Body Paint

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BLB27
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Body Paint

Post by BLB27 » Sun Oct 24, 2021 4:21 pm

The next step in the restoration of my 1927 coupe is to determine what type of paint to use on body. The fenders, splash panels, and running boards will be black. The rest of the body will be green (channel green or highland green). Wire wheels will be straw.

I need comments/recommendations on type of paint and suppliers. Where do I get information to provide to suppliers regarding formulas for the green colors?


R.V.Anderson
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Re: Body Paint

Post by R.V.Anderson » Sun Oct 24, 2021 5:09 pm

This doesn't address the topic, but a few weeks ago my uncle, a local collector/restorer (owns more than 50), was spitting and sparking like a T coil with loose points over the bill he got for a gallon of red enamel: $5,000! Yep, that's five thousand dollars!! For ONE gallon!! Wish I could have found out what it was, but I couldn't talk to Uncle Lou; too busy running for my life.


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Re: Body Paint

Post by John Codman » Sun Oct 24, 2021 5:37 pm

I know that he pigments that make red paint are expensive, but $5,000 is ridiculous. When we bought our 2018 Chrysler mini van, red was a $300 extra charge.


Joe Bell
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Re: Body Paint

Post by Joe Bell » Sun Oct 24, 2021 5:38 pm

I use to paint cars for a living back in the day, the base coat clear coats look really nice but I think they look to good for a T? I sprayed mine in single stage urathane 20 years ago, still looks good but my 65 mustang I wish I would of done it in base coat clear coat for the more modern look and shine. It is all in what a person wants the finish to look like after it is done. Factory or better? Just my two cents on it.


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Re: Body Paint

Post by MichaelPawelek » Sun Oct 24, 2021 5:46 pm

I was at my local automotive paint shop last Monday for some touch up paint on my Coupe which is Windsor Maroon. 4 ounces cost me $49.00. This was for acrylic enamel. Jokingly asked the young man at the counter what a gallon would cost and he said $900. He then told me that was a great price because it included the hardener! 😊
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Humblej
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Re: Body Paint

Post by Humblej » Sun Oct 24, 2021 6:18 pm

Bruce, I see you asking about the color of my 26 coupe in the what have you done in October topic and will respond here. I painted my coupe body in the 1970's based on the Les Henry restoration book identifying the color channel green as the same paint code as model A kewanee green, Ditzler #546. I believe that book pretty well established that color as channel green, but I doubt it. Ford descriptions of the color refer to it as "deep channel green', and kewanee green is anything but "deep". As there are no known surviving samples of Ford proxylin paint, your guess is as good as Les Henrys, choose any green you like. I painted the body in lacquer, and the black fenders, etc., in enamel. Forget about lacquer now, the EPA has put lacquer paint on the 10 most wanted list of chemicals that will end life on earth, some states will not sell it and the other states have priced it out of existence. When I get around to re-restoring my coupe, I plan to paint it a darker green in a semi gloss finish to better copy the dull appearance of the 26-27 proxylin finishes in Ford publicity and factory photos.

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Henry K. Lee
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Re: Body Paint

Post by Henry K. Lee » Sun Oct 24, 2021 6:28 pm

Being a paint and body guy, I highly recommend using from start to finish with recommended products by the manufacturer of the top coat. New paint formulas are not compatible with old school primers. In about 3-5 years a chemical reaction occurs and the ugly snake shows it head.

Get ready to blow a chunk of cash because it is only going up in price.

Good Luck,

Hank


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BLB27
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Re: Body Paint

Post by BLB27 » Sun Oct 24, 2021 7:18 pm

Hank, Thanks. Could you explain what you mean by "New formulas are not compatible with the old school primers?

