How do I measure and cut a driveshaft.

Post by **Sarikatime** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:59 am

I bought a cast iron Warford transmission to put into my T. The driveshaft needs to be cut. How do I measure to make sure it will fit and work properly. How much play do I need to provide at the u joint. Thank you. Frank

Linus Tremaine · Post by **Linus Tremaine** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 9:17 am

i would probably ask the driveline shop what information they want in order to make you a shaft. They probably have a pretty good idea of what to do.

Post by **DanTreace** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 10:36 am

Post by **DanTreace** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 10:38 am

Bird Haven sells new short drive shafts for Warford

Post by **DanTreace** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 10:45 am

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/82 ... 1519790772

Link to pdf file with instructions to install Warford or new KC Warford.. click on Mark’s post and open link to Texas T Psrts page then open pdf file on Texas T parts product page.

Post by **Mark Gregush** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 11:33 am

The cast iron uses a different length then the original aluminum 2 speed or KC Warford. You need to cut 15.75 off the stock driveshaft when installing the cast iron 3 speed or original aluminum 3 speed with the intermediate coupling. I cut mine and used above drawings to locate the hole for U-joint pin at that end.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/59 ... 1478206457

Post by **Sarikatime** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 12:13 pm

Mark, what is the lenght of the driveshaft only without intermediate coupling. I cannot use the intermediate coupling due to room available on the towncar. The seat is so close to the pedals that I may even have to cut the front face of the seat to make room for the shifter. Frank

Erik Barrett · Post by **Erik Barrett** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 12:52 pm

If you do not use the intermediate coupling with the u joint you are going to have a problem. The input shaft of the Warford is meant to plug in to the back end of a T u joint, not the output shaft of the T transmission. The problem is they are different sizes. Measure up a u joint and you'll see. You will have a very sloppy connection as th Warford shaft is too small. Some people have made adapter sleeves.

Post by **Humblej** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 12:54 pm

Frank, you would modify a town car body for an aux transmission? say it isnt so.

Post by **Sarikatime** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 2:05 pm

Jeff, as things are, I have no choice due to the fact that I have a 30 degree and long driveway with this stupid Arizona rolling curb to go to my garage. The city won’t let me change the curb so I have to make a full stop before going up the driveway. Right now I have a ruckstell in the town car but it just looks wrong so I want to reinstall the original 12 clamshell rear axle with a Warford and a cutdown driveshaft. I will leave the two piece driveshaft alone in case I sell the car. Due to the lot of hills in my town I also have disk brakes on the town car that don’t look right but I have no intention of becoming a butt decoration of some modern car. What’s a model T enthusiast to do? Frank

Kerry · Post by **Kerry** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 4:49 pm

I wasn't aware of the original aluminium 3 speed Warfords having the intermedite uni joint?, haven't come across one as yet, just bolted straight on and 1 foot removed from the drive shaft.

Erik Barrett · Post by **Erik Barrett** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 5:01 pm

None of the aluminum ones use the u joint in front. At least not as original equipment.

Erik Barrett · Post by **Erik Barrett** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 5:12 pm

Frank, a cast iron Warford adapted to bolt on without the intermediate coupling would not require modifications anywhere but the floorboards. But there is another problem. It's heavy. When it is used as designed, the unit is supported by a crossmember, and actually puts less stress on the engine than a stock model T. I am assuming you have an original engine in the car, and that pan won't like that cast iron lump hanging off of it at all. You could wind up breaking the crank and engine block. You would be far better off finding a Rocky Maintain, Moore, or some other brand of auxiliary transmission that is built into the driveshaft just in front of the rear end. Much less strain on the pan, and would accomplish the very same thing.

Post by **Sarikatime** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:03 pm

T.t.t.

Les Schubert · Post by **Les Schubert** » Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:10 pm

Here is my approach;
Carefully measure how much you need to remove!! How long is the Warford or similar modifications.
Now remove this exact amount from EITHER end of the driveshaft!! Whichever is easier for YOU to modify based on your tools and or skills !!
The torque tube I take it out of the rear most end as it isn’t tapered

Post by **Mark Gregush** » Thu Mar 14, 2019 12:55 am

And I even asked the question back in 2014; (re the 3 speed aluminum)
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/41 ... 1418221819
I spent some time looking for how much to cut off for installing without the coupler, best I could find was 12+ inches.
I know that some weld up the input shaft on the 3 cast iron 3 speed and mill it to size to fit the tail shaft on the transmission.

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