MTFCA Forum

I have a rebuilt 1913 engine with a Model A crank installed in the engine. Currently the engine has a "dimpled" four dip pan with an aluminum spacer between the pan and the inspection plate to accommodate the Model A crank.

I would like to install a modified three dip tea cup pan in place of the four dip pan. My biggest concern is the space between the pan inspection plate and the Model A rods and the fourth rod clearance on the three dip pan. I cannot say I have ever seen a three dip spacer, and the fourth rod clearance cannot be enlarged with a spacer.

Has anyone had any experience installing a three dip pan with a Model A crank conversion? All comments are appreciated. Thank you,
Russ Furstnow

Are you using the Scat A crank or an original that has been shortened?

I'm using an original Model A crank that has been modified to accept the Model T transmission. Russ Furstnow

At the least you would have to modify the pan for 4th rod clearance. 3 dip dipper spacer would be easy enough. The area between 3rd rod & 4th part of the pan is a big ? The back edge of the dip cover, on a 4 dip, has to have part of the pan edge removed to clear the crank.
I dont doubt that it can be done, but is the butchery to an early pan worth it?
At this point, I would mock it up & see what has to be cut.

I have heard that the early (13 and older) pan is just a bit wider where it attaches to the block and “dents” can be avoided.
I am really curious as to what you will encounter as I have a identical project in the “que”!!
A 13 block with my version of a modified A crank! The pan was a cut off early version I found that I rescued by welding it to later 3 dip pan back end!!
All the best

I don't know if this will work or not but it is worth investigating. Back in the mid 1970's I was told by a older T engine builder that because we use the stock 4" Model T rods with add on dippers, taking up over a another 1/4", then stock 4 1/4" Model A rods with the dippers cut off will clear the inspection cover without the spacer. He said to add a oil dam in the back of the pan to rase the oil level to the rods with some drain back holes in the dam to return oil to sump. He didn't say anything one way or the other about needing the pan dimples. One more thing I know that he was using a Model A crankshaft with out added counter weights. Again I don't know if this will work for sure but it is worth checking out for your 1913 project.

About 3 years ago there was a early pan at Chickasha that was dimpled. Think it was a 7 rivet, thought to myself what a shame! Didnt look inside at 4th rod.

I am thinking of doing something similar to keep the look of the needle nose and have the convenience of the four dip. I have a early pan needing some repair and was thinking of welding the nose of the early pan on a four dipper.

John that is exactly what I have done in the past! Works the best.

Hank

Good to know Hank, Thanks jw