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Henry K. Lee
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Re: Body Paint

Post by Henry K. Lee » Sun Oct 24, 2021 8:00 pm

The formulas used now on modern top coats are not compatible with lacquer primers, or really any other style straight solvent based primer. They need to be sprayed over a catalyzed primer (commonly known as 2K, or epoxy) after an etching primer is applied. The synthetic based paint solvents react with minute chemical blisters with lacquer and other straight reduction primers in a few years as all the lower solvents have seasoned away.

I have had very good luck with Nason products, Evercoat fillers, 3M masking products.

Hope this Helps,

Hank


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Re: Body Paint

Post by frontyboy » Sun Oct 24, 2021 10:11 pm

I just purchased a gallon of maroon and a gallon of bright red plus the hardener and a quart of thinner at Wesco automotive paint. They have stores up and down the west coast.

I paid $260 out the door. No this was not the 1st line brand but a single stage urethane paint. I painted the chassis of my raceabout the deep maroon. It layed down well and smooth and set up quickly with a very nice gloss. Shop around ask questions. Their 1st offer was a top of the line and it was quoted at just under $500 per gallon. I asked for a lesser grade and they quickly offered 3 additional less expensive grades.

As my 1914 raceabout is a limited use car and would never be stored outside I'm good with lower grade material. I used the same grade on my 1928 sprint car restoration and it looks as good today as the day I sprayed it.

just sayin'

brasscarguy

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TWrenn
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Re: Body Paint

Post by TWrenn » Mon Oct 25, 2021 11:37 am

BLB27 wrote:
Sun Oct 24, 2021 4:21 pm
The next step in the restoration of my 1927 coupe is to determine what type of paint to use on body. The fenders, splash panels, and running boards will be black. The rest of the body will be green (channel green or highland green). Wire wheels will be straw.

I need comments/recommendations on type of paint and suppliers. Where do I get information to provide to suppliers regarding formulas for the green colors?
PPG Concept.
At least I think its PPG label. Single stage urethane, easy to use, excellent shine. Can't go wrong.

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TRDxB2
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Re: Body Paint

Post by TRDxB2 » Mon Oct 25, 2021 12:00 pm

BLB27 wrote:
Sun Oct 24, 2021 4:21 pm
The next step in the restoration of my 1927 coupe is to determine what type of paint to use on body. The fenders, splash panels, and running boards will be black. The rest of the body will be green (channel green or highland green). Wire wheels will be straw.

I need comments/recommendations on type of paint and suppliers. Where do I get information to provide to suppliers regarding formulas for the green colors?
You'll need to decide how authentic a paint finish you want for "type" of paint
https://mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm
Paint Number Charts follow
Paints 1.jpg
Paints 1.jpg (83.37 KiB) Viewed 2670 times
Paint wheel.jpg
Not all computer screens display the same, but the comparisons of some of these artist renderings to the color chart can give you an idea of the color. You can then get some actual color chips
http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedi ... 730&scomm=
Attachments
Hunter Gr Sample.jpg
clr2.png
color chart 1927.jpg
Last edited by TRDxB2 on Mon Oct 25, 2021 12:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Body Paint

Post by jab35 » Mon Oct 25, 2021 12:09 pm

I have no business or any other connection to this company, but they are regulars at Hershey. I inquired about channel green for a '26 coupe and the guy mixed up a sample on the spot. Haven't tried it yet as I still have all body work remaining, but the fact he had that paint in his computer pallet was encouraging to me. jb http://thepaintguyz.com/

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Re: Body Paint

Post by Steve Jelf » Mon Oct 25, 2021 12:20 pm

Names are inadequate to determine a color. One company's Lime Green is another company's Envy Green. Go by the numbers in the Encyclopedia. You can also have a color mixed to match a sample if you have one. Most paint stores now have the technology to read a sample and match it.
The inevitable often happens.
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Re: Body Paint

Post by Dan McEachern » Mon Oct 25, 2021 1:10 pm

Seriously consider the single stage urethanes. They apply similar to acrylic enamel- very forgiving, great gloss and flows out well. Recently started using Sherwin Williams Dimension line primer and finish coat, and I'm very happy with it. Yes, regardless of what you decide, the reds will always be more expensive.


