MTFCA Forum

Is is possible to put a 26 engine back into the car with the transmission cover and pedals all attached? A guy brought me a 26 engine all assembled and wants it back in the car but has the trans cover and all attached. Body is a coupe body.

Yes, I have done it. You need to tip the engine going in. Loosening the pedals so they can be rotated backwards helped clear the firewall. Use a lifting chain bolted to the water intake bolt hole and the other end on the rear manifold clamp stud hole using grade 8 bolts and washers, that should give you a good center of gravity that will allow you to tip the engine to get it under the firewall.

Lifter in No 2 spark plug hole give the angle and ease of sliding under the fire wall.

Yes but it makes it MUCH easier if you at least remove the reverse and brake pedal, I've done both ways, all 3 still in, and the aforementioned way. I will ALWAYS take the 2 pedals out if heaven forbid I ever have to remove the engine again.

With radiator out and manifolds off, either remove the steering column or take out the bolts and lean it back and upward in the front to get it out of the way of the engine. Use a lift or hang from a chain hoist by the second spark plug hole which will allow you to tilt the front of the engine upward. You can leave the pedals in place by tilting the engine in such a way to clear the firewall, then after it is past the firewall slide the pan ears along the frame rails as you lower the front of the engine into place. It is not hard to do, however, a bit hard to explain without actually doing it as I am explaining it. I would not recommend to use the water inlet for the job as you run the risk of damaging it and ruining the block.
Norm

The water inlet bolt hole is also used when attaching the bracket for an engine repair stand.

We too can remove the Engine in the RHD Models and have never had to alter the Steering Column or Transmission Pedals.
The “Nose up” angle is a bit frightening when clearing the Pedals through Firewall. We place metal strips over the exposed
body parts when sliding the two rear Engine supports rearward. Tie up the 4th Main Bearing!
Alan in Western Australia

Having 2 or more people to help tip the engine and angle it in makes it easier but a 1 man job is a little more of a task. It’s a matter of clearing the engine and parts as you maneuver the engine in. After the radiator is out of the car and the steering column is moved will make it easier. After you do it once the 2nd time will be easier if you do it by yourself. Been there and done that a few times.

Here are some video's look at them all just takes a few minutes to get the idea
One man job notice catch pans for oil
Removal part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pn0-duuG1Q
Removal part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBK0c8QrGvk Install part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ntnXVj3gMo Install part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aju9TYlicr0
This is a removal with hogs head in place and shows the tilt to clear the firewall https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXzq8FI4PA8 2 men & a kid -(possible hernia) but good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mEa5Fz2HaQ

I've never done it with an Improved Car, but many times with a 1915 and a 1923. Never had any help. Radiator off, steering wheel pulled back and sitting on the seat, wishbone loosened and dropped. I have to raise the body a couple of inches on the 1915. Later cars shouldn't need that. Nose way up, tail way down, pedals clear the firewall.

Nose up, tail down.

Thought I'd toss in a pic of when I took my engine out this spring, minus the 2 pedals. Did it alone. Put it back in alone also...used a coat hanger, some wire, and jack stand to position the drive tube/universal joint in the right spot and the engine mated up super easily!

Tom VanMeeteren wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 27, 2021 5:16 am

Is is possible to put a 26 engine back into the car with the transmission cover and pedals all attached? A guy brought me a 26 engine all assembled and wants it back in the car but has the trans cover and all attached. Body is a coupe body.

Yes. Remove the steering column @ frame, steering arm & firewall. Leave off the coil box. Motor needs a lot of angle. Line up motor & pull the nose toward the driver side to get the low pedal behind the firewall. Go in & straighten.

Something not mentioned yet is the wish bone. Have a long bar or 2x4 handy to pull it down to clear the bottom of the pan during installation or removal. The first video series makes it look harder than it actually is. The second video series (pre 26 T) with a lower firewall goes pretty smoothly. (removal with hogs head in place).
I personally remove the headlights, radiator diaper & hood shelves to prevent damage.

I just did the engine in my 26 Coupe. I did not remove the hogshead, pedals, or the steering. I had the cylinder head off when I removed it, but on when I installed it. It went in easier then it came out. So, leave the head on and pick it up from the #3 spark plug hole and slide it forward out of the mounts Then move to the #2 spark plug hole and lift and twist it to get it out. I did it by myself with out any issues. The hardest part was getting the u-joint lined up when putting it back in.

Not a coupe, but I’ve done it in my touring WITHOUT the aid of a hoist LOL