MTFCA Forum

I'm driving this '13 T around, getting a feel for it's bad habits that I need to address... The Only other T I Drive is Dads '24 TT that he set up Beautifully. I've been driving it about Twice a week for 8 Years. Short Town Trips, as well as Multi Hour Drives..
This '13 T belongs to someone else and I volunteered to make it behave better, after another person did major work on it.. Pistons, Bearings, Bands, and new Safety Wire on the Clutch Pack.. No Idea what was done in there.. It needs Tripple Gear Bearings BAD! They had the Flywheel off, as it's now a Ring Gear Flywheel, and the Mag Coils have a 'Factory' Starter Notch in the Housing. And the Hogs Head was replaced as well. Running Starter at 6 Volt. I added the Mag Charger, and an E Timer, with an External Hogs Head oil Line.

I've been adjusting the Bands to get the Peddle Free Play as good as I think it should be, and the Main Clutch is not Dragging on the Hand Brake Slide. I drive this T without the Floorboards, or the Hood, so I can see/smell/hear anything important.

The Main Clutch will 'Slip' if you do not take ALL the Throttle out of it when Letting up the Direct Peddle. Is this a Normal T Function, that my '24 TT does not have because of the Jackrabbit Clutch dad put into it? If not, then is it an Oil/Treatment/Change that will work better?

I rebuilt the NH Carb with a Bunch of new parts ( Bushed the Body for New Throttle and Choke Shaft,Viton Needle on a new seat as well).. I Set the Float Seam to Level at Shutoff. The Engine tends to run Lean at Idle.. This is a Senario that was with the Carb before Re-Bushing and adding new T-Shaft. I was hoping the Lean at Idle was a function of the T-Shaft Air Leak.. The Symptiom is better, but not 'Fixed'.
Is there an 'Idle Mixture Adjustment' Technique.. I'd think it'd be raising the Float Level, and Closing the Main Jet, but I'd rather not start tweeking things when the Information is Out there.. I'm a Idiot, but I'm not Foolish..

Thanks for your Help..

Cap

If carb is lean idle when mixture screw is set for hi speed, fuel level is too low. Re-adjust float. Re-adjust until both are running perfectly.
Remember not to put pressure on the viaton seat when adjustng your float. Did you, perchance, open up the seat fuel passage? If not, you may find that at maximum fuel demand, carb wont fill fast enough & go lean.

Clutch should not slip that much. Tighten 3 finger screws 1/2 turn @ a time. See T1 Manual for description.

I figured it was the Float Level.. Thanks for the Re-Affirming..

I did not know about Opening the Needle Seat Diameter, .. Where should I take it to??.

Thank you for the Information..

Now for the Clutch Issue..

Cap

Someone here sells them already modified. Do a search. Viaton needle & seat. Good luck.

High Flow Float Valve

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=18321

My original barn find buckboard clutch works in exactly the same way. If the lever is not right forward, the clutch will not engage. I have to throttle off to get it to engage at any time. I take this as a good thing. Backing off the throttle allows the engine revs to better match the road speed, and progress is made at a leisurely pace.

Allan from down under.

jsaylor wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 14, 2021 7:32 pm

High Flow Float Valve

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=18321

Thats the one I was thinking about.

Follow Up:

The NH Carb ended up to be Debris in the Idle Bypass to the T-Body.. I Drilled out the Brass Plug on the Manifold Mount Side, and Used a LONG .020 Drill I had, as a reamer/file to carv out the chunks.. And the Down Stream Port of the Idle Circuit was also caked with Crud.. I used the same drill to open up the down stream port.. I used a piece of Solid Core Solder Wire to 'Rivet' the Port Closed.

I checked on the Three Fingers.. Only Two make contact.. One is ALWAYS loose no matter how I adjust them.. Generally I was able to get a 1/2 Turn on the Screws before the Arm hit the Release Ring, So I'm thinking I'm as far Clamped as I can get.. It Engages a little better.. I'll take better..

I'm Still not able to Hand Start it when Cold.. Hot/Warm is no Problem.. I'm thinking it's the 'Lack of Free Neutral' not letting the Engine swing to the next Cylinder and Fire.. Hot it has a Better Free Neutral.. Not Perfect..

Next Try is to Jack the T off the Ground, let it in High, and see if it will hand Crank..

What could Possibly go wrong?..

Thanks for the Help..

Cap