MTFCA Forum

I have a question about frame extensions for the T. I read/saw somewhere that back in the day, if you wanted to install an auxiliary transmission, in lieu of shortening the drive shaft and tube, you simply (?) extended the frame 12" and of course the brake rods. Was there a "kit" for this or did you hunt up some "u" channel and cut/weld away. Anyone have any info on this?
Thanks
Jerry

Im not sure about the T cars. I have an aftermarket frame extension on my TT that Dave Stroud found on a farmers scrap pile. The TT has a Chigago 3 speed.

Warford sold an extension kit also.

You might consider building a new frame from new material, or buying a "hot rod" chassis and making it fit the T body and axles Of course, the body won't fit the extended frame, unless it's a truck or a 6 door tourer, or a pickup with a 10-foot bed... I wouldn't think the stock passenger T frame would take kindly to being stretched, without extensive re-working. A TT would be a different matter.

Some examples in these links. Unknown Kits and some DIY examples
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80 ... 1240317605 http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/17 ... 1303967715 http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/17 ... 1319349061 Extended Chassis Supplier Ads http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/25 ... 1339412743

Frank's second photo of the green frame is the one I extended on my 1917 shooting brake, rather than cut the driveshaft and radius rods. I joined two frames rather than add in a piece and have two joins each side. The frames were cut at 45 degrees to give a better joint. There is a flat plate inside each rail to reinforce the frame. It is riveted at the body mount brackets and the running board brackets, as well as either side of the welded joint. No good frames were wrecked in the process. One had already been cut and the other had a damaged front cross member and left hand rail.

I have worked on a TT which had frame extensions to turn it into a TTT, two ton truck. It was a factory made item, but I cannot recall the name of the manufacturer. It was not pleasant to drive, being really slow and cumbersome.

Allan from down under.

Allans' method of lengthening a frame is a very good way to do it, although, cutting the joints on a 45* angle is not necessary, as long as a 100% weld is made for the joint. The riveted (or bolted) plate inside of the rail is a VERY good idea. There is a reason why frames are put together with bolts or rivets, they have to FLEX! DO NOT be tempted to "box" the weld joint by welding in a plate on the inner flanges of the rail. That in effect makes a box tube that will NOT flex as the rest of the frame rail will. That WILL cause the frame to crack at the end of the boxed area at some time in the future. I've lengthened and shortened many truck frames including over the road truck frames in the past and have seen this happen many times. Many are scared of messing with frames, no need to be if you do some research. Most aren't made of anything exotic other than over the road trucks. They do have some high tensile steel, but that is very easily dealt with with the correct welding rod and methods. JMHO Dave

David, I was copying the longer weld method used when our Leyland tipper was factory made on a lengthened chassis. It had 18" added into the frame to accommodate a longer than usual body which could be converted into a flatbed. One roadside transport director commented that it would never be allowed these days.
When questioned he also mentioned that today's truck frames are made of some rather more exotic steels than those of the 1970's.

Allan from down under.

"Do not drill flange or weld rail"

Here is one Model T car extension. This was put out by a company called Universal. They went the whole hog not only lengthening the frame but adding a body new mudguards Rolls Royce type radiator shell . It even could be converted into sleeping compartment it was so long. In NSW here in Australia the HOT Rod guys have to box in any chassis frame to pass inspection for registration??

pictures didn't post try again.

Thanks for all the info and suggestions, I'll see what is best for me!
Thanks
Jerry

Hi Jerry,
When I built my fire truck ( it is on a car chassis)I removed the rear crossmember and pressed about three feet of the rear of another frame that was once a trailer made from a T frame. I was able to make the frame 13 1/4" longer for a Muncie transmission. I got the idea from Kirt Wright he was making a speedster with a Warford in it. It was pretty much all I could do to get it to the 13 1/4" but Kirt was able to get it to the 12" for a Warford.
Then you bolt it together.
Craig.