How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

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Steve Jelf
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How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Steve Jelf » Mon Sep 20, 2021 4:04 pm

Use the hub puller, right? I did, using along cheater, and the wheel is stuck so tight that the puller came part way off the hub at an angle. Now I think that the threads on the hub and the puller are so boogered up that I'm afraid to try using it again and doing even more damage. I tried the old trick of loosening the nut, pinning it, and driving around the yard on the flat tire. Still stuck tight. The tire doesn't look to be seriously damaged, so I can probably clean it up and reinstall it with a new tube and drive around some more with the loosened nut. Any suggestions for getting the wheel loose if that doesn't do it? Those rear wheels will need to come off soon so I can install new inner axle seals.
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by speedytinc » Mon Sep 20, 2021 4:12 pm

I ruined 2 wheel pullers on a bad hub. If it will still hold. tension it with the puller( nut pinned off 1 turn) & drive untill it needs more tightening.
If the puller wont hold, with a full tire, & the nut out 1 turn & pinned, Drive it on solid surfaces until it loosens. Never lost this fight, YET.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Henry K. Lee » Mon Sep 20, 2021 4:28 pm

When you re-install, use a little nickel anti-seize on those tapers. No problem ever again.

Hank

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Humblej » Mon Sep 20, 2021 4:51 pm

If you are using a Ford hub puller that screws on the hub cap threads and has a bolt that screws thru the end, it is a combination of tightening the bolt and hitting the bolt with a hammer many times, tighten more, hit more, repeat until the wheel comes loose. If you are just trying to remove the wheel by turning the bolt it isnt going to work. If you are using a cheater to apply more force to the bolt STOP or you will ruin the puller and or the hub cap threads. The jarring from pounding is needed more than the force of the bolt pulling. The wheel needs to be jacked up off the ground so as to not dampen the shock of the hammer blows and place any additional forces on the hub to axle connection. Get that wheel and axle vibrating and it is going to come loose. OK, so what to do if the hub cap threads and or puller are too damaged to continue you ask, use a wheel knocker. A wheel knocker is a large steel nut about 2 inches long that screws over the axle threads and seats on the end of the axle. Pounding it repeatedly with a large hammer not much bigger than a common claw hammer, will vibrate the hub off. If you need one PM me with your address and I will loan you mine. Do not use an axle nut as a knocker, it is too small and will ruin the axle threads.


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by speedytinc » Mon Sep 20, 2021 5:05 pm

Humblej wrote:
Mon Sep 20, 2021 4:51 pm
If you are using a Ford hub puller that screws on the hub cap threads and has a bolt that screws thru the end, it is a combination of tightening the bolt and hitting the bolt with a hammer many times, tighten more, hit more, repeat until the wheel comes loose. If you are just trying to remove the wheel by turning the bolt it isnt going to work. If you are using a cheater to apply more force to the bolt STOP or you will ruin the puller and or the hub cap threads. The jarring from pounding is needed more than the force of the bolt pulling. The wheel needs to be jacked up off the ground so as to not dampen the shock of the hammer blows and place any additional forces on the hub to axle connection. Get that wheel and axle vibrating and it is going to come loose.
my suggestion applies when the correct procedure you describe doesnt work.
I have had a few that were that stuck & didnt want to beat on the puller any further.
A cheater bar would only strip those fine threads as you said. The weak link.
I have even put a little valve lapping compound to get max grip on the puller threads.


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by John Dow » Mon Sep 20, 2021 5:05 pm

Try jacking up the opposite rear wheel with the wheel puller tightly in place, strike the center bolt with "authority" using an engineer's hammer. This method worked well for me on a hopelessly stuck rear wheel.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by George Mills » Mon Sep 20, 2021 5:06 pm

Do as Jeff H sez...

I had one time where it sure seemed welded.

