MTFCA Forum

Hope to get some help. I have a model T Ford front axle it has a slight curve to it, accident or design?
Any help would be appreciated. Is there a front and back?
Thanks!!
Steve

No front or back. If the ‘curve’ is on top and in the middle, it’s probably a 1927. If its front or back; they were probably pulling stumps and you need to find a 30 ton hydraulic press.

Thanks George,
it has a slight bend either from hitting something or pulling something. I guess the axle should be strait. In the book it shows tying a string from king pin hole to king pin hole, I can do that to correct the curve. I have a 20 ton hope that will do.
Thanks again!

A 20 ton press should do it. There’s a 4 pc tool set in the ModelT Service Manual that someone will post showing what a straightened axle looks like. No heat necessary.

Yes there is a front and back if you haven't removed the perch's

As Frank said, there’s only a front/back if the perches are installed. If they are, you’re usually better off leaving them be. They can be a real bear to get out and often get damaged in the process. If you don’t have access to a press, you can use a floor jack and chains. It’s not the safest method, but it works.

I have front axles that have been Stevens Tool repaired and straighten. Dan

How do you tell the front of a front axle?

James, there is no front or back. The king pin and the perch holes are all in line when the axle is straight, so it can be fitted either way. What needs to be kept in mind is the spring perches have an in-built angle between the vertical shaft and the horizontal shackle holes. That angle is what determines the caster in the axle when fitted to the car. When they are fitted to the axle, then there is a front and back. When installed in the car correctly, the king pins will be inclined, leaning back a little at the top, towards the rear of the car.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

The axle beam is same on front and back, however the shackle perches are right and left. They should be installed in such a way that the axle is slightly tilted forward at the lower edge. There are also right and left spindles. The spindles are installed to the right nut turns right to loosen. Threads are made opposite from most bolts. The reason is because the threaded wheel bearing should not tighten from the spinning of the wheel. The washer, jamb nut and cotter pin keep it from spinning off as you drive.
When you pull the car with a rope or chain or when tying down on a trailer, be sure to fasten the tow strap or tie down straps to the chassis or to the spring right where it attaches to the perch. That way you won't bend the axle or pull out the socket from the wishbone.
Norm

Some pics to align

Thanks guys,
That was great input from all of you.
I have removed the perches. I'll have to make sure they go back the right way
I will follow your advise. Steve!!

Frank,

Thanks for posting the photo above. Do you or anyone know if there are alignment pins available for purchase from a commercial source? I'd like to check several axles.

Have a great day,
Dom

I made mine from round stock, turned the ends to a point in the lathe & purchased lock collars from McMaster-Carr.

Dom Denio wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 14, 2021 8:44 am

Frank,
Thanks for posting the photo above. Do you or anyone know if there are alignment pins available for purchase from a commercial source? I'd like to check several axles.
Have a great day,
Dom

I don't know of any available. What condition is the rest of the axle in. Do the lower holes for the spindle bolts (kingpins) have good threads? If not look for a good used axle, no sense trying to fix it with too many issues. Since you have the perches out (the hardest part) consider the effort to get everything back to normal. Getting some rusty perches out of an axle can be a real challenge. You can get a reasonable idea of the axles straightness by using a string from the edge of one hole to the corresponding on on the other. The rods or dowels will show a twist in the axle that the pins don't reflect. There are plenty of good used axles around so consider the efforts - If your doing a speedster check into purchasing a dropped axle to lower the front end https://www.droppedaxles.com/ford-dropped-axles-0 You need to be carful in t he amount to allow for clearance around the tie rod and wishbone

Only the passenger side spindle is LH thread (lefty tighty, righty loosy). Driver’s side spindle is normal RH thread (righty tighty, lefty loosy). Do not heat when straightening or you risk losing the original temper. A machine shop can straighten it for you for a nominal fee. Jim Patrick

Jim, the right hand spindle has a left hand thread. The left hand spindle has a right hand thread. Referring to passenger and driver side can be confusing, as it depends on which side the steering wheel is.

Allan from down under.

Allan wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 14, 2021 7:09 pm

Jim, the right hand spindle has a left hand thread. The left hand spindle has a right hand thread. Referring to passenger and driver side can be confusing, as it depends on which side the steering wheel is.

Allan from down under.

When sitting properly in the drivers seat the persons right side is the right side of the car and their left side is the left side. Doesn't matter which side the steering wheel is on. Who's on First https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82mIqZGRBz4

That's right Frank. The right side is always the same side, just as is the left. The passenger side can be either side, depending on where the driver sits.

Allan from down under.

I opened the post from TRDxB2 and in part of it showed the restoration of a 1968 Rolls Royce. What a great story from junkyard to almost completed car over a 2 year period. We did the same thing with a 1969 4 door over 20 year plan. Thanks for posting it was great to see. Wish we had seen it in early 90's as it may have changed how we did our car.
We still have the car and enjoy driving it when ever we can as well as the T.
Nick.