Yesterday I took my <23 Touring out for an extended drive 6 miles out and then 6 miles back. It's the first real extended drive I've done. Some stop and go, but mostly in high gear.
It took about 3 miles for the temp on the motometer to get into the circle, then it steadily climbed up to the top of the meter just as I was arriving at my destination.
When I got out and examined it I observed no steam coming out of the overflow or anywhere else, and no signs of the telltale gurgling that I heard on other occasions when overheated.
I'm running distilled water and Water Wetter.
Normal? Too hot?
Overheating Or . . . Not.
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- First Name: Pat
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- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926-7 roadster
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Re: Overheating Or . . . Not.
That sounds normal to me. If the system is full of coolant and is not boiling and spewing water and steam, you are OK. I have a T with a modern type temperature gauge on the water outlet. It routinely shows 210 to 230 on the gauge, but there is never any sign of boiling or coolant loss or any other sign of overheating. I conclude that the gauge is somewhat in error. Regardless of the gauge, I've driven the car several thousand miles in warm to hot weather at highway speeds with no boiling or coolant loss. If your car performs well and responds normally to the engine controls and rolls freely with no evidence of brake drag or transmission bands dragging and does not boil over, you're in good shape. A T will run around 200 F in summer weather. Unless you add a water pump, the engine has to get rather warm for coolant to begin circulating. Many experienced T people here do not recommend water pumps. I don't have one, and since there is no indication one is needed, I'll do without.
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Re: Overheating Or . . . Not.
After the car cools off, check the water level. If it is at least halfway up the top tank, it is fine. If it runs dry of coolant and overheats you run the risk of seizing the engine. That will damage the cylinders. I would expect the motometer is inacurrate. On my car it runs right in the center of the circle in hot weather.
Norm
Norm
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Re: Overheating Or . . . Not.
There's a difference between real boiling, with steam, and a little gurgle after shut down. The first is a problem. The latter is normal, and not a problem. If you have real boiling: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG96.html
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
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Re: Overheating Or . . . Not.
Probably an optimal temp for thermosyphon function. It would be instructive to read the temp on the block inlet. When a T really overheats, Old Faithful can look tame by comparison.
"Get a horse !"
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Re: Overheating Or . . . Not.
A note about water wetter. I used Water Wetter and distilled water in a Model A one summer. Just seemed like a good idea.
The block got very badly rusted. I had to clean it with rust remover.
I did not follow the directions which state use AT LEAST 15% ANTIFREEZE for street vehicles. By itself it will not protect against rust on iron.
I now just use 50/50 green antifreeze in my antique cars.
John
The block got very badly rusted. I had to clean it with rust remover.
I did not follow the directions which state use AT LEAST 15% ANTIFREEZE for street vehicles. By itself it will not protect against rust on iron.
I now just use 50/50 green antifreeze in my antique cars.
John