Did the tension, beat with hammer trick for a week....every day for a week...it came off one day with a loud clang as it popped...I was sitting aside the car eating a sandwich! Scared me to death as it popped.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Humblej » Mon Sep 20, 2021 5:15 pm

Here is a picture of a Ford wheel puller and a wheel knocker. Both work about equally well but take time and a lot of pounding. Everyone should have a wheel knocker in their on-the-road tool box.
20210920_170909.jpg
Last edited by Humblej on Mon Sep 20, 2021 5:22 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by TWrenn » Mon Sep 20, 2021 5:18 pm

I wonder how many times it's forgotten to fully release the hand brake lever also? A fully applied parking brake may not cause all the difficulty, but it sure can't help any. Just a thought.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by DanTreace » Mon Sep 20, 2021 5:20 pm

Some don't like the 'Knock-Offs". But they work for me on stubborn rear hubs.

The Knock Off threads all the way on the axle end, butts the axle end into the tool, so threads on the axle are protected.

Then lift up the opposite wheel with a jack.

Leave the stuck hub wheel on the floor, and whack that Knock Off tool with a big sledge head hammer , 3 1/2lbs. with 9" handle and give a quick, sharp swift smack. Swing it.

After two or three, sometimes more, that hub will 'pop' back off the axle taper with firecracker sound, and be loose again!.




Wheel puller instructions - Copy.jpg
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by jsaylor » Mon Sep 20, 2021 6:01 pm

I have had good luck using my impact wrench on the puller. Seems to work better that the cheater bar. I once pulled the threads right out of the center of a puller using a too long cheater.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by CudaMan » Mon Sep 20, 2021 6:20 pm

I assume you already have the opposite wheel jacked up in the air?

Also, I'm assuming that before you installed the puller you removed the axle nut, then re-installed the nut upside down flush with the end of the axle to protect the threads and keep the end of the axle from mushrooming?

If you can, remove the puller, clean up the puller and hub threads, and re-install the puller straight. Really tighten down the thread clamping bolt so that the puller threads grip the hub threads tightly. Tighten the center bolt tightly, but not so much that you pull the hub threads again.

Regarding the hammer, bigger is better, I use a hand sledge. Give the puller a few good whacks, then try to tighten the center bolt a bit, then more whacks, repeat as needed. At some point, the center bolt will spin freely when you go to tighten it. That's the sign that the hub has released from the taper and you can slide the wheel off. :)
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by perry kete » Mon Sep 20, 2021 8:19 pm

Steve,

If your threads arent too messed up on the axle I have a thread chaser you could borrow. Just let me know.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by It's Bill » Mon Sep 20, 2021 9:25 pm

None of these techniques have worked for me. I even tried a large air hammer with the knocker. I did not use a torch on the hubs yet for fear of ruining the axle seals. Not sure if it would help anyway. I should mention that the hubs, axles, and keys are all new from Lang and were absolutely perfect fits. I did use anti seize while assembling.

If you get yours apart without destroying the parts, please enlighten us (me).

Ugh, Bill


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Scott_Conger » Mon Sep 20, 2021 9:41 pm

as difficult as it is to disagree with Hank, in this situation I'll say that Anti Seize on a non-releasing taper design is an absolute NO-NO. The assembly is designed to be non-releasing and should require mechanical "oomph" to get it to release. I agree that it should aid in releasing the taper if applied, but from a design standpoint, that is counter to the design and if releasing rather than retention was the design objective, the taper would be a much quicker taper.

Bill, with respect to your problem, it is separate from using or not using anti-seize. It is an issue with putting a steel hub on a steel shaft. It is a sad fact that the steel hubs introduced some 7 or so years ago are now at the age that they must come off for servicing and guess what? Like yours, they are not coming off. It's a real problem and it is a design of materials problem. Steel/steel fit thusly is a big NO-NO, too. Now, steel/Ductile iron - thumbs up. The new hubs are great but I have found can only be safely fit with a thin shim between the axle and hub and still expect it to come off. The OEM really should reconsider the product's material spec and consider something else or at least remain anonymous for their own safety's sake ;) I thought they were wonderful until I encountered my first seized assembly (not long after initial build, too). Too bad, because they are otherwise a real quality product...they just need to come with a warning.

