MTFCA Forum

A buddy of mine is going to pick up his first Model T (1922) next Tuesday. He helped me get my T going so I'm going to do the same for him. I have a couple of questions for the group.

1.) Is there anyone who will re-core a 1922 low radiator or is Bergs or Brassworks the only option to get a serviceable flat-tube radiator?

2.) Is there a guide anywhere on how to use a hand cranked coil tester (HCCT)? Another friend has a tester he got out of an old Ford dealership 50+ years ago and we'd like to get an idea of the condition of the coils. The previous owner of the T has been deceased a number of years and there is no info on what he did with the car restoration-wise.

I'm sure we'll have more questions....that's part of the fun

Tim,

Check with Steve Shotwell, I believe the Casual T's owns a Strobo Spark coil tester for the use of our members.

http://www.casualts.org/toolshare.htm

Any radiator shop that does repair work should be able to re-core any brass radiator. The shop here in New Orleans told me that I could have my non-T radiator replaced or re-cored for the same price (about $300). They would just reuse the top and lower tanks. The question is will the core look original, or does that matter to you.

varmint wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 17, 2021 11:41 am

Any radiator shop that does repair work should be able to re-core any brass radiator.

Not true. I've seen some real butcher jobs. The biggest problem seems to be that, unless they have worked on early radiators, they don't realize that these radiators can be seen and have to look nice and also have to fit within a close fitting radiator shell.

I had my radiator (24 roadster) recorded by Ferndale radiator, I believe. My overheating issues are now home! That was about 4-5 years ago. Aparently, he has done a lot of old radiator cores. It looks and works fine for me.

Thanks Dennis - Ferndale is an easy road trip so I think we'll check them out once we get the T home. Jerry, the buyer is a Casual T member so we're adding another T to the club.

Ditto re making sure the shop you go to has experience with antique auto radiators. Years ago, I spoke to several radiator shops who were honest and didn’t feel they could do the job. I finally found a shop that had an elderly gentleman that only worked on antique radiators. He worked part time at his own pace but got my work done. The owner said he wouldn’t let any of his other guys touch my radiator.

It seems that the only guys to be trusted with our radiators are near or beyond retirement age. My go-to guy retired recently and the fellow he referred me to said he's going to retire this October. It's a dying art in today's throw-away society.

Our go to guy was in his early 30's. He did great work, learned from his Dad and Grandpa, just could not make enough to keep the shop open and now is selling auto parts.

I have had three black re-cores over the years. The first two done in the late 60's. both were done without the stiffening bar that runs mount to mount. Cost about $35 back then. I still have one of those cars, 21 Touring. The radiator ran for about 30 years but developed small leaks at the solder joints. and I finally bought a new one. I believe the absence of the stiffening bar contributed to the leaks. My last re-core 27 Tudor, was in 1994. The shop was able to obtain a new core with the correct stiffening bar. It cost me $375 out the door. Now here in the Sacramento- Auburn area re-cores without the bar are running $550. For just a little bit more you can buy a new Berg's or Brassworks and never have to worry about it ever.

BE_ZERO_BE wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 17, 2021 11:40 am

People have used local shops to re-core a radiator.
Be sure to see if they have experience with antique radiators.

Here is a link to the HCCT Handbook sold by MTFCA.

https://modeltstore.myshopify.com/colle ... -patterson

I've had good luck by simply telling the radiator rebuild shop that this isn't a pressurized system. Have had three re-cored.

Just make sure they understand its not pressurised. I told a local shop that and they called and said it needed recored. I said it was a small leak. He told me it really started leaking at 7lbs and at 10lbs it leaked everywhere. I now have a recore.