MTFCA Forum

So I'm trying to instal the radiator on my 26/7 touring. I have the diagram of how it all goes together and I understand how I can draw up the bolt with the nut compressing the spring in the frame. Then put in a block of wood to hod it. I'm also using the correct 26/7 bolt and spring kit.

My question is how do you compress the top spring? I don't want to push down too hard. Should I use a clamp with rubber ends to pull it down compressing the upper spring?

Robert a good method is to come up from the bottom with a large flat bladed screw driver. Don't forget the cotter pins in the bottom of the studs, then back them out until they jam against the cotter pin on the bottom side of the plate. Use a double nut jam method on the top of the stud. It will give enough to get them started.

Hope this Helps,

Hank

Thanks Hank. I have to ask what's the double nut jam? Being a Marine for 30 years I have an idea but I bet it's not what you're talking about. Ha!!!

If you do as Hank suggests and wind the stud back out of the plate until it jams on the split pin, you will have the maximum length of stud to deal with. If everything else is correct, there will be enough thread exposed to start the nut. The only tension on the spring will then be that applied when the nut is wound on just enough to insert its split pin.

Allan from down under.

We just purchased a '27 from my best friends estate. He put on the correct tall radiator/shell and used the correct long radiator mounting bolt kit. Somewhere along the line, things did not go as planned as he added 4 washers to each side as the bolts were too long. Having to correct this AND having to correct the front fender brace mounting bolts, I used a short radiator bolt kit. Worked like a charm.

I put each stud through the frame, added the lower spring, then put on the flat plate nut, added the cotter pin, backed out the stud until the cotter pin came up to the plate allowing the lower spring to relax. Then I set on the top springs and lower cup. Placing the radiator on the cups compressed the springs enough so when I added the top cup, there were just a couple of stud threads sticking out. I threaded on the top nut and tightened down enough to get the top cotter pin in. Fit like a charm. Still can't figure out why the short mount kit worked when the long mount kit was too long. It seems like everything is '27 as it should be but mounting kit is definitely not a '27. Fits and looks good now.

Good Luck.

Use a cold chisel to wedge the lower stud assembly away from the lower edge of the frame. This will raise the stud up as much as you need to start and turn the top nut by hand. Once the top nut is tightened the chisel falls out.

Install a regularly 3/8 x 24 thread nut and another, tighten the two together jamming the two against each other (Double Nut).

Now back out until the cotter pin is making a good contact against the bottom of the plate. Remove the nuts in reverse order.

Hank

First of all you need to use studs, not a bolt. I think there are two different lengths of studs. You may have the wrong length stud.

The springs from all the vendors have been incorrect for several years now. They are too big and too heavy and just about impossible to install properly.

Just a thought. How about compressing them in a vise and tying them with twine, then cutting the twine after they are installed?

All good info thanks. Adam you are correct the springs are very heavy. Larry I do have the studs that I'm using. I just called them bolts.

Mopar_man wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 01, 2021 8:33 pm

So I'm trying to instal the radiator on my 26/7 touring. I have the diagram of how it all goes together and I understand how I can draw up the bolt with the nut compressing the spring in the frame. Then put in a block of wood to hod it. I'm also using the correct 26/7 bolt and spring kit.

My question is how do you compress the top spring? I don't want to push down too hard. Should I use a clamp with rubber ends to pull it down compressing the upper spring?

I find that the proper parts, in the proper order, with a screwdriver or block under the nut bar gives a thread or 2 above the cup. Enough to start the top castle nut. You sure your kit has the correct length studs?

I'll second that Steve. I use very light springs on the alloy hood on my 1912 van. It do not require much clamping force to hold a hood down.

Allan from down under.