My only suggestion is to be persuasive while remaining prudent. It will come off, and will hopefully come off in your lifetime.
Last edited by Scott_Conger on Mon Sep 20, 2021 10:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Norman Kling » Mon Sep 20, 2021 9:45 pm

This method works if you have air in the tires. Back off the nut until flush with the end of the axle then install the puller. Do not over tighten it, but tighten it enough to be good pressure on the axle, but not enough to strip the threads. Then start up the car and drive around. If you can make some turns while driving it helps. After you drive a short way, try tightening the puller. If it turns easily, go back and remove the wheel. Another way I have removed wheels, is I have an end of a driveshaft about 10 inches long with the threads which hold the pinion gear. This driveshaft broke when I first got the car. Someone before me had welded the driveshaft and it was only welded around the outside edge. Probably had been used for some type of in driveshaft auxiliary transmission which had been removed before I got the car. anyway, I loosen the nut on the end of the axle and then screw the end of the driveshaft into the nut, which just happens to be the same size thread. I screw things in until the end of the driveshaft contacts the end of the axle. Then I jack up the opposite wheel with the wheel I am trying to pull is on the ground. Chock the front wheels, but do not set the parking brake. Then I give the cut off end of the driveshaft a few blows with a sledge hammer and it usually pops right off. This would serve as a driver. The one pictures above would be better probably.
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by CudaMan » Tue Sep 21, 2021 12:07 pm

Steve, if you are able to get the crooked puller off the hub, you can use a thread file or a Stevens T-181 tool to clean up the hub threads. I have one of these that I bought on Amazon, but other places also carry it. It requires some fussing, but does an adequate job.

If the internal threads in the puller are toast, then a thread file or a new puller may be your only choice.
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Ruxstel24 » Tue Sep 21, 2021 12:10 pm

I have a couple knockers for sale in the classified.
I probably have a hub too if worse comes to worse.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by perry kete » Tue Sep 21, 2021 12:43 pm

There is a house down the street where the girls will rent you knockers! :shock: :o :roll:
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by jab35 » Wed Sep 22, 2021 1:13 pm

Henry Lee:
What is the reason for using the Nickel anti sieze? And where can it be obtained? Local NAPA only has one type, which I believe is Al and/or Cu. Thanks, jb


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Jerry VanOoteghem » Wed Sep 22, 2021 1:43 pm

jab35 wrote:
Wed Sep 22, 2021 1:13 pm
Henry Lee:
What is the reason for using the Nickel anti sieze? And where can it be obtained? Local NAPA only has one type, which I believe is Al and/or Cu. Thanks, jb
You can find it on eBay. I just bought some there for work. Was about 1/2 the regular price from other sources. However, I agree with Scott C. and would not use it on an axle taper.


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by jab35 » Wed Sep 22, 2021 4:26 pm

I found it on line, thanks. But why Nickle? And I understand the caution against using anything on axle taper-hub fittings. Thanks, jb


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Jerry VanOoteghem » Wed Sep 22, 2021 7:12 pm

jab35 wrote:
Wed Sep 22, 2021 4:26 pm
I found it on line, thanks. But why Nickle? And I understand the caution against using anything on axle taper-hub fittings. Thanks, jb
Nickle is better suited for use with stainless steel and also may be less reactive in acidic atmospheres.

"Made with graphite and nickel, these lubricants can be used in environments with extreme heat and harsh chemicals, such as acetylene and ammonia, where antiseize lubricants with copper can't. Also known as thread lubricants, antiseize lubricants prevent threaded fasteners and close-fitting parts from locking together due to corrosion, contamination, or heat."

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by CudaMan » Wed Sep 22, 2021 7:37 pm

Steve, any news?
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by otrcman » Wed Sep 22, 2021 8:01 pm

Just to bolster your optimism, Steve, here is my story:

When I took my rear wheels off a couple years ago, the regular puller worked like a charm on the first wheel. The second wheel was a different story. I tightened the center bolt on the puller until I was afraid that I'd strip the threads on the hub. Then I called my friend John Semprez and said, "HELP !!!!!"

John reassured me that the wheel would come off somehow. His advice was to first tap the hub all around the nose with a normal ball peen hammer. Check to see of the puller bolt could be tightened after tapping. If the bolt remained tight, walk away and do something else for the rest of the day. Then, the next morning, tap it several times and re-try the tightness of the puller.

