MTFCA Forum

Can someone explain to me in a simple format as to how to set up TDC and proper timing position. Thank you. Frank

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I agree Mario....the "half between 3 and 4" position is as about as good as it gets. John Regan taught me that years ago.

The "Cheap Tool" only works on FORD made timers. It doesn't work on anything else. And if you find the correct Murray Fahnstock article showing this tool, it actually has a bend in it whereas the reproduction does not.

I use the Timing Indicator Kit from Snyders and it AIN"T cheap.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Prod ... hByKeyword

I use the crank handle to establish the angle using the angle feature on my cell phone.
I used to measure the angle of retardation by measuring the distance the crank handle moves from zero to retard. The distance is about 2 inches at the 8 inch crank length at 15 degrees of rotation.
Art Mirtes

Will_Vanderburg wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 18, 2021 11:50 am

The "Cheap Tool" only works on FORD made timers. It doesn't work on anything else. And if you find the correct Murray Fahnstock article showing this tool, it actually has a bend in it whereas the reproduction does not.

I use the Timing Indicator Kit from Snyders and it AIN"T cheap.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Prod ... hByKeyword

Hi Will, agree with you the cheap tool don't work for all but it gave you a good indication if you are too far away. I also used the timing kit sold by Snyder's and Lang's but found not working well for lower head. With Lower head I used the cheapest tool in the world, a McDonalds plastic straw.
Pull out the #1 spark plug.
Shine a light in the spark plug hole (flashlight on my cel)
Using the hand crank watch in the hole as you crank the engine. ...
To determine the exact place the spark should happen, I used a plastic straw from McDonalds.

Fellas - after verifying the piston is actually coming up on compression, the crank pulley pin will be horizontal a TDC - early T's have the advantage of no lower radiator valance so seeing at the crank pin is easy - not so on a valance equipped T - set your spark lever accordingly.

The Dauntless method worked great when setting up my 26, thank you Steve.

Hey Mario, if you can still get those plastic straws in O'Canada that's a plus, stock up now...there nearly outlawed here and considered hate speech if inquiring about them

Buster knows how to set DEAD center !

As stated above, the crank pin is horizontal at TDC. Of course, of those two choices , only one is correct. 3 O’clock ! When you find it, a simple mark like this will help you the rest of its life. Just reach in with a fingernail and you have it. I mark all my engines when Joe Bell gets done with them. Never use a paper or plastic straw again, no need to pull plugs. Think ahead and save time in the future.

One thing I almost never hear mentioned about setting TDC timing.

WATCH YOUR HANDS!

Some instructions tell you to turn the timer cover and listen for the coil buzz. All fine and well as long as you don’t get a free start! This can happen and having your hands near the timer cover puts them right in the area of the fan.

Most new T folks have no idea this is a possibility.

For me the method that Steve J has is about the best. Simple and straight to the point. Using a straw of some sort is as good gauge as you can get. Slightly different ways to achieve the same thing but simple always works the best.

Dan, when you're performing this timing operation you should have ALL the plugs out anyway. It's easier to crank the engine for one thing, plus, you can check each plug for spark when grounding them on the block. Now there's no worries about losing a hand on a free start! Straw or no straw, just having the crank pin halfway between "3 and 4" o'clock pretty much gives you the desired timing setting. I do believe S.J. even mentioned this earlier, and the venerable John Regan taught me this long long ago.

KISS ! I think my tip came from tinkering tips, by Ted Aschman. Great stuff in his books. Mario, I changed my picture, to show the crank pin horizontal and as you are facing the motor, mark the driver side at 3 O’Clock. That’s TDC You may have trouble finding a straw but you should always have about one good fingernail hanging around. . Check it in the dark, blindfolded, in a rainstorm, no pulling plugs, no searching for straws. Save the environment, make your wifey and friends proud!
Now , if you are parked on the side of the hill, you will have to figure that out.

I made an offset extension for a dial indicator and placed it against the #1 piston.

I turn the crank until the dial stops moving and record that reading. This is with #1 on the compression stroke. That is not TDC but close. To set the timing to the correct retard angle, continue turning the crank until the dial drops .087" for 15 degrees retard or .093" for 15.5 degrees, whichever you're are using. These readings only work with stock stroke and connecting rod lengths.

To find TDC you can rotate the crank to any convenient reading, such as .100" ATDC. Make a mark on the crank pully that aligns with a mark on the block. (I used a bent wire as a temporary pointer.) Continue turning the crank until the dial reaches the same .100" reading BTDC. Make another mark aligning with the block. True TDC will be at a point between these two marks.

Dropacent wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 21, 2021 9:27 pm

KISS ! I think my tip came from tinkering tips, by Ted Aschman. Great stuff in his books. Mario, I changed my picture, to show the crank pin horizontal and as you are facing the motor, mark the driver side at 3 O’Clock. That’s TDC You may have trouble finding a straw but you should always have about one good fingernail hanging around. . Check it in the dark, blindfolded, in a rainstorm, no pulling plugs, no searching for straws. Save the environment, make your wifey and friends proud!
Now , if you are parked on the side of the hill, you will have to figure that out.

Thank you Tim, I like the Mark idea, I will add this idea on my own process.

LOL keeping it simple, I just shine a light in the hole and watch the piston. When it comes up, stops, then starts to go down, I call it good and set my timing. As long as all pistons fire on the down stroke when starting on battery, it really can't kick back. There is more then enough travel on the quadrant to set the timing once it is running, generally running out of needed advance before running out quadrant on battery or magneto. Like the guys say with the Model A, as long as it first fires on the down stroke you will be good to go because after that, all adjustments are at the other end via the lever. I am not a notch counter, battery or magneto, I just pay attention to what the engine is telling me.