MTFCA Forum

I’m curious....how many miles do you drive between oil changes? I usually change before I hit 1000 but with today’s modern oils am I being conservative?

That would depend on how you drive and how dirty your engine already is, or isn't. A dirty, sludgey engine can foul clean oil in short order. Your local climate is another thing to consider. Short trips in cold weather require more frequent oil changes. Operating in dusty conditions, likewise. Keeping clean oil in a T will reduce the chance of transmission band lint causing issues and may reduce the chance of a magneto short. A tight engine in good tune that is driven on the road can easily go 2,000 miles between oil changes. Under good conditions with minimal short trips or extended idling, 3,000 miles should be no problem with modern oils. Don't start your car unless you are going to drive it, preferabley at least ten miles. This is especially important in cold weather. Always drain oil when hot after several miles of driving.

Due to traffic speeds here, I don't drive my T a lot. It has no odometer, so I change the oil every three years or so.

A air cleaner on the carb will have some impact

I follow the mfg. recommended, every 700 mile’s.

Usually do it after each tour, those week long tours are 500 or so miles.

Your rings, bearings, trans bushings, gears, and linings are depending on clean, full bodied oil.

The modern car has a full flow filter to take out sludge and other particles. The T has none and the same oil is in the transmission as the engine. A filter screen on top of the hogs head with a magnet to catch small iron particles helps, however since all impurities remain in the oil it is a very good idea to change often. Since most T's do not have an odometer, we just figure the approximate distance between changes. I like to do it about once a year, unless I go on a week long tour, then after the long tour. Very important to also check the oil level because of oil burning and leaks, it sometimes drops low. I always open the lower petcock before I drive it and if some comes out I drive. However if going on a long tour, I will check the upper petcock and add oil till it runs out.
Norm

My cars get a run every week and I change all my T's oil every spring but I'm thinking of changing to prior to winter. I read an oil research which states that oil absorbs moister over time and running. The theory is put new oil in before parking up for winter and know there is no moister in the mix while it is sitting.
I used to cost for $9, this year due to prices I notice it is now $15. I mean for that cost I should do it twice a year no matter how many miles I run.
I bet oil is cheaper in the US.
I also take advantage while I'm under there to fill the grease caps, lube handbrake levers, look for leaks, loose fittings, missing split pins etc.

What kind of oils are people using?

I use Valvoline VR1 because it has a higher amount of zinc which I have read is better for flat tappet cams. True? Don’t really know….

Every 6 Months for me!
Alan in Western Australia

MichaelPawelek wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 14, 2021 6:28 am

I use Valvoline VR1 because it has a higher amount of zinc which I have read is better for flat tappet cams. True? Don’t really know….

Racing oil! Get it! Any thoughts on detergent vs non detergent oils?

All the engines on my T’s and A are hospital clean on the inside so I use detergent oil. In the past some have stated engines covered in sludge inside should use non detergent as the newer detergent oils might loosen the sludge and cause problems. True? Don’t know.

A good, basic thought is to change it when it starts getting pretty dark brown to almost black anyway. Usually that's 500-600 miles.
Clara, my '13 , can actually approach 700 before being totally dark, I try to change it when it's still just a little "opaque" on my fingers or on a paper towel. The other two cars seem to need it right about at 500 miles, give or take a few.

