MTFCA Forum

So I got the T running this summer. I put between 5 and 10 miles on it - easy driving up and down my street. While emptying the cooling system to put the car to bed for the winter, I see the coolant water (it was just water) is a reddish brown, the color of a fine holiday cider. It is so dirty I thought there might be oil in it. Then I thought maybe this is normal since it's a cast iron block and the motor has been sitting around a lot. By the way, I had a Motormeter on it for driving and there was no overheating, even the first day driving.

Do you think I have a problem with a cracked block or does this seem normal for start up operations after an overhaul? I think the Miller crew paint the inside of the block too.

What is the capacity of the cooling system? I got about 7 quarts back even with the front wheels 2" lower than the back wheels during draining so seems like there's still a couple quarts left in the engine. Does that sound right to you?

The system is supposed to hold three gallons (12 quarts). Rusty water seems normal for sitting all summer. 5-10 miles is nothing !. Drive that T !! You'll be glad you did. (and you'll find out what all needs attention / correction )

If it has been sitting since summer with water in it, and now the water is brown, I'd say that some of your block and head are now in that pail.

after 95 years of "just" water in them, many blocks are tissue-thin and will crumble and leak...those which have been blessed with coolant or soluble oil over the years are in much better shape and those are the ones which survive to be rebuilt.

Use coolant or soluble oil, and save the block and head from further decay/destruction.

I am working on one which had been parked for 20 years and the coolant was still green anti freeze. I drained and replaced it.
Your coolant looks like rust. You really need a rust inhibitor in it so that won't happen again and also if you have hard water in your area you need purified or distilled water so it doesn't leave lime and mineral deposits in the cooling system.
Your address indicated Kentucky, so you most likely have some days below freezing, so I would recommend the green anti freeze solution in solution recommended for your lowest predicted temperatures. That anti-freeze also has rust inhibitor in it.
Norm

“Coolant water....just water” is a radiatorman’s dream. Keeps him in business. Use 50/50 antifreeze and $1 @ gallon distilled water

I would suggest you flush your system BEFORE putting antifreeze solution in.

Good Info here: https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG96.html

Once you're sure it's all clean, then antifreeze it for the winter.

My question would be is it best to drain the cooling system every few years even if you have a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. I have 3 T’s and drive one more than the other two.

It would seem to me to drain the cooling system after you run the car and get it up to running temperature for a good while and then drain the radiator AFTER rather than draining it if it hasn’t run for a few months. At least the rust or whatever would have a tendency to come out rather than draining a cold mixture.

I don't understand why anyone living as far south as Kentucky would ever put a T away for winter.

Fill it up with clear water, drive a mile or two, and drain again. Then fill with antifreeze mix and you should be good.

Thanks for the replies -

I stuck my hand in the sample I drew yesterday and couldn't feel any oil on my skin so that's a load off. I'm surprised this happen just over the summer. I didn't expect that to happen in 3 or 4 months.

Yeah, I intend to drive it more next summer. There are still a few things I need to sort out and I wouldn't want to drive it any further from home than I would care to push it back. We pulled it to get it started after dragging for 1/2 mile with the plugs out. It started in about a 10 or 15 foot pull. It ran cool even on the first days drive. But it's still stiff to crank. Sometimes, I can get it started on the battery. I crank it right up until I feel a heart attack coming on and it either starts or I quit. I probably should have put a starter on it when I had the chance.

I'll post some pictures when I get the fenders and running boards on to suit me.

jesselashcraft wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 21, 2021 6:09 pm

Thanks for the replies -

I stuck my hand in the sample I drew yesterday and couldn't feel any oil on my skin so that's a load off. I'm surprised this happen just over the summer. I didn't expect that to happen in 3 or 4 months.

Yeah, I intend to drive it more next summer. There are still a few things I need to sort out and I wouldn't want to drive it any further from home than I would care to push it back. We pulled it to get it started after dragging for 1/2 mile with the plugs out. It started in about a 10 or 15 foot pull. It ran cool even on the first days drive. But it's still stiff to crank. Sometimes, I can get it started on the battery. I crank it right up until I feel a heart attack coming on and it either starts or I quit. I probably should have put a starter on it when I had the chance.

I'll post some pictures when I get the fenders and running boards on to suit me.

It didn't happen in 3 or 4 months this summer. That's existing rust that you flushed out. Go with the anti freeze suggestions. Not sure why so many responses have homemade recipes that were fine 70 years ago? If their recipe is better than the current coolant manufacturers I wouldn't be recommending it to model T guys, I'd be selling it to the biggest anti freeze company that would listen. Good luck with that! One must remember your original block T was cooled by whatever water was handy, be it from a well, creek, river or slough. We run straight water in our prairie tractors and drain when warm. We take them out once a year. Water is never red when draining. Sounds like a contradiction to my statement on anti freeze? My T doesn't leak. The prairie tractors pee on themselves constantly. We'd be a super fund hazmat site after the last 50 years! Have fun with your T!

I agree with Scott Conger. My '27 has a 50-50 mixture of antifreeze and water. Cooling is not an issue, in fact it wouldn't bother me if it ran 10 degrees warmer. If a antifreeze/water mixture (as opposed to straight water) will make the difference between running at a proper temperature and overheating, your cooling system (or perhaps fuel/air mixture or spark system) needs service.