MTFCA Forum

How do I remove the carburetor rod from the dash of my 1927 coupe? Attached are two photos.

It's a little hard to see what you have. I have 2 26 open cars. That little bracket which holds the wire to the choke Is held in by a small cotter pin. You should be able to remove the cotter pin and it will slide right off the end of the rod. Then pull it straight into the cab of the car and it should come right out.
Norm

Detail of the combo choke and carb adj. on the NH carb, showing that little cotter pin in the rod, for lifting the 4591 rod sleeve, that tugs up the wire to the choke when you pull on the knob. Twisting that knob adjusts the carb rich or lean.

Here are two better pics.

That lower piece doesn’t seem to be Ford, so wiggle it off, could have a piece of wire in the tiny rod hole where a cotter should be. Just wiggle or cut it free. Maybe left over of a Vaporizer type fitting to the rod as they were slightly different.

Bruce. Looking at Dan’s drawing, does the 4591 rod sleeve turn and slide up and down easily on the choke rod? In your picture, the rod sleeve lever appears to be upturned, which makes me think it does not easily turn, because the lever usually points downward due to its heavier weight and it looks to be stuck about 1/2” above the cotter pin, which it should rest on. If it does not slide or turn easily, you may need to sand off the rust on the choke rod, down to the bare metal and lubricate with oil. Jim Patrick

The sleeve seems ok. The piece below I think (picture is blurry) is a collar from the throttle or spark rods that someone used as a ‘cup’ to help pull up the sleeve. Seems to be the loop end of a cotter sticking into the tiny hole in the rod to support that cup. Remove it and the sleeve will fall free as you withdraw the choke rod.

The sleeve is loose and moves freely on the rod. The piece below it is odd. There is not a cotter key in it. It is a "solid" ring that raps tight around the rod and does not move. The straight piece is cast into the ring.

Is there a hole for a cotter key? I would remove that cup even if I had to grind it off as it is not supposed to be there on a ‘27. Once the cup is off, you should find a cotter key hole. If not. Drill one at the proper location on drill press. It is difficult to drill into round stock so use a center punch to start the hole. I’d say to use about 1/16” bit for a small cotter key. Be sure to get it in the right location on the shaft. Jim Patrick

Cut it off with a Dremel tool !

Jim, What is the right location for a cotter key?

BLB27 wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 29, 2021 8:18 pm

Jim, What is the right location for a cotter key?

The distance will vary depending on which carb Adj. rod and knob, there are 11 different rod lengths, for '25 to 26, 26-27 and 26 -27 with vaporizer carbs, these fit the different body styles , TT or chassis only.

Really not too important where the cotter hole is located, as long as the 4591 rod sleeve can pull closed the carb choke butterfly without the square end at the lower part of the rod coming apart from the 4131 rod sleeve on the univ. joint carb needle.

The wire you make to go from the 4591 to the carb choke lever will allow the hole where the cotter pin goes, to be drilled most anywhere up the rod.


Measured the cotter pin on my 27 touring, NH carb, at 1 1/2" from the end of the 4131 (choke open).

And cotter pin is 3" from the 4131 (choke fully closed.)


Full Choke