On about the fourth day, I tried to retighten the puller bolt and I could turn it with my fingers. Some time during the night, the hub had popped loose from the axle. I never did find out what John's Plan B was.

And everybody lived happily ever after.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Henry K. Lee » Wed Sep 22, 2021 8:04 pm

There has always been an old stigma against this method..., but science has proven otherwise. I go with "proven methods" and prove in the pudding.

The method used in the time is not perfect as a fit.., (use a parting compound) blue dye. It will show this to be true and normally a real tight fit in the rear larger section and not so perfect in the lower taper. The metal in the hub is of a milder steel vs the hardened axles. In turn and if you remember high school physics, "a synthetic object in motion with a carbon metal in center of motion causes electricity".

Now we are making a sort of electro-magnetic polarity which speeds up up the corrosion process basically welding itself to the axle with rust as a by product. Years in the military as a IPI inspector, Quality Control Officer, and "Red X Release" focal point, on multi-million dollar aircraft I have witnessed and been part of the solutions of failed procedures and engineering.

Many years back, OMC company destroyed many of their engines by not following the rule of a very light finger smear worth of anti-seize compound. The taper on their flywheels to crankshafts could never be removed by the normal mechanics. 2 each A-10A aircraft are in museums because the cone fittings in the ammunition drums destroyed the airframe.., no anti-seize again was the culprit. In hardened steel objects under load, using a proper fitted axle shim (very thin .002") I recommend. Why? Differences hardness of metals on attachment, and missed machined items do need a make up of a softer material to "Fill in imperfections" of the surfaces to be assembled. And it absorbs harmonics which fatigues metal very fast (in turn causes your rear wheel to slightly come loose, sheared axle keys or even worst, cracked out keyway wells).

Applying a very thin wipe of "Nickel base anti-seize compound" is non corrosive to the steel components. Copper base is not recommended for other reasons. After tighten the wheel hub retaining nut and installing the cotter pin, drive and recheck the torque after about ten miles. The wheel hub assembly will always release with minimal effort 20 years later.

Hope this clarifies any doubt on my reasoning, I will always back my word with proven results and experiences.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Scott_Conger » Wed Sep 22, 2021 8:44 pm

Hank your second post of "a very thin wipe" has at least to me, a very different connotation than your first admonition to "use a little anti-sieze". The first was in my mind, and I was afraid, others, to be a far too large of an application. Your followup which to me clarified things really makes the anti seize a "friendly contaminant" preventing fretting, as opposed to the potential measurable film which could cause havoc even after retorquing. Based on my understanding of your clarified technique, I can agree.

My advice of using a dry shim, I felt, took the ambiguity of the amount ("a little") of anti seize out of the equation. Happily, I now can not disagree with your more clearly defined application. Life is good.
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Henry K. Lee » Wed Sep 22, 2021 9:00 pm

Thanks Scott.., We all need to clarify with better instructions! Dah on me!

If you need a little anti-seize.., it is in little packets at all major auto parts for your spark plug threads!

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Michael Peternell » Wed Sep 22, 2021 9:38 pm

I was always taught it's the "stretch of the bolt that holds things tight" not the friction of dry metal on metal.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Henry K. Lee » Wed Sep 22, 2021 9:55 pm

Michael Peternell wrote:
Wed Sep 22, 2021 9:38 pm
I was always taught it's the "stretch of the bolt that holds things tight" not the friction of dry metal on metal.
Oh Grasshopper.., time for you to go to the head of the class!!!!! Friction retention is a by product!

Hank


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Scott_Conger » Wed Sep 22, 2021 10:01 pm

Michael

that's true with flat on flat, but not necessarily the case on tapers...that's why (for instance) a Morse taper "sticks" so fiercely and requires wedges to release a chuck from its arbor. Anything below 14 degree included angle is considered a self-locking taper.

