MTFCA Forum

I am looking for an engine re-builder in the Los Angeles/So Cal area who does Insert bearings.

Engine Machine Service. Not sure if they do T engines.

Big dollar project. Any T builder can re-build but it's more of doing your home work on how the re-build will work out for what parts can be still bought.

I'm no expert here, so correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought insert bearings require a pressurized oil system?

TWrenn wrote: ↑

Sun May 09, 2021 9:13 am

I'm no expert here, so correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought insert bearings require a pressurized oil system?

You are CORRECT! But there are rebuilders that will do it.

Inserts in a non pressurized engine with no oil filter tend to cause more wear to the crankshaft journals due to abrasive action of contaminants in the oil. Which generally means that by the time you have to replace an insert, you may need to replace the crankshaft too because the crank and insert wear at about the same rate (because the bearing isn’t thick enough to “bed in” any contaminants).

I have tore down several engines with inserts, you need a filter system also to clean the oil before it gets to the bearings, the bands have a bunch of crap coming off them and floating around in a T engine.

If you want insert bearings (why?) then you really should add oil pressure. Then to take advantage of this you need a full flow filter. This can be done without any external changes to the block but is much more convenient to add one externally. This of course may require external links piping. I use the magneto post to bring out the electrical connection for the pressure gauge. So now you need a distributor though I guess you could use the original coils on the battery. I have done two oil pump systems one with an early VW oil pump run off the back of the camshaft. This required a slot cut in the back of the camshaft. The other approach was a Datsun pump in the generator location. Here it runs much faster and has much more reliable priming. However the generator was relocated to the left side of the motor driven by a flat belt. It takes a little effort to get the water pump and the alternator mounted. Mine required an idler pulley to ensure more than 180 degree contact on each pulley. Inside the motor the oil pipes can be either copper or steel. I have never had a failure with copper but I agree the steel is more substantial. However some runs are very short and bending them in place is a challenge. Finally to provide the best oiling to the rod bearings you need a drilled crankshaft.
So I repeat my question “why”
By the time a competent experienced build has added a first class system to your motor he will relieve you of 6-10 thousand dollars.
Is your “why” worth that much money.

Having insert bearings in a T has been around time and again over the years. It’s kind of like adding improvements to old technology and the question usually comes around again as to why?
Building a racing T engine would be one reason for some people but just to have a good running T to go on tours with and etc it’s not necessary. T’s ran for years and years without them with babbitt. To each his own.

Some of the shops specializing in hopped up Model A engine rebuilding might be able to help you out, but again, why? Are you building a full race overhead engine? I can see why you'd want inserts and pressure for an application like that, but if you're running a stock or mostly stock engine, staying with Babbitt is a lot easier than engineering a whole oil delivery system and trying to fit it to a T engine.

Babbit done right should out last inserts in a model t.

Even a fast t dosent "need" inserts. I have got great service from a babbit T block full body flathead. Capable of 70 mph, even with a stock crank. Cruises very comfortably @ 55-60. The last one does have a scatt crank. Money better spent, even if just for the smoothness.
Throwin a bunch of money for an insert motor may be misspent. Unless you are going full race overhead. Going faster than 70?
You still need to beef up steering, front end, brakes, etc. With T tire footprints & the best brakes, you still have to pick safe, empty roads to open her up. One jerk in a modern can ruin your day. The best T brakes are no match for a modern.
Stock body T? The top wont take these speeds up. If you are building a light speedster, you dont need as much horsepower.
Hopefully these posts will help to an informed decision.