If you have an engine that is loaded with old sludge, driving it with ANY oil in it is apt to loosen enough sludge to cause problems. The best course in such a case is to clean out the sludge. Short of that, drain the oil, hot, and take off the access cover and clean it, then refill with conventional detergent oil in a 10W30. Drive the car at modest speeds for 10 miles or more every time you start it. Use a transmission screen and check it often. You can also drain the oil, hot, into a CLEAN container every hundred miles or so and check for trash and sediment. You probably won't see much after the first or second draining. If the oil is not thickened with soot and gum, strain it through a screen and put it back in the engine and repeat the procedure after more driving. Any good oil is fine for use in a Model T. 10W30 detergent oil is a good choice. If you have a clean, tight engine, synthetic oil in a 10W30 is fine. Short trips in cold weather are hard on any engine. Avoid it. Driving in dusty conditions is hard on a T engine. Avoid it. If you live in a cool, damp climate, condensation can occur inside your engine. The best remedy for this is storage in an insulated garage. It's important to drive for ten miles or more when you start your engine, especially in cold weather or cool, damp weather. Doing so will drive any moisture out of the engine. If you're not going to drive the car, don't start the engine. All engines create moisture when they are running, and a cold engine will condense a portion of that moisture in the crankcase, which is a primary cause of sludge. There is no set time period or mileage that can be recommended for your car or your driving situation.

MichaelPawelek wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 14, 2021 8:54 am

All the engines on my T’s and A are hospital clean on the inside so I use detergent oil. In the past some have stated engines covered in sludge inside should use non detergent as the newer detergent oils might loosen the sludge and cause problems. True? Don’t know.

What I have learned is detergent oils suspended the debris in the oil longer so when you change it it all comes out. Non detergent the debris separate after the oil settles thus building up solids and gunk in corners over time. I believe both oils are good but non detergent probably should be changed more often. Also I think the term “detergent” is misleading as I don’t think it actually will clean out your engine sludge. But that is just from my experiences with old tractors. 🥸

If your oil gets very dark after only 500 miles, you may be running too rich or your engine may already have deposits in it that are washing out. It's normal for oil to darken, but that sounds excessive to me. My engine is clean inside, and synthetic detergent oil stays clear looking on the dipstick for over 1,000 miles. When drained at 2000+ miles, the oil is a medium dark amber and not thickened. It does not have a strong odor and does not smell like gasoline. It's probably perfectly good for more use. I save it for general purposes and mix some of it with STP-type additives for use on kingpins and spring shackles.

Detergent oil does not have a strong washing effect on internal engine deposits. It's main virtue is that it prevents deposition in the first place, and it keeps normal particles and contaminates that accumulate in crankcase oil in suspension. Detergent oil will only very slowly erode old deposits. Driving an old engine that is full of sludge hard with any kind of oil can tend to break loose deposits and can cause problems.

I drive my 1924 around 1000 miles a year. I change my oil twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.

First oil change after a rebuild or major work I change the oil @ or before 100 miles, after that every 500 or so. If I have 400 miles on the oil & I'm going on a long tour I'll change it before the tour. I try to keep up on the parts store adds sometimes you can find oil for $2.50 a qt. @ NAPA on a weekend sale. Last time I bought all that the stores on my side of town had. The way things are going I would think it good to have a good amount on hand. Don't remember ever seeing a best if used by date on motor oil.
Craig.

Tim,

I change my oil about once a year. That equates to roughly 1000 - 1500 miles.

MichaelPawelek wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 14, 2021 6:28 am

I use Valvoline VR1 because it has a higher amount of zinc which I have read is better for flat tappet cams. True? Don’t really know….

I used that in my last oil change. The guy at the auto parts store asked what kind of car I was doing the oil change in. I told him, "a Model T Ford." He said he had some high zinc oil that would be just right, (VR1). "Sounds great! I'll take 6 quarts." At the checkout he said my bill comes to $52. What??? I didn't ask, I just paid. Now, this will sound silly, but the engine seems to run quieter with the VR1 in it. (It's an old, kinda loose motor) But then, it also seems to run better after I wash it...

A stock T engine does not need a high zinc oil to protect the cam/lifters. The low speeds, low spring pressure, light valve train, low lift, and mild cam profile make it un-necessary. It won't hurt anything, but it's not needed, any more than high octane gasoline. A quality non-detergent oil with no additives at all is sufficient, if you change it every 700 miles or so. I prefer to use good quality oil because of its many advantages, including longer oil life and much better viscosity and extreme pressure characteristics over a wide temperature range.