Under the unusual flexing nature of the Ford axle, the nut and threads are under tension, as you presume, which keeps flexure from breaking or releasing the taper...to that extent, you are correct. In any event, the original ductile iron against steel axle will more readily release after many seasons of being seated compared to steel-on-steel of repro hubs and a new axle with a perfect surface. Those two surfaces can very quickly "weld" themselves together as Bill is so sadly finding out. When I experienced my first stuck wheel/axle which I put together I was beyond chagrined to find that what should be expected to occur actually occurred - it didn't dawn on me when I put it together. It was a doozy to get apart and that was after 3 months and almost no miles.

Consider the steering arm or any modern ball-joint. You can take the nut off, but you will most certainly require a pickle-fork or similar wedge or MASSIVE puller to break the tapered joint once it's been pulled together under heavy tension.
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Steve Jelf
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Steve Jelf » Wed Sep 22, 2021 10:15 pm

...any news?

Sorry, I have other, more pressing, business demanding my attention. I hope I can get back to this tomorrow or Friday.
The inevitable often happens.
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It's Bill
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by It's Bill » Wed Sep 22, 2021 10:41 pm

What do you guys think of using a small tip torch to heat the hub in small areas, then letting it cool? Would that help break the grip, or just cause more problems?

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Henry K. Lee
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Henry K. Lee » Thu Sep 23, 2021 7:56 am

We are going to modify all axles for either a pickle fork or morse taper. I like this idea! LOL

Scott, I think we are in for a long winter and this will keep you busy. LOL


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Scott_Conger » Thu Sep 23, 2021 9:45 am

Better that, than sitting in a lawn chair all day watching traffic go by Hank!

Particularly since about only 1 car goes by per day and it's a long hike to the bathroom, it's not really an option. We need more trees here.

:lol:
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Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Jerry VanOoteghem » Thu Sep 23, 2021 1:01 pm

Scott_Conger wrote:
Wed Sep 22, 2021 10:01 pm
Michael

that's true with flat on flat, but not necessarily the case on tapers...that's why (for instance) a Morse taper "sticks" so fiercely and requires wedges to release a chuck from its arbor. Anything below 14 degree included angle is considered a self-locking taper.

Under the unusual flexing nature of the Ford axle, the nut and threads are under tension, as you presume, which keeps flexure from breaking or releasing the taper...to that extent, you are correct. In any event, the original ductile iron against steel axle will more readily release after many seasons of being seated compared to steel-on-steel of repro hubs and a new axle with a perfect surface. Those two surfaces can very quickly "weld" themselves together as Bill is so sadly finding out. When I experienced my first stuck wheel/axle which I put together I was beyond chagrined to find that what should be expected to occur actually occurred - it didn't dawn on me when I put it together. It was a doozy to get apart and that was after 3 months and almost no miles.

Consider the steering arm or any modern ball-joint. You can take the nut off, but you will most certainly require a pickle-fork or similar wedge or MASSIVE puller to break the tapered joint once it's been pulled together under heavy tension.
Scott,

I'm thinking that the 2 "perfect" tapers involved with a new axle & a new hub are more of a factor than the mating of similar metals. Just conjecture of course. I wonder how well an NOS axle shaft would separate from an NOS hub? Those original hubs didn't necessarily have the greatest surface finish in them, which probably aided in disassembly. Anyway, just rambling out loud... Thanks. ;)


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Norman Kling » Thu Sep 23, 2021 9:19 pm

If all else fails, you might try using two flat metal plates such as 1" or 1 1/2" x3/15" flat steel behind the wood spokes with a large double jaw puller. That will usually do the job. Just be careful not to break the spokes.
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by otrcman » Fri Sep 24, 2021 12:05 am

Bill Hoffer asked, "What do you guys think of using a small tip torch to heat the hub in small areas, then letting it cool?"

Bill, I could certainly be wrong, but I think that spot heating as you describe will tighten the hub on the shaft, not loosen it. I have used spot heating to shrink local spots in sheet metal, and it is pretty effective. My understanding is that the spot heating works thusly:

1. Localized hot spot expands with heat and also softens slightly.

2. The surrounding metal retains its original size and strength.

3. The heated spot is compressed because it is constrained by the surrounding cool metal.

4. When the hot spot is allowed to cool, it shrinks slightly.

5. In the end, you wind up with a local spot in tension, trying to make the drum fit tighter on the shaft.


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by It's Bill » Fri Sep 24, 2021 8:04 am

Thanks for the reply Dick. I wondered about that - if the hub would shrink on tighter. Perhaps heating the entire circumference of the hub followed by whacking an axle knocker would work? But how hot is hot enough?

