MTFCA Forum

I am experimenting trying to find the best procedure for a successful hand crank start on my 23 T. If I use full choke, and a couple of 9 to 12 pulls with ignition off, it fires right away with ignition, but doesn't keep running. I tried 4 choke pulls, but then I get gas running out the carb. Is the fuel coming out of some vent, or is the fuel bowl gasket leaking? I wasn't able to pinpoint the origin. Still experimenting. Thanks..Tommy

Like you, I have been trying to find a reliable cold start method for my car. I just turn the key off, use full choke for 5, 360 degree revolution's, and turn the key on and within 3 to 4 quarter cranks, it starts right up.

Trouble is, there's a zillion different ways to succeed at this between the 100 thousand or so Ts leftover. Everyone is different.
Timing, plug condition, carb setting, etc. all play into it. Trial and error will work for you. I may suggest if you're not already, to pull the throttle down 3-4 notches also while priming. From trial and error, I've found that works well with my '13. I do 3 "yanks" on prime, 3, maybe 4 un-primed (quarter yanks), turn switch on, she tries to free start. Did once this year!! Usually not. But with one or two quarter yanks off she goes. But, if it's been say 40 degrees or so for days, well that's a different story.

Is the fuel out the carb normal, or do I need to fix something. I know if you don't shut the fuel valve off the carb will leak. Thanks for the inputs.

When you find the ideal combination to get a start (my '13 takes two half-turn pulls cold) but she stumbles and dies and you're in front and can't dive quick enough for the spark lever, try "finessing" the choke - a little flutter, hold partially choked until she settles down. Works for me when it's really cold out, needs less or nothing as the weather gets warmer. Oh ! I almost forgot- I also richen the mixture, opening the needle a little less than an eighth of a turn.

Last few mornings I've been getting "free starts" soon as I hit the switch! Life is good !

If the engine starts and dies, opening the needle valve more will probably help. If gas runs out of the carb after heavy choking, it's probably normal. It usually indicates you need less choking. Opening the needle valve more (Up to 2 turns off the seat) when cold starting should help keep the engine running and prevent dying after it starts while hand cranking until you can reach the throttle and spark. If you are starting on mag, moving the spark lever down 4 to 5 notches may help, BUT!!! Be VERY careful if hand cranking because doing this raises the chance of a kickback. Keep the spark lever all the way up when cranking on Bat, whether you are hand cranking or using a starter. It's important that the timer control rod be adjusted correctly, and the throttle rod must be attached to the carburetor securely.

Rich Bingham wrote: ↑

Sun May 16, 2021 8:02 pm

When you find the ideal combination to get a start (my '13 takes two half-turn pulls cold) but she stumbles and dies and you're in front and can't dive quick enough for the spark lever, try "finessing" the choke - a little flutter, hold partially choked until she settles down. Works for me when it's really cold out, needs less or nothing as the weather gets warmer. Oh ! I almost forgot- I also richen the mixture, opening the needle a little less than an eighth of a turn.

Last few mornings I've been getting "free starts" soon as I hit the switch! Life is good !

Ha..I am not quick enough either, but almost!


If the engine starts and dies, opening the needle valve more will probably help. If gas runs out of the carb after heavy choking, it's probably normal. It usually indicates you need less choking. Opening the needle valve more (Up to 2 turns off the seat) when cold starting should help keep the engine running and prevent dying after it starts while hand cranking until you can reach the throttle and spark. If you are starting on mag, moving the spark lever down 4 to 5 notches may help, BUT!!! Be VERY careful if hand cranking because doing this raises the chance of a kickback. Keep the spark lever all the way up when cranking on Bat, whether you are hand cranking or using a starter. It's important that the timer control rod be adjusted correctly, and the throttle rod must be attached to the carburetor securely.

I haven't messed with the needle valve, so that is probably a good idea to open it up a tad on start. Thanks..

