MTFCA Forum

I just today noticed a piece of small-diameter rubber hose on the choke control wire, the purpose of which, I assume, is to prevent the wire from falling through the slot in the firewall. This seems kind of shade-tree to me, so I was wondering if I’m missing a part here? I’ve been told I have a Holley NH carburetor, if that makes any difference.

At a minimum I need to shorten the hose, as it’s holding the choke about half closed (which may be part of the reason the combustion chambers are so sooty).

I'd guess someone put that on the wire to prevent it from rattling or to serve as a stop to hold the choke part way shut. A smaller diameter rubber hose piece might serve both functions, preventing rattles and serving to hold the choke shut or partially shut if the need arose, such as during hand-cranking. Running the vehicle with the choke half shut would indeed cause soot deposits and poor running.

Need another photo of the firewall, do you have a bellcrank on the choke?
The following photos show a more typical install - my choke rod has a knob threaded on the end of it. Yours looks like "Yankee Ingenuity."

Tim, it does have a bellcrank on the firewall. As far as the wire loop on the choke control, I’ve seen it on other T’s, so I thought that it was correct. It just seems to fit with the keep-it-simple Model T philosophy.

Tim's is the more usual control on a steel firewall car. The knob and rod usually extend through a hole in the dash panel. On our Canadian sourced cars the alloy knob is cast in-situ on the rod, rather than being threaded on.

Allan from down under.

It looks to me that they have installed the "Choke Wire" that belongs at the radiator apron to the dash side of the carb. The dash should have what is a "Priming Rod" (aka choke rod) through the firewall. It is a choke wire but not in the correct position.

Thank you Perry! For $8.95 the choke rod with the knob seems like the way you go. Should I also get the sleeve, or just let the rod ride in the slot in the firewall?

That sleeve is used only on the 26-27 where the same rod is combination of choke and adjustment rod. For yours you should purchase the shorter rod with the angle on the end. You also need a bell crank to change the angle of the pull. when assembled it should look like the picture posted by oltav8er.
Norm

Your original choke spring is broken/missing, hence the added coil spring.
With the correct spring involved, the choke butterfly will sit in the right place.

Norman Kling wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 10, 2021 11:08 am

That sleeve is used only on the 26-27 where the same rod is combination of choke and adjustment rod. For yours you should purchase the shorter rod with the angle on the end. You also need a bell crank to change the angle of the pull. when assembled it should look like the picture posted by oltav8er.
Norm

Check, no sleeve. On a second look I noticed it only applies to 26-27. I do already have a bellcrank, hopefully the correct one…

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 10, 2021 12:05 pm

Your original choke spring is broken/missing, hence the added coil spring.
With the correct spring involved, the choke butterfly will sit in the right place.

Thank you John, being new to T’s I had no idea that spring wasn’t original. It is adequate for the job, it was just that piece of rubber tubing keeping the wire from going far enough forward to let the choke fully open. I’ll get the correct rod and spring. I’m anxious to get the cylinder head back on to see how it runs with the choke wide open.

Does this look like the correct choke spring for an NH?

Yes. When you install, check that @ rest the choke plate is horizontal.