I'm going to go slow here... 8-)


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Virtus » Fri Sep 24, 2021 8:49 am

In my experience the heating of metal with a view to separate shafts and bearings is more successful when cooling with copious amounts of cold water. This rapid contraction will separate steels of different types .


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by speedytinc » Fri Sep 24, 2021 9:14 am

It's Bill wrote:
Fri Sep 24, 2021 8:04 am
Thanks for the reply Dick. I wondered about that - if the hub would shrink on tighter. Perhaps heating the entire circumference of the hub followed by whacking an axle knocker would work? But how hot is hot enough?

I'm going to go slow here... 8-)
I dont think you can get it hot enough without destroying the surrounding paint.
With that in mind, a last ditch effort of desperation.


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by otrcman » Fri Sep 24, 2021 11:33 am

It's Bill wrote:
Fri Sep 24, 2021 8:04 am
........But how hot is hot enough?
How hot ? The idea we're working on here is that metal expands when we heat it. Even heating from 72° to 73° causes some expansion. So the question becomes, "how much expansion do you need to make the hub turn loose?" And nobody knows the answer to that question until they give it a try.

The good news is that you won't cause any metal shrinkage providing you don't heat above about 1000°F. So bringing the hub up to, say, the boiling point of water, won't do any harm at all; probably not even to the paint. And yet you are causing some expansion.

So it might be worth a try to leave the puller in place, snugged as tightly as you dare, and then heat the entire nose of the hub with a good heat gun or even a propane torch. If you use a propane torch, just keep it moving and not concentrate for too long in one spot or you'll damage the paint. You can use a spit test like some folks do when setting the temp on an iron. When the spit on your finger sizzles, you are at about 200F. I'd stop there just to be safe. If the hup pops loose, that's great. If it's still tight, look for Plan C

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by perry kete » Fri Sep 24, 2021 2:23 pm

My concern would be starting a grease fire in the bearing and not being able to get the wheel off to put it out.
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by ewdysar » Tue Nov 30, 2021 2:16 am

otrcman wrote:
Wed Sep 22, 2021 8:01 pm
Just to bolster your optimism, Steve, here is my story:

When I took my rear wheels off a couple years ago, the regular puller worked like a charm on the first wheel. The second wheel was a different story. I tightened the center bolt on the puller until I was afraid that I'd strip the threads on the hub. Then I called my friend John Semprez and said, "HELP !!!!!"

John reassured me that the wheel would come off somehow. His advice was to first tap the hub all around the nose with a normal ball peen hammer. Check to see of the puller bolt could be tightened after tapping. If the bolt remained tight, walk away and do something else for the rest of the day. Then, the next morning, tap it several times and re-try the tightness of the puller.

On about the fourth day, I tried to retighten the puller bolt and I could turn it with my fingers. Some time during the night, the hub had popped loose from the axle. I never did find out what John's Plan B was.

And everybody lived happily ever after.
So I am trying to remove the rear hub off of my ‘27 Runabout with wire wheels for the first time. I modified a harbor freight pitman arm puller to fit the rear hub (no hubcap threads on the ‘26-‘27 wire hubs). I loaded up the puller to around 100 ft/lbs and have been tapping around the nose of the hub with a small hand sledge hammer a couple of times a day for almost a week. No movement yet. Is there anything else to try? or should I just let time take its course…

Eric

PS. the car is not currently driveable due to the disassembly of other major components.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Humblej » Tue Nov 30, 2021 7:29 am

Eric, lots of older postings about removing stuck wire wheel hubs, but I do not know how to attach a link. Whatever you use for a puller will still require pounding the axle shaft. If your puller has a big screw on the axle, wack the head of the screw repeatedly with a large hammer. A simple wheel knocker thread saving tool will work for wire wheels same as wood wheels. Pounding the axle is more important than pulling on the hub: Most/all puller tools require a pounding force, but zero knocker tools require a pulling force.

