Model T Fix about replacing the top. I duct taped and wired my wooden bows alongside the metal bow sockets at those correct heights and stood them all in place on the car to check and recheck the heights. I made a mark on each wooden bow at the top of each socket so I could know where to start my tapered shaping to fit inside the socket. The ends of the bows can be shaped (tapered) with a draw knife or I just used a angle grinder. If you Google 1911 Model T top bow dimensions there is a great article with pictures of this by Gary London in a 2005 MTFCA forum. This part of the top installation is most important and took a lot of time. Once the bows are shaped and in the sockets they can be stood and held in place with wooden straps clamped on each side to check the heights and the rront and rear bow overhang. The rear bow should be set so that the rear edge of the bow is overhanging the back of the body by about 2.5 niches. That way when the rear curtain is tacked to the body and on the bow it kinda follows the angle of the rear of the body. The front bow needs to be approx 2 inches in front of the windshield approx even with the bottom of the top brass windshield frame. The next step is to Take it all down and wrap the bows with the bow wrap. Once the bows are wrapped temporarly stand all the bows back in place to double check all your measurements and observe the overall look. After that you can install the bow webbing front to rear, or in an X pattern between the bows to hold it all in place. My top kit came with webbing to run front to rear but I wanted to do the X pattern so Mike at Classtique made some webbing to do that. All this will take a considerable amount of time and patience. With the bows in place and held by the webbing you can install the front windshield flap if you are using one, and the rear curtain. The rear curtain will need hung from the rear bow, make a mark at the center of the bow and the center rear of the body and the center of the top and bottom of the curtain and match them up to each other. The rear curtain then needs to be marked at the bottom to match up to where the Murphy fasteners are on the body. The fastener eyelets have to be installed in the bottom of the rear curtain at those locations by using a razor blade or with a leather punch made for that purpose. I used the punch. Next I hung the rear side curtains and marked the bottoms for the Murphy fasteners. The side panels get tacked to the bow first because the rear center curtain rolls up . The rear side curtains and top panel can be stretched and tacked to the rear bow. After the rear curtains are attached to the bow and the body you install the padding front to rear so that it covers the curved section of the bows. The next step is to install the top deck. Mark the center of the front and rear bow and the center of the top deck material in order to line the deck up correctly. Lay the top deck in place and tack at the center of the rear bow at the rear edge of the bow so the finish welting covers the tacks then go the front bow pull it tight and tack the center of the front bow. From there you can start pulling the top tight and tacking it from the center out toward each side. I would start at the rear bow then go to the front bow. Remember to tack the top deck on the front side of the front bow at the lower edge so that the finish welting covers the tacks. I would get the bows finished and wait for a hot sunny day to install the rest. Do not trim anything, you can do that once you are happy with how it looks. The front sides of the top deck has to be left long so it can be wrapped around for a finished look. This is an outline of how I did my 11 top. You can email or pm me and I will send you some pictures and my phone number to answer any questions. Art
Attachments
image0 (28).jpeg
image1 (96).jpeg
image2 (35).jpeg
image3 (9).jpeg
image4 (7).jpeg
Last edited by Art Ebeling on Wed Mar 17, 2021 12:46 pm, edited 4 times in total.


Art Ebeling
Posts: 408
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:43 am
First Name: Art
Last Name: Ebeling
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 touring 14 runabout
Location: Hillsboro IL
MTFCA Number: 50718

Re: Insights for my 1911 touring top

Post by Art Ebeling » Wed Mar 17, 2021 8:57 am

More pictures.
Attachments
image1 (97).jpeg
image0 (30).jpeg
image2 (36).jpeg
image4 (8).jpeg

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Topic author
Quickm007
Posts: 1198
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:58 am
First Name: Mario
Last Name: Brossard
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 Touring and 1914 speedster
Location: Quebec City Canada
MTFCA Number: 30981
MTFCI Number: 30981
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: Insights for my 1911 touring top

