MTFCA Forum

Bought this transmission hoping that some of gears might be good for my transmission rebuild this winter, I've been soaking this in Kroil penetrating oil, scrapping out the gunk, poking, prying and beating on this thing for the last month and can not get this thing to budge, the old burnt oil in there looks and feels like carbon when I scrap off what I can.
Looking for any ideas how to get the driven plate off, at least that's what I think its called.

Try hanging the tramission from the tail shaft driven plate a few inches off the floor to let the transmission weight help separate the parts. Try to hang it as evenly as you can so the pull is along the transmission center line.

Manually scrape away the crud inside the drum down to the plate. Grab the drum with a strap wrench & rotate the drive plate. Screwdriver between finger & shaft or square output drive.

Find you a large enough tub or container of some sort and soak the entire transmission in mineral spirts or to lessen the cost a gallon on of mineral spirits and the rest diesel. You can get the diesel at the pump.
That’s what I did and as time went by and if the transmission was fully locked up I would take it out of the tub and slowly start to try to rotate the transmission and tapping with a brass hammer on the clutch drive place to get it open. Soak and more soak inning will usually free things up. Good luck with yours! I’ve used that process with rusted tight and stuck transmissions and it usually works.

The Lang’s Catalog has a clutch plate puller.
Is this what you need?
Item Number: 5Z-314

I have used a little heat to burn the caked oil crud off and then they come out easily.

There is no whitemetal in the transmission assembly, so an engine shop can put it into their hot tank a chemically 'cook' it. That will get rid of all the grease as well.

I can only think that that drive plate is hung up on the bushing that rides on the end of the transmission shaft. A heavy drift through the centre of the drive plate shaft will pound the plug down so that pressure can be applied to the trans shaft. Or, I may have missed something.

Allan from down under.

If this is a complete trans with magnets on the flywheel, don't put it in a caustic soda hot tank. The aluminum support spools will not only be gone, but you will wreck the tank solution. You need to scrape all that crud an old goo from the inside lip of the brake drum. You can use the clutch fingers to get the driven plate to start turning.

Well caught Dan. I'd forgotten about the aluminium magnet spools found on most flywheels. Our machine shop uses a different, cold tank on alloy cylinder heads, and it takes longer than a hot tank.

You are absolutely right about it ruining a chemical charge in the hot tank if any aluminium or whitemetal is left in the parts to be cleaned. I once left just two divots of bearing metal in the holes that are filled when the main bearings are poured. Those two little keepers were responsible for the thinnest of coatings on the parts in that wash. Thankfully, the tank mix was OK.

Allan from down under.

Bruce

though it cannot be seen, there is a bronze bushing in the front of the output shaft which rides on the transmission output shaft. I believe that this is what is keeping your shaft from coming of. While I am not looking at one now, working from memory, there should be two holes in the side of the tail shaft in which you should be able to flood some penetrating oil which would work into that bearing and release the crud.

Hanging the assembly off of the floor by an inch or so, with plywood under it and exercising patience should eventually see the thing come apart. If you are impatient, the suggestion of heat should finish the job.

I'm with Ken - use the clutch spring cup retainer holes in the tail shaft to insert the pin with wire hanging the whole assembly AFTER torching off the carbon around the edge - "pop goes the weasel" !

I hung this from the rafters and beat the crap out of it for 20 minutes and it finally cam off, I was dismayed to fine some teeth missing on the triple gear

Look for cracks in the brake drum.

I learned a good while ago to not ‘force’ anything on these old transmissions. Hope you didn’t break anything. When pulling straight up and letting the weight pull down on the assembly the triple gears get cocked ever so slightly enough to grasp the triple gear pins. I cracked a good drum on mine using to much force. Learned not to do it that way again.

bmklawt wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 03, 2021 2:01 pm

I hung this from the rafters and beat the crap out of it for 20 minutes and it finally cam off, I was dismayed to fine some teeth missing on the triple gear

No matter how good this stuff may look, I always come back to the question of, "why was this removed from a car?" Hopefully there's some "good stuff" still in there for you.

That’s why I submerse those old transmissions in some type of mixture of solvent when they get stuck up and soak them for a few days. They are like working on an old windup clock. You take your time and lube, lube and lube.