Front Fender Stress Point.
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
-
Topic author - Posts: 913
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 1:32 am
- First Name: Ignacio
- Last Name: Valdes
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Touring
- Location: Houston, Tx
- MTFCA Number: 50406
- Board Member Since: 2016
Front Fender Stress Point.
I have 2 used 1914-15 fenders. In preparation for painting one has been paint stripped and wire wheeled to get paint and surface rust off, then Metal Prep phosphoric acid treatment to keep them from flash rusting. That is the white residue seen in the picture. Flash rusting occurs quickly in hot, humid, Houston if you don't coat with something. The fenders are in fair condition but I notice that they both have spot welded patches on the underside where the two pieces of fender meet. One had clearly started to crack and was patched and has a light coat of body filler. The other is slightly cracked but has patches on the under side as well. Should I try to weld the crack shown in the second picture or leave it alone?
-
- Posts: 5259
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Front Fender Stress Point.
The patches are not standard. The fenders may be reproductions, and the problem may be that the flange which bolts down to the frame rail is not bent at the correct angle to the inner skirt. If that fold is not spot on, bolting down the flange will put considerable tension on it, leading to the cracks shown. I would remove the patches completely and mount the fenders in their final position, allowing the crack to open up as they are bolted down. The crack will have relieved the tension when it opens up. I would then weld the crack in its open position while it is not under stress, and the problem will go away.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
-
Topic author - Posts: 913
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 1:32 am
- First Name: Ignacio
- Last Name: Valdes
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1924 Touring
- Location: Houston, Tx
- MTFCA Number: 50406
- Board Member Since: 2016
Re: Front Fender Stress Point.
So I left the patches in place and welded the crack but I will take your advice and bend them to the proper angle on installation. I think it turned out ok for someone who doesn't know what I am doing I have applied Metal Prep phosphoric acid and will skim it over a bit with body filler.
-
- Posts: 2293
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:25 pm
- First Name: George
- Last Name: House
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘10 Maxwell AA, ‘11Hupp Model 20, Two 1914 Ford runabouts, 19 centerdoor, 25 C Cab,26 roadster
- Location: Northern Caldwell County TX
- MTFCA Number: 115
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Front Fender Stress Point.
Ignacio, Consider neutralizing that ospho with baking soda/water solution before painting.
I don’t know why I turned out this way. My parents were decent people.
-
- Posts: 6435
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Front Fender Stress Point.
George
have you had an experience which would point to needing to neutralize? I've used the stuff in soggy Florida and sun-baked Wyoming. I've never neutralized the stuff and my paint which ranges from primered to finished; from 6 months to 8 years has not shown the first sign of trouble. If you're basing your advice based on the product simply being acidic, it's generally good advice but I think not for this product, specifically. In any event, I'd sincerely like to know so as to look for signs of trouble which I may be missing.
I just checked their website: http://www.ospho.com/directions.htm and cannot find anywhere that you need or want to neutralize it. Frankly, I believe that you will actually undo some of the products benefit if you flush it off or in any way attempt to neutralize it
I'm in the process of saving 4 really rough fenders...no dents but no front or rear edges either! The beads and crimps all are rusty/crusty and I do not live anywhere near a redi-strip plant, so after completing welding repairs, these will receive a thorough soaking with sprayed on Ospho and allowed to dry. I will also follow up with a flowed-on rust encapsulant as I and my painter do not believe that either primer or topcoat would wick into all of the tiny folds, crimps or beads like this and the encapsulant will. For my project the last thing I would want is deposited baking soda trapped in those places and trapped, it would be.
All the best.
My opinion based on experience and supported by documentation.
have you had an experience which would point to needing to neutralize? I've used the stuff in soggy Florida and sun-baked Wyoming. I've never neutralized the stuff and my paint which ranges from primered to finished; from 6 months to 8 years has not shown the first sign of trouble. If you're basing your advice based on the product simply being acidic, it's generally good advice but I think not for this product, specifically. In any event, I'd sincerely like to know so as to look for signs of trouble which I may be missing.
I just checked their website: http://www.ospho.com/directions.htm and cannot find anywhere that you need or want to neutralize it. Frankly, I believe that you will actually undo some of the products benefit if you flush it off or in any way attempt to neutralize it
I'm in the process of saving 4 really rough fenders...no dents but no front or rear edges either! The beads and crimps all are rusty/crusty and I do not live anywhere near a redi-strip plant, so after completing welding repairs, these will receive a thorough soaking with sprayed on Ospho and allowed to dry. I will also follow up with a flowed-on rust encapsulant as I and my painter do not believe that either primer or topcoat would wick into all of the tiny folds, crimps or beads like this and the encapsulant will. For my project the last thing I would want is deposited baking soda trapped in those places and trapped, it would be.
All the best.
My opinion based on experience and supported by documentation.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
-
- Posts: 2293
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:25 pm
- First Name: George
- Last Name: House
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘10 Maxwell AA, ‘11Hupp Model 20, Two 1914 Ford runabouts, 19 centerdoor, 25 C Cab,26 roadster
- Location: Northern Caldwell County TX
- MTFCA Number: 115
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Front Fender Stress Point.
Our ospho application is definitely different Scott. I brush mine on. After 4-5 hours its bubbly and has been effective so I wash the sheet metal with a cup of the wife’s Arm n Hammer in water depending on how many sheet metal pieces I have to neutralize. And baking soda won’t remain in any of the folds or pits. It’ll just go on as a milky white liquid.Eventually it becomes a blueish smooth steel. And with ospho primer isn’t necessary unless you need to use a primer filler.
I don’t know why I turned out this way. My parents were decent people.