Post by Quickm007 » Wed Mar 17, 2021 10:24 am

Art Amazing! Wow! Wow! and Wow! Exactly what I'm looking for! That's a very good start. I will read it again tonight. A big thank's to you. Really appreciated.
Super Mario Bross ;)

1911 Touring
1914 Speedster


Colin Mavins
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Location: Winnipeg Canada

Re: Insights for my 1911 touring top

Post by Colin Mavins » Wed Mar 17, 2021 11:13 am

My Dad Made his own top using the original as a pattern and the The red Model t ford restoration hand book by Floyd Clymer. Page 86 It covers every thing. Our top has been going strong since 1967
DSCN2971.JPG


Don ellis
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Last Name: Ellis
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911,1917,23,27
Location: Julian nc
MTFCA Number: 17946
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Re: Insights for my 1911 touring top

Post by Don ellis » Wed Mar 17, 2021 12:21 pm

where did you buy a top kit?

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Topic author
Quickm007
Posts: 1198
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:58 am
First Name: Mario
Last Name: Brossard
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 Touring and 1914 speedster
Location: Quebec City Canada
MTFCA Number: 30981
MTFCI Number: 30981
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: Insights for my 1911 touring top

Post by Quickm007 » Thu May 06, 2021 9:55 am

Thank you Art and all other folks for the insights. Top is done, took me close of 60 hours to make it. Maybe I'm slow but so many measurement to do and adjustment as well. Hope I'm gonna be good for 50 years... with my young 110 years old Ladies
1911 top 2021 A.JPG
1911 top 2021 B.JPG
Super Mario Bross ;)

1911 Touring
1914 Speedster

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Oldav8tor
Posts: 1928
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:39 am
First Name: Tim
Last Name: Juhl
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1917 Touring
Location: Thumb of Michigan
MTFCA Number: 50297
MTFCI Number: 24810
Board Member Since: 2018

Re: Insights for my 1911 touring top

Post by Oldav8tor » Thu May 06, 2021 11:42 am

It amazes me how Ford used to just knock these out on the assembly line. It would be nice to know how they did it. My compliments to those of you who are able to tackle it yourselves and achieve such good results.
1917 Touring
1946 Aeronca Champ
1952 Willys M38a1 Jeep (sold 2023)
1953 Ford Jubilee Tractor


Colin Mavins
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Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 1:36 pm
First Name: Colin
Last Name: Mavins
Location: Winnipeg Canada

Re: Insights for my 1911 touring top

Post by Colin Mavins » Fri May 07, 2021 11:01 pm

Dads philosophy was if you don't know how to do it buy a book and learn how The T was his first paint job done with a vacuum cleaner on reverse out side total cost 60 bucks that paint is still on the car . Mom showed Dad how to sew and the hole family helped get the top completed . He did the same with the House.


Allan
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* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
Location: Gawler, Australia

Re: Insights for my 1911 touring top

Post by Allan » Sat May 08, 2021 5:20 am

Art's post just about nails it. The only thing I would add is the third bow does not need to be mush higher than the second, if any. Variations between the height of these two bows is what causes the ripples in the sides of the top. What you are asking the top material to do is make a compound curve. Top material will do so, but it mustn't be too much of a curve.

My trimmer has me tack timber laths to the inside of the body and the back bow, to fix it firmly in place, the right distance to the rear and the correct height in relationship to the back panel. He also wants similar laths tacked to the under side of the other three bows. This fixes the relationship between the four of them, bows two and three are fixed vertically and without any twisting, either between themselves and in relationship to the front bow, and the whole set are square with the rear bow. Once they are set, then, and only then, does he nail in place the side bags and the front to back straps. The laths set the spacings. The straps hold the spacings.

Allan from down under.


Art Ebeling
Posts: 408
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:43 am
First Name: Art
Last Name: Ebeling
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 touring 14 runabout
Location: Hillsboro IL
MTFCA Number: 50718

Re: Insights for my 1911 touring top

Post by Art Ebeling » Sat May 08, 2021 7:02 am

Very nice, That is a beautiful touring. Art

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