Early crank pulley removal help

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Topic author
Bill Elliott
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Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2019 4:20 pm
First Name: Wilber
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* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 Model T Touring
Location: Ray, Michigan
MTFCI Number: 22121
Board Member Since: 2007

Early crank pulley removal help

Post by Bill Elliott » Tue Sep 21, 2021 6:39 pm

I'm trying to remove the busted crank pulley on my 1910 T, but I can't seem to get it far enough to remove it from the engine because the narrow engine snout won't allow it. There's got to be another way to get this off other than removing the pan. Any tips would be appreciated!

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Ruxstel24
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Re: Early crank pulley removal help

Post by Ruxstel24 » Tue Sep 21, 2021 6:51 pm

Is it a stock pulley ?
I think the aluminum pulley, you do need to remove the pan.


Topic author
Bill Elliott
Posts: 61
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2019 4:20 pm
First Name: Wilber
Last Name: Elliott
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 Model T Touring
Location: Ray, Michigan
MTFCI Number: 22121
Board Member Since: 2007

Re: Early crank pulley removal help

Post by Bill Elliott » Tue Sep 21, 2021 6:55 pm

Yep, it's stock.


Allan
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Re: Early crank pulley removal help

Post by Allan » Tue Sep 21, 2021 7:48 pm

Bill, it may be a stock pulley, but from a later car. Can you give us the diameter? I believe the correct size pulley can be removed with a narrow nosed pan in place.

Allan from down under


Topic author
Bill Elliott
Posts: 61
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2019 4:20 pm
First Name: Wilber
Last Name: Elliott
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 Model T Touring
Location: Ray, Michigan
MTFCI Number: 22121
Board Member Since: 2007

Re: Early crank pulley removal help

Post by Bill Elliott » Tue Sep 21, 2021 7:49 pm

It will have to wait until tomorrow: heavy winds and rain drove me into the house.


Topic author
Bill Elliott
Posts: 61
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2019 4:20 pm
First Name: Wilber
Last Name: Elliott
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 Model T Touring
Location: Ray, Michigan
MTFCI Number: 22121
Board Member Since: 2007

Re: Early crank pulley removal help

Post by Bill Elliott » Wed Sep 22, 2021 10:23 am

Well I discovered the reason why I couldn't get the pulley off very easily: the left side of the engine pan nose was slightly bent in so the pulley kept stopping on the one rivet. So I had to grind the obstacle down enough to force the pulley off. It is 3" in diameter, but I'm not sure if it's an early or later style. I'd send a picture but I can't seem to get my smarty phone camera to take correct size pictures for this site!


Norman Kling
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Re: Early crank pulley removal help

Post by Norman Kling » Wed Sep 22, 2021 11:31 am

3 Inch is the earlier size. You might need to find an old one which fits. Sometimes if not too worn, a thin shim between the pulley and crank will help. The aluminum pulley is best, however, it has a lip around the edge which would interfere with the installation. I think there might be one available without the lip. Chaffin's Garage part number 3963-ADJ That one is 3 inches without the lip.
Norm


Topic author
Bill Elliott
Posts: 61
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2019 4:20 pm
First Name: Wilber
Last Name: Elliott
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 Model T Touring
Location: Ray, Michigan
MTFCI Number: 22121
Board Member Since: 2007

Re: Early crank pulley removal help

Post by Bill Elliott » Wed Sep 22, 2021 12:02 pm

Thanks Norm, I'll probably order the aluminum one without the edges since I had difficulty getting the old one off. Also, my old one has a large chunk missing on the inner hole so not usable.


Allan
Posts: 5201
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
First Name: Allan
Last Name: Bennett
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
Location: Gawler, Australia

Re: Early crank pulley removal help

Post by Allan » Thu Sep 23, 2021 3:55 am

Bill, an early one is worth saving. I have some black pipe which is a little bigger OD than the centre of the pulley. I bore out the old damaged centre to fit the pipe. Usually there is a radius left on the back of the pulley into which I run a full circle weld. The pipe is then machined back to length and bored to suit the crankshaft snout. If you drill the crank pin hole on one side and use another crankshaft hole as a guide to drill the other side, they are a good fix to a common problem.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

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