MTFCA Forum

Does anyone know of a published source or link to instructions for making my own pinion bearing setup? With the non adjustable one currently off the market, having some housings that would be good candidates for the conversion, I would like to try and make a couple myself. I know people have done this because I have had a couple go thru my hands in the past. Not being a master machinist, having instructions and parts list at hand would be great esp if it does not include machining the drive shaft.

Try the original Ford setup. It's been working for me for over 60 years!

LOL I knew I would hear this from you! Yes I know they have and it's great if you have an endless supply of good parts to pull from. The open housings I have are pitted and worn so will be good candidates for the conversion.

Hi Mark,
It's nice to know I'm not the only crazy I can do that person out there! I don't think it would be appropriate to publish some ones instructions with out there permiision. I had the same thought you have about making my oun roller bearing spool ( also having some that are to pitted to use) The deciding factor was when I could not get the backlash set on the gears until I discovered the bore was off center by almost .010 " so every time I assembled it with a different shim nothing made sence it would not change the wat I expected. Once I discovered the offset I could set the backlash by rotating the spool.
You will definetly need a lathe and some good measuring tools. I purchased the bearings, split collar & bushing@ the local bearing house. I made the spacers out of a old rear axle housing tube ( it was a bent one) Once I had it assembled I cut a shallow grove in the shaft and ground the ends of the split collar so it locked into the shaftand could not just slide back giving it to little bearing preload. I would spend the extra time to indicate the spool
before starting so you will not run into the same issue I did with the one I purchased. Here is a crude drawing of the notes I made. Hope it will help.
Craig. OK I give up turn your head!!

Did you anneal it before machining? What was the procedure?
I thought those spools were harder than the hubs of heck.

Here is a pic of the parts

No I didn't have to aneal it.

re tun on head, no problem, I just rotated my saved copy! thanks that will be great help. I am redoing my back plate so I can mount my 4 jaw. My 3 jaw is about .015-.018 out, ok when turning down a part but not so good if you have to keep a center.

Just put a core for an open spool in the mail today to Dave at Chaffin's Garage.

He modifies these spools for the modern taper bearing, next batch is at the machine shop being honed for the bearing, as stock bearings are a tad large, and he makes the non-adjustable. For me they fit fine, did the last one in Aug, next one is on the way. BTY, these are about 30 days out.....as Dave told me someone ordered 6 units and ran his stock out!

Before all of these replacements, when I was tooling about working tings out for myself, I modified an open spool to take two ball bearings. They were 1" internal diameter to suit the shaft and somewhat bigger than the spool. I simply machined the spool each end to accept the bearings and pressed them in. One was an angular thrust bearing and was really expensive. It worked, but may not be the best pratice.
Allan from down under.

I’m pretty sure Birdhaven is doing these I just sent them my spool and they put the modern bearing(fun projects) set up in it and sent it back within a couple weeks.

Hi
You are correct Texas Parts have them, former Birdhaven however the freight plus swap of the old spool makes it very expensive from Australia, and they refused to seek me the components only.
I have managed to get all components, cone bearing timken and cup, the other bearing easy to get, I have made a spacer, used a 1inch standard lock collar, and the bush usually at the universal end of the drive shaft as the inner filler.
My spool is early, closed with bumps and a screw on top. I left the hardened sleeve in the spool, too difficult to press out, I thought, and I will insert a small steel tube behind the thrust bearing cup to prevent it pushing up the spool, locked in by the screw (extended to have more depth).
Your drawing, I thought, was excellent, wish I had it before starting!!

A couple of weeks before I complete
Richard
Perth
Western Australia