MTFCA Forum

My '14 has parts from Ts of many years. One assembly is an NH with the U-joint type NH spray needle. I would like to get a new needle as this one is pretty well knackered. This type of needle has a yoke that looks like it needs to be prized apart to remove the old one and then the new yoke must be compressed to trap the U joint part. Is this correct? If so, are there any tricks to making an easy and workmanlike job of it?

Paul

Paul

If yours is original and the pot metal swivel is messed and lug arms worn, best to get the complete set, new needle with yoke, and new sleeve with Univ. fitting. Yes, you assemble. Easy, just slightly crimp yoke arms onto the swivel u-joint. A small vise and placing the ends of the yoke on the jaws is a simple way. Using large pliers works, but control is limited.

Thanks Dan, I may do that. I'm not sure what I have now. It looks & feels good & solid although dry. No one, including me, has given it any lube in a long time. I didn't consider it a moving part. I just twiddle it before cold starts a tiny amount and then set it back once the motor gets up to temp.

Can you tell if this is a pot metal terror or a reliable steel assembly?

Paul

What you got there is a pre 25 needle with the ears bent up. You may still be ok-Your choke rod pull shaft collar has a set screw for adjusting.

Wow! That part shows some real creativity. I know about the collar that holds the primer rod in place, I'll be taking that off to see what is needed at the next work session.

Is the U-joint steel or pot metal? I might as well get the good stuff if I'm going to need it.

Paul

Hudson29 wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 03, 2021 7:23 pm

Is the U-joint steel or pot metal? I might as well get the good stuff if I'm going to need it.

Paul

The repo u- joints are cast from a type of ferrous metal, magnet sticks slightly. Last new one was coated with black paint and was sticky to work, removed the paint and the u-joint worked better.

Paul

If you are replacing that 'garage built' combo needle, with the new set from Lang's shown in my prior post (6213B)......you will also need the later lock or clamp nut. It has the tall cylinder that the upper split collar fits upon. You tighten the split collar just a bit to get resistance when you adjust the needle. Otherwise without a good resistance, the needle setting can back out or in and cause rough running down those bumpy roads!