MTFCA Forum

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Hello fellow Model T-ers,

I want to strip these wheels of “whatever” the previous owner covered them with but I do not want to apply a chemical etc that will absorb into the wood and therefore cause problems with paint adhesion later. I also do not want to physically damage the wood by sandblasting.

Short of just folding up sand paper and going at it by hand, would any of you know of a way to remove the clear coat in a way that will not cause problems down the road? I would be grateful for any guidance that you may offer.
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If the clear coat is compatible with what you are going to use next I would just sand it smooth and paint over it. It might make a nice filler coat. Try one spoke and see how it goes. I like enamel on wheels and it goes over most paints nicely.
Best of Luck
Rich

I used sand paper. Get some one inch rolled up sandpaper. Easy to strip spokes, get 30 gallon plastic trash can put rin on top and start sanding. Won’t take long. If you are going to restrain and varnish you must get it all off. If your going to paint, use some high build primer then sand and then add more primer until perfectly smooth.

Wood spokes should be scraped first like restoring a split bamboo fly rod. This keeps the grain in place since all quality spokes were originally split from a block to maximize grain to end to end. Any quality scraper with various curves or make your own should do. Then sand with 180 grit and do as you want.

Hank

Scrape with peaces of broken glass. Cheep tool. I did a set of wheels that way years ago. Worked for me.

I've used the broken glass trick too, but found 1.5" strips cut from household window type glass just as good but even more manageable. With a strip, you have 4 edges to use. As they get blunt, just turn to a new edge. Start on a new piece of glass when necessary. Always scrape with the grain. Same applies for sanding. Any glass shop will gladly cut you some strips from an off-cut. Mine supplied the off-cut and cut the strips free. The straight edge of the cut strips drawn from the V between the spokes is the best way to clean the V, and you can be pulling with the grain as you come onto the spoke shaft.

Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.

I have used a broken glass jar, it gives a curved edge to scrape with.

Google card scraper on woodworking sites. Once properly prepared, card scrapers will shave off the finish.

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Per your advice, I picked up these shards of quarter inch thick mirror “for free” at my local glass shop. Along with some strips of 100 grit sandpaper, this failing clearcoat is coming off easily and completely with no damage to the wood or nasty residue..

Now I just have to fight with Larry “Original” Smith as to whether these 1911 wheels will be painted the body color or left natural like Kieth Townsend’s stunning 1911 Touring.

Thank you all for your advice. I am moving along nicely with this project.
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Scrape and sand off varnish as described by others, then using a 1” paint brush, clean bare wood with a wash of lacquer thinner to flow off wood dust and any remnants of remaining varnish. A stiff, but flexible plastic bristled parts cleaning brush (see photo) will also help in cleaning the wood grain and nooks and crannies between the spokes. The parts cleaning brush can be purchased at Lowe’s, Home Depot, Auto Zone or any auto parts store. With the thinner still wet, it will allow you to see how the spokes will look when clear coated. If the wood is still splotchy, do it again until the spokes are a uniform color with no splotchiness. When they are to your satisfaction, clean off any remaining residue with a cotton rag soaked with lacquer thinner. Once dry, lacquer thinner leaves absolutely no residue in or on the wood. Jim Patrick

I have to say I would have concerns with that much lacquer thinner. That stuff is very flammable. Just a good shop vac with a brush attachment & maybe followed by some compressed air works fine.