MTFCA Forum

So I was looking at the U Joint connection and noticed the grease cup when turned would hit the edge of the ball cap. Shouldn't the grease cup have clearance to be screwed all the way down. It didn't look bent.

I moved the ball cap to the side to take the picture.

It should screw all the way down. Is the grease cup at the top or the bottom of the drive shaft?

It is hitting the U-joint ball retainer.

It's a easy fix, that greaser is not model T, the right one angles up to the cup thread from the screw in fitting, making the cup thread about 3/8" higher so the cup will hit or bottom out on the flange fully screwed down.

Here is what the other Frank described

Your picture shows the grease cup cap almost hitting the lock nut on the radius rod end. That would mean that the ball cap is turned 90 degrees from normal and that the grease cup is not aligned with the oil hole in the drive shaft tube ball. In order to get grease into the U joint the grease cup has to align with that hole. The drive shaft tube hole should be up, but is sometimes mounted down. Unbolt the cap and rotate to align grease cup with grease hole. For now you can replace the grease cup with a modern grease zirk. You can get a correct grease cup from a Model T parts vendor, such as Langs or Chaffins, you can even get that large grease cup with a modern zerk installed inside it to make greasing the U joint easier. Make sure to use the safety wire or lock washers on the lower ball cap bolts and the split pins on the upper castle nuts and no gasket. By the way the radius rod lock nuts should be castle nuts with split pins next time you work on the rear end.

"I moved the ball cap to the side to take the picture."

For photo effect.

The problem is simple. As Frank V E (Kerry) states and Frank B (TRDxB2) shows a picture of, you have the wrong grease cup. The correct one stands higher on tapered sides while yours flares straight out down low. It is too low to clear the U-joint ball collar. It may have an adapter for a smaller pipe fitting that needs to be removed from the collar. The proper ones are fairly common as they were also used on TT truck rear ends, and lots of them got saved.

OK Now I see. This is the one at the top of the drive shaft. I did have the collar turned to the side so you could see it better. Now I see that the correct one looks like a funnel at the bottom. Thanks everyone!!!

While you're at it, get this one from Langs. You and your car will be glad. They are the only one's who sell this type.
You and your car will be glad you did. Forget about being "correct". No one knows unless you pull the cap off and show it.
Big whoop. This makes it easy to get a proper amount of lube into a very lube consuming area.

https://www.modeltford.com/item/2579GR.aspx

It isn’t an “original” grease cup, but it also looks to me like it is might be cross-threaded, tipping it forward a little.

The grease cups from the vendors are okay but not as good as a decent original. The reproduction cups aren’t threaded all the way to the end of the cap, so don’t have as much capacity. That cup in the picture is probably the right vintage and has a ring of leather at its bottom which produces a better hydraulic seal (if it’s in decent condition).

I think I'm going to get the one with the zerk fitting. In order to get the right amount of grease in there I think you would have to put about 30 cap fulls in. I think Steve did a post about it. Should there be a gasket between the 4th main and the the other half of the ball cap? I know there should be a gasket between the 4th main and the Hog's head but I was watching a video that said no gasket between the two half parts where the grease is.

Just put a Zerk in and be done with it.

I have a cup with the Zerk fitting - you really need to pack the area around the u-joint with grease and doing it with an original cup takes forever. I have the original and keep it in a box of stuff to give the next owner.... keeping everything properly lubricated is more important to me than having everything original.

I could see that not a lot was in there when I pulled the engine. I'll put a Zerk in and fill it till it comes out the sides. Ha!!

Pack it by hand with good ol' "Red 'n Tacky" grease out of the tub, it'll take almost the whole tub.
Then it's easy to "top off" every oil change from a regular grease gun with the same grease in the cartridge.

Have fun!!

Even with a good 4th, shim and plug in the output shaft, mine needs grease before next oil change! (and more then a couple of caps full)