MTFCA Forum

After last summer's fiasco of pulling the engine on my 25 Touring because of a seized head bolt I've decided on what I hope will be a less involved project this year that won't keep me out of the driver's seat all summer.

I've decided to restore the car to the original type ignition system. My car originally came to me with a home fabricated distributor, which I replaced with a Texas T distributor. The distributor works fine for the most part but makes adjusting the fan belt an annoying affair resulting in a trip to church to confess my sins.

I've decided to go with an E-Timer. I like the concept, it seems to be a quality product, and the automatic timing advance feature appeals to me because I'm confident that I have never driven the car and and actually adjusted the spark advance properly at the same time.

What I don't know is where to buy coils. I see a few reputable rebuilders/refurbishers on the forum and in the magazine but I'm starting from scratch.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Brent Mize, the coil doctor, from Columbus Ohio.
I gotta look up his info, will email it to you.

Go to swap meet in Luray va next month

There's certainly nothing wrong with an e-timer, but don't sell yourself short when it comes to adjusting the timing lever.

You do it mainly by ear and by how the car feels under you. I just fidget with mine until it feels like it has the most power and is running the smoothest.

I'm running my 24 Touring with a completely stock ignition system and have been for the two years since I returned to the road. And...I have to say that messing around with the timing has become part of the whole experience for me. I don't think it would be quite as fun if I didn't have it.

You will love that ETimer!!

You don't have to pay for finely tuned and adjusted coils so you'll save a bunch if you can find some at the swap meets.

I buy them at swap meets. I adjust them on a "buzz box" which I hook up to my magneto. I test each coil and find some of them will work just the way I bought them. I can also replace condensors and points when necessary, and only the ones with open or shorted windings need to be discarded. I carry a couple spares along in each of my cars. I very seldom have any problems with the ignition system. All my cars run on magneto, but will also run on battery. I also carry a spare timer and spark plugs. On most tours, the cars with ignition problems are running distributors or other after market ignition systems. If you choose to do so, be sure to have some spare parts to fit your particular system, because many of them are not available at any parts store. You need to know what brand parts you are using and carry along spares to fit your own car.
Norm

I don’t know anything about an e-timer but how would an e-timer compensate for double sparking coils? I’ve got two sets of coils, one set I got from Ron Patterson and both of my cars (with rebuilt magnetos) will start with those coils on mag, I’ve got another set of rebuilt coils that I purchased at a swap meet and neither car will start from cold on mag using them. I’m sure the other set would be fine if adjusted on an HCCT but as they are you have to use a battery. I started my 14 on mag when it was 2 degrees here last month.

how would an e-timer compensate for double sparking coils?

There is no double sparking with the E-Timer. The E-Timer is an electronic ignition that uses the original coils primary and secondary windings but not the coil point contacts. The points are bypassed with small fuse jumpers; effectively shorting them out so the points are electrically closed all the time so there is no need to maintain the points, condenser/capacitor or have the points properly adjusted. The E-Timer monitors engine speed and piston position then charges and fires the coil at the correct time. Spark timing also advances automatically with engine speed to maintain optimal performance while operating on battery so there is no need to continually adjust the spark lever.

The coil points still vibrate and buzz but are strictly cosmetic. All Coil current flows through the fuse jumpers installed across the coil points so there is no dependence on mechanical point contacts and associated adjustment flaws like double sparking. Some folks don't even install the coil points on their coils using the E-Timer, just the small fuse jumpers.

By the way, there is a huge difference between a Model T engine that starts and "Runs" and one that Runs well. Engine performance depends upon ignition Timing, Not HCCT coil current. That's like using a sundial's shadow as an indirect approximation to tell Time. Find someone to adjust your coils using the dwell time to fire method for equal and consistent firing Time rather than equal coil current and experience the difference precise ignition timing makes on a Model T performance. This, of course assumes, your timer is in good condition, properly maintained and properly centered on the CAM. Perhaps others who have experienced the difference will chime in.

What I don't know is where to buy coils.

Luke Chennell, Andy Loso, Brent Mize, Ron Patterson. You can contact all of them through the forum (Click Extra Quick links at the top of this page). Luke, Andy, and Brent are also on FB. I don't know about Ron.

I would also rebuild your coil box with the plastic insert and get rid of the wood. That will get rid of any problems in the box. Keep all the metal contacts since they are the correct type of bronze(?). Call to find who has one in stock, since if you just order it you might get a back order notice. If you have not driven up to Loves Park yet, make a trip to see Bob and take a tour.

"By the way, there is a huge difference between a Model T engine that starts and "Runs" and one that Runs well. Engine performance depends upon ignition Timing,"

As the man said. very true.
etimer or properly set coils.

Not exactly as original but a solid coil, get yourself a set of 4, adjust and run. It's a model T after all not a 2020's Ford, no high tech required, it worked well in the 1920's, to me some mods are a slippery slop that leads to mounting the body on modern running gear.
https://www.macsautoparts.com/model-t-f ... 612-1.html

MKossor wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 29, 2021 11:38 pm

By the way, there is a huge difference between a Model T engine that starts and "Runs" and one that Runs well.

1000% this. Unfortunately there are so many Ts out there that have been kept in the condition of barely running long enough that a lot of people consider that state normal for a T. Its not. I have a 26 that when i bought it was what I would consider "Typical" condition of a "running" T. It had 2 different size pistons, horribly done babbit, cracks in the drums, bad clutch, the timer was borked, the coils were shot, the suspension bushings were completely worn out but it did move under its own power and had fresh paint so it was "restored"

Honestly if anything its a testament to how rugged these cars are; I doubt any modern car would run at all in the state that many Ts putter down the road in.

Sit a person in a well sorted car used for regular touring and they will be shocked at how drama free the ride is haha.

As far as the E-timer is concerned. I say go for it. You dont have to worry about the coils at all. I am running an etimer on one of my cars and its great. The other cars either have Anderson or original new day. both good choices. But honestly the E-timer is a lot less fussing around. And besides it is completely stealth unless you bring it up just to piss off someone

Thanks for the explanation of the E-timer. I remember pulling out of my driveway the first time I got a set of rebuilt coils vs the ones I had before that worked but had to start with a battery and as I found out no where near the performance and I also remember leaving a set at Chickasha to be rebuilt and buying a set there and then when I got home my car wouldn’t start with them. I know it had to be something with their adjustment.

Cory,
I have an HCCT and a Strobo-spark.
If you pay for shipping both ways, I'd be happy to adjust your coils for you.
-Keith