MTFCA Forum

I will post a series of photos of the process of working on my '27 roadster. I bought this car as a field find in Camrose Alberta in 1978. The cowl skin was riveted to the firewall, bolted at the dash arc and door hinges, and wrapped in a grip under the sides. I simply drilled the rivets at the cowl lace, removed the dash and doors, and unwrapped the sides. This was a very simple removal. It came off like a glove. You then have access to everything under the cowl skin.
I discovered that this car was painted in pieces and small sub assemblies, crated and shipped to an assembly plant in Winnipeg Manitoba. This led to drilling all of the rivets of the sub assemblies and using a small rotary burr to separate the spot welds of the hip panels and trunk panels.
I will start with the frame and then go to the body.

Very interesting! I look forward to the in-process pics you will post.
I assume that in these pics, you are bringing the frame back to square and flat status? Was any particular area worse than another as far as how it had bent through use?

Many emailed me regards to how I straightened the frame on my T with the body in place a year back. As you can see, it is no different with the body on than with out the body. I merely used a 4” x 6” x 12’ wood beam instead of the metal beam shown here. Look at how and where the beam is strapped on to the frame and the Jack is slid to where the worst part of the frame happens to be. I placed a 2” x 4” between the Jack and the frame to keep the Jack from slipping off the metal and having a missile coming at me. Great example of how to straighten the frame. Just my .02 cents. Frank