I have finally decided how I am going remove the paint from my coupe. I located a mobile blaster about 40 miles from my son's garage. Today I took the two rear fenders, the two splash panels, two running boards, the rear bumper brackets, the package tray, and hand brake assembly to his shop. He has been in the blast cleaning business for 15 years and has done Model Ts and As. He uses walnut, soda and crushed glass media.
I had planned to have him use soda on half of the fenders, splash panels and running boards and crushed glass on the other half as a trial. However, after discussing both media, we decided to just use crushed glass. I learned that soda removes paint but not the rust and it cost more. Also, you have to make sure you remove all traces of the soda because it can be detrimental to the paint.
He used 70 psi pressure, and it took 1 1/2 hours. I was pleased with the results.
I then took the pieces to my painter/body man who has been in the business for 25 years. He is conveniently located one mile from my son's garage. He was satisfied with the results. He will sand the surface with 220 grit abrasive.
The next step is to have the body blasted at my son's home.
In making my decision, I considered all the comments I received from the MTFCA members from my previous posts. I really appreciated that input! I hope my above information will be helpful to others.
I will post pictures of the above parts later.
Paint Removal for 1927 Coupe
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- Posts: 3324
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '23 cutoff, '25 touring, '27 touring
- Location: North Central FL
- MTFCA Number: 4838
- MTFCI Number: 115
- Board Member Since: 2000
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Re