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by DanTreace » Tue Nov 30, 2021 8:38 am

d 100 ft/lbs and have been tapping around the nose of the hub with a small hand sledge hammer a couple of times a day for almost a week. No movement yet. Is there anything else to try? or should I just let time take its course…
Made this puller same way, after you turn the screw tight against the axle stub, then sharp fast whacks with a 3 1/2 lbs. 9” handle mallet works. Sometimes re-tighten the screw, but hit hard the end of the screw with a good fast swing, no taps, whack it! The hub will make a loud “Pop” sound and be loose then.


E37E2B17-AE58-4ECC-AB7B-D2A34431CD84.jpeg
Tire iron is jammed on floor to resist hub turning as you tighten that screw against the axle stub.
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by CudaMan » Tue Nov 30, 2021 10:15 am

If you have air tools, I have found that an air hammer with a blunt, flat tip seems to work better than a hand sledge at shocking the wheel loose with the puller applying steady pressure on the hub. :)
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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by ewdysar » Tue Nov 30, 2021 12:10 pm

Humblej wrote:
Tue Nov 30, 2021 7:29 am
Eric, lots of older postings about removing stuck wire wheel hubs, but I do not know how to attach a link. Whatever you use for a puller will still require pounding the axle shaft. If your puller has a big screw on the axle, wack the head of the screw repeatedly with a large hammer. A simple wheel knocker thread saving tool will work for wire wheels same as wood wheels. Pounding the axle is more important than pulling on the hub: Most/all puller tools require a pounding force, but zero knocker tools require a pulling force.
Yep, I’ve used knockers on my wood wheeled Ts with great success. And I know that the trick is to have the wheel that you’re loosening on the ground and the far wheel in the air.

Given that it seems like the process for using a knocker with a wire wheel goes like this. Loosen the lug nuts on the side that you want to remove. Jack up the near side. Remove the wire wheel. Remove the cotter and axle nut. Remove the hubcap from the wire wheel. Install the knocker on the axle threads. Reinstall the wire wheel and lower the jack. Jack up the far side and position a jack stand for safety. Beat on the knocker until the hub comes loose. Loosen the near side lug nuts. Jack up the near side and position second jack stand for safety. Remove the wire wheel and reinstall the hubcap on the wheel. Remove the knocker. Slide the hub off the axle. This side is done!

Does that sound right? Or did I leave something out?

In the meantime, I’ve got the puller as shown in Dan’s photo already in play. I’ll consider using a knocker on the other side if it also puts up a fight… ;)

Eric

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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by Humblej » Tue Nov 30, 2021 1:32 pm

Eric, I only jack up and use a knocker on the hub I want to remove. This is a slow process, you may be pounding for 20 minutes, and about the time you decide it is never comming off, it does. Others may do it differently.


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Re: How to remove a stuck rear wheel?

Post by TFowler » Tue Nov 30, 2021 10:31 pm

On my 27 the wire wheel hubs were stuck SOLID. I spent weeks doing the numerous methods (driving with loosened hub nut, gear puller, pounding with 5 pound hammer, soaking pb blaster etc) with no success. I made a hub puller from a ford pitman arm puller similar to Dan's. (I recommend putting the castle nut back on the shaft (upside down) just flush with the end of the shaft to protect the threads and to keep the hub from flying off when it does break loose). As last resort.... This method had the hubs off in 5 minutes: (Keep water or fire extinguisher nearby just in case)
1)Turn the hub puller screw tight against the axle stub with 18-inch breaker bar
2)Soak keyway and shaft with pb blaster
3) Use a regular propane torch and focus flame on hub at keyway......heat for 3-5 minutes.....remove flame and spray hub/keyway with pb blaster
4)Retighten the hub puller screw tight against the axle stub with 18-inch breaker bar...you should feel the hub release slightly.
5) WHACK the hub puller screw HARD with the 5 pound hammer several times and it should POP free
6)Repeat steps 3,4,5 if needed.
The hub gets very hot..... but not cherry red and I had no issues with grease fires even though the drums and lining were saturated with grease from leaking seals.

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