With the key off, I prime the engine three quarter turns. I then turn the key on and retard the spark. Starts by it self 90% of the time.

What Larry is saying is that when your T is right there is no problem hand cranking, cold or hot. It will crank the way that is described in the driver’s manual.
I had a 15 that could sit for 6 months, turn on switch throw up the spark lever and bang you were running.
Fix the engine and it will crank like a T should. Dan

I have learned to assume the car will start when I turn the key to Bat. It does, about 1 time in 4. If It doesn't start when switched on, it sometimes will if I bump the starter or move the engine a little with the crank to close the timer contacts. I open the needle valve past its normal running position when first starting the car, even in warm weather. Otherwise, it will most likely fire up and die. I always leave the hand brake on and the spark lever all the way up when I park the car. If I pull the choke out just as I switch the key off when I park it over night, it increases the likelyhood that it will start when I switch the key on the next day. It starts easily when cranked with the starter, and usually starts easily when hand cranked. I haven't had much luck hand crank
ing it on Mag, but it does run well on Mag at anything but extremely low RPM, like 500 and under. I don't have a choke wire up front, or I could start it more easily hand cranking. I haven't tried to check the mag voltage, but I suspect it's a little less than optimum, but still well over the battery voltage at anything above idle speed. The coils seem to like tha AC current, too.

As Tim said, they're all different. Ease or difficulty of starting depends on several variables, and sometimes finding the variables causing hard starting can be maddening. One variable is needle opening, which varies among carbs. Some are good to go with less than a full turn. Others need 1¼ or 1½ turns. I've had very easy starting and very hard starting on the same car, and in some cases figuring out the reason for the change has been an exercise well calculated to drive you* nuts.

*That's the generic you, meaning me.

Yesterday was nice enuf to take Clara, my '13 for a spin finally. Been over a long cold month waiting. Did my usual "3 quarter yanks of prime", followed by 3 ordinary quarter yanks, with throttle down 4 notches. I NEVER mess with the carb needle. Turn switch to BATT, usual attempt to free start. 2 quarter yanks on BATT and vroom! Usually works every time this way, as I said b4, trial and error. I found her liking finally. Your results may vary.

I always richen the mixture 1/4 turn when cold - think about it - why does the carburetor have a mixture adjuster ?

Messing with the carb needle is routine procedure for most Ts and A's . Rewards are easy starting, clean running, and good gas mileage.

I also agree that they are all a little different. Each of our 3 T’s has their own different routine when starting.

When it’s colder out my speedster likes to have a little more choke once it starts. I made this little wood spacer to hold the choke on while I run around and pull the timing lever down and switch it over to mag.

Wooden spacer for choke: That's a great idea.

Kind of ironic,,,all my equipment; mower, weedeater, leaf blower, chainsaw, I switched to either battery or electric. The wife says; now you have a car that you have to start with a hand crank!

From my experience, a T motor that has a properly adjusted carburator & full compression, cold takes 3 -1/4 choke pulls off, 1 -1/4 pull switch on. No need to "race' to the spark advance or richen carb before starting. Warm start: key on, 1 -1/4 turn. If no joy, off ign, 1 -1/4 choke, ign on &1 -1/4 pull. Fine tuning an NH takes a bit of effort. The previous holly G is much easier to get the float level correct by removing the top needle plate to see the actual fuel puddle height. No experience with kingstons or earlier carbs.
A black T with A stock 3.97:1 head should read 58 lbs. plus minus. If your compression is low or inconsistent & your carb aint right plus other factors like spark, then your start procedure will be trial & error to get what works.

Choking brings a heavy load of gas up the manifold. Excess fuel runs back down & leaks out. Normal & expected.
When you turn on the fuel there should be no leak or drip. If so, fuel level is too high & creating a rich start.

Maybe it's because I live in So. Cal. I never change the setting on my carburetor.

Larry, your carb is properly in tune. Do you need to make any adjustments @ altitude, say, 8,000 feet ?