Stuck in Gear after Sitting for some time

[Ed Gallagher]

My 26 T had the transmission rebuilt many years ago. I'm finally getting to the restoration. I would occasionally crank the engine over the years. Now I had it on jacks and when I crank a wheel turns. Off the jacks and it won't roll. Something is locking it up in gear. Any suggestions on cause and how to fix? Thanks in advance.

[Norman Kling]

If it has been parked with the lever in neutral or with the brake on, that the clutch disks might be stuck. Try to get lit started while it is on jacks. Then move the lever all the way forward and push the pedal into low. Then try the reverse. This will shift into either low or reverse and should unstick the clutch dlisks. It is best to park the T where it is level and put chocks under the wheels to keep it from rolling and then leave the lever forward which will keep the disks together. Then as the oil thickens when it cools off, it will not cause the disks to stick.

If this is not the cause, then you have a bigger problem. But if it was running when parked, this is the most likely cause.
Norm

[Kerry]

Norm, with the brake lever all the way forward is top gear, trying for low or reverse will just stall out the engine, putting the lever 1/2 way and then try for a low or reverse to unstick a frozen clutch pack.

[Steve Jelf]

I can think of three ways for a T to be stuck in gear.

1 Jammed 3330 spacer (Not in a 1926);

2 Disks sticking on rough lugs (Unlikely on a 1926);

3 Disks stuck together by gummy oil (Possible for all years).

Is there a #4?

[AndreFordT]

Norman Is right about the way to try to free the clutch, only for your security put both rear wheels on a jack stand before trying to start the engine.

Good luck
Andre
This time from Bonaire, not Belgium.

[Kerry]

Andre, it makes no sense to try to free the clutch pack with the transmission in top gear, the clutch is still under full spring pressure, with a search of the problem on the MTFCA back in Oct 2012 Norman dose post that the hand brake needs to be in neutral to try and free the clutch with low to reverse engagement.

[AndreFordT]

You are right with the reverse, you need neutral but you can get neutral with the clutch pedal. As the handbrake is full forwards you can freely move the two pedals and try to free the clutch by moving the pedals one up one down.

Andre
Bonaire

[Kerry]

Not really, you still have direct drive regardless of the position of the high low pedal until the clutch pack becomes unstuck, if it doesn't let go then trying to select low will only stall the engine, or break something.

[TXGOAT2]

I'd think putting the lever in "neutral" (with the clutch stuck) would have the car in high, and that forcefully rocking it back and forth would probably unstick the clutch. If not, 1. Check all linkage. 2. I would suggest getting the engine in running order, if it isn't already, then place the rear of the car on secure stands and start and run the engine with the lever all the way forward. I'd run it at about 1,000 rpm until the engine and transmission were at full operating temperature, allowing vibration and hot oil to act on the clutch. Then, still at about 1,000 rpm, I'd try moving the lever from high back through neutral to fully pulled back several times. If the clutch remained stuck, I'd put the lever in the mid position and run the engine about 600 rpm and step down on the low, then the reverse pedal one after the other several times, or put the wheels on the ground, lever in "neutral", and try rocking it as suggested above.