MTFCA Forum

The improved Fords '26-'27 and the nearly improved Fords '23-'24-'25 were adorned with the bedazzling and staggeringly beautiful Radiator Apron part # 3977. Along with the added flair of the fenders and some other minor additions this made the old, ugly Model T Ford beautiful enough to out shine other competitors and save falling sales. Often we tend to take these parts for granted but today I am thinking of this one. My first observation this week was how it hid the timer from view or access at one angle. I could have readily seen a loose wire had it not been there.
Secondly, it should be removed or notched (use your best judgement) to remove the engine and still have the crank in place for guiding the front. Mine is held in place with a fender bracket bolt on each side going through it. The radiator mounting bolts also go through it. I had removed the latter and will not air my grievances on them at this point. All three fender brackets have to be removed or at least loosened on each side to free the apron. While the bolts were all new at assembly 20 years ago, they and their cotter pins have rusted securely in place. Getting my head and two hands as well as the necessary wrenches and pliers has become more of a contortion challenge than I remember.
Never the less, after 3 hours I have it safe and sound on the bench. Shown at lower left is the apron with a rubber pad I glued on it to stop an illusive rattle.
Taking a break.
Rich

You had it easy! Some cars you need to either loosen the body bolts or remove the firewall to get the engine out! After the radiator is out it is easy to remove the crank. I can service timers without having that apron out. If you can't see it, you can feel it. If you remove the bracket holding the timer and take the rod out, you can remove the cover from the timer and get to all the wires without removing anything.
Only beef I have about the older T's before 26 is trying to adjust the 4th rod while the engine is still in the car. I haven't tried it on one with counterbalanced crank, but it seems that would be just about impossible.
Norm

Modify the apron so that the parts trapped under the radiator mount can be detached from the valance part. Two extra screws and two fixed nuts... ?

Thanks Norman. That is what I ended up doing. I removed the timer and could then see the disconnected wire. My point is that could I have seen it by looking through the space that the apron blocks I then could have simply reached in underneath and reconnect with a new nut without getting the black grease allover my hands and arms. We were on tour and hauling food for folks. Getting cleaned up required letting some gas out of the carburetor drain. I also cleaned the inside of the timer with the gas soaked towel. That cleaning removed some oil and the worn timer started missing and required adding oil. Being able to see it would have made it much easier.
Thanks for the advice Pat and Norman.
I will say that the sun and blue sky later that day made for a wonderful time working regardless of any frustrations.
Rich

I trim the two side tabs off so you only need to lift it up, if you want to leave everything together then i would slot the top tabs so all you would need to do is loosen the radiator nuts and slide the apron out.

Rick

Henrietta, my 1925 Canadian car, has its original apron still in place. Not only is it held captive by the radiator studs, it has folded edges that are sandwiched between the frame and the fender iron. To get it off I imagine is a major operation. Radiator off first. Then the radiator studs would need to be removed to get access to the fender iron bolts. I imagine all three of them would have to be loosened, after you get the cotter pins out, and the front one removed so the apron could be slid forward. I can well understand why the side folds were deleted, and why many slot the radiator bolt holes in the top fold. At least on the 26-7 aprons the screw below the crank handle will still hold the thing in place.

Allan from down under.