MTFCA Forum

I just purchased the aluminum split crankshaft pulley that has the Allen screw to tighten it on the shaft. I decided to reuse my old pin with the cotter hole in it instead of the roll pin that came with the pulley. However, once I hammered the pin in place with a punch, the cotter pin hole doesn't come past the pulley. If I punch it further to access the hole, the pin sticks out too far on the opposite side of the pulley. My question is, since the original taper pin is extremely snug, can I run it without the cotter pin? The roll pin that came with it doesn't have a cotter hole so why can't I use my original pin the same way?

You could shorten the original pin, however, the hole in the aluminum pulley is not smaller on one side as the original and so if the pin gets loose, it will protrude. Also the cotter pin might interfere with the crank. I use the rolled pin. I have those on two cars and so far have not had a problem.
Norm

Those roll pins are no good if you crank start a lot, they will break. shorten your pin, drill a hole for cotter pin so one at both ends/ Also I've found that on the few of those new pullies that they are not machined deep enough for the crank yoke to fit so had to turn then in the lathe to work correctly.

Kerry wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 27, 2021 6:08 pm

Those roll pins are no good if you crank start a lot, they will break. shorten your pin, drill a hole for cotter pin so one at both ends/ Also I've found that on the few of those new pullies that they are not machined deep enough for the crank yoke to fit so had to turn then in the lathe to work correctly.

I prefer not to use them for a hand crank car as stated above. I doubt there is enough room to effectively use a cotter pin.
Consider drilling the center of the crank for a set screw.

This problem is a direct result of using an 'improved' non original part. If the original pin was OK, presumably there was a problem with the original pulley. Could it not be repaired?

Allan from down under.

Those alum flanged pulleys are my choice over used Ford steel crank pulleys.

The set screw keeps the pulley firm on the crankshaft. But I'll not trust a hollow roll pin for the starting crank ratchet, so I use the Ford all steel pin.

Place the pin so a tiny part of the solid pin with the cotter hole just slightly engages the opposite hole in the pulley. Makes the pin fit so it can't bend on hard crank handle usage. The cotter is well clear of the starting crank ratchet, so there is clearance for that toothed ratchet. I always check to be sure of good cotter clearance when fitting the solid pin.

When you fit the pin, then clamp down the split flanged pulley with the set screw.....that tightens all, the pulley and the pin, nothing can move.

Dan McEachern makes the absolute best crank pulleys. I’ve had guys bring me others that needed a lot of aluminum taken off before use. A lot! Don’t know and don’t care where those came from but save the trouble, get Dan’s unless you want to wrestle worn out original stuff, or find NOS JMHO !

That’s why God now makes tapered pins, Steve! You can fight a worn out hole, or install a tapered pin.