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Re: Body Paint

Post by John kuehn » Mon Oct 25, 2021 1:33 pm

The single stage urethane paint looks really nice and to me more authentic than the base clear paint system.
I took the advice several years ago from a local T owner who repainted his 14 with the base clear. He was disappointed because it looked to much like molded plastic was his evaluation.

Lots of T’s have the single stage paint and look really nice. You can’t wrong with that.
Preparation is the key for a nice paint job. It’s 90% of a successful job.
And yes colors are always going to be higher than black. That’s just the way it is.


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Re: Body Paint

Post by modeltspaz » Mon Oct 25, 2021 1:46 pm

I see that they have used my '26 Touring as an example for Highland Green in the photo above.
That photo was taken for a magazine article highlighting the last years of the Model T. We used a house in the city of Downey as the backdrop. The photographer wasn't familiar with the area, so I drove to "Downtown" Downey, near the intersections of Firestone and Paramount Boulevards. This area was developed in the '20s and '30s. The house fit right in to the era complete with ribbon driveway. Only thing is, most likely the people that could afford a house like that when the house was a few years old probably would have owned a car a little more expensive than a T.
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Re: Body Paint

Post by R.V.Anderson » Mon Oct 25, 2021 1:56 pm

It's almost quaint now, but I still like Centari. Still available after lo these many years, though no longer made by DuPont. It's still sort of affordable, and I know precisely how it will perform and behave after having used it for so long.


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Re: Body Paint

Post by jiminbartow » Mon Oct 25, 2021 8:46 pm

Here is another version of Mike’s picture. It looks better with the rubber side down. Beautiful T! Jim Patrick
B951DC71-BBFA-4BCE-A136-72F2688FB4E2.jpeg
Last edited by jiminbartow on Mon Oct 25, 2021 11:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Re: Body Paint

Post by MichaelPawelek » Mon Oct 25, 2021 9:03 pm

Thanks Jim. I have never figured out why some of my photos show up here sideways!

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Re: Body Paint

Post by Steve Jelf » Mon Oct 25, 2021 11:36 pm

I have never figured out why some of my photos show up here sideways!

Same here. But for me it only happens occasionally with pictures in a vertical format. When it shows up sideways in Preview I delete it. Then I rotate the original 90º left or right, rotate it back upright, and repost. I don't know why, but that cures the sideways malady.
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Re: Body Paint

Post by Allan » Tue Oct 26, 2021 4:53 am

A major factor in your decision is the facilities you have to spray with. I do all mine at home, in the open, under a lean to outside my workshop. I have found acrylic lacquer the most forgiving of the coditions and my skill set, and it is the easiest to make corrections if I foul up. I also think the resultant finish is more acceptable on an old car.

Allan from down under.


20touring
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Re: Body Paint

Post by 20touring » Tue Oct 26, 2021 3:38 pm

Having painted several antique tractors at home I plan to use black tractor enamel from my local TSC store (Tractor Supply Company) I have found this paint more authentic to the original finish of a Model T. It’s much safer since thinning is done using paint thinner.
It’s very durable being machinery grade paint and touch ups are a snap! It gives a nice gloss without the depth of urethane
Current price $37 a gallon.
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Re: Body Paint

Post by jiminbartow » Wed Oct 27, 2021 12:39 pm

One problem with most paints, other than lacquer is that, while sanding smooth between coats, prior to applying the following coat or prior to compounding after the last coat, if you sand through the present coat to the prior coat, you will be able to see the lines of delineation between the various coats, sort of like the lines on a military elevation map. Since following coats of lacquer soften, melt and blend into the preceding coats, there is no delineation lines between coats, so you don’t have to worry about sanding into the preceding coats. Lacquer also compounds so that you get a deep, shiny mirror shine that reflects a mile deep. Lacquer is also very hard and durable and lasts a very long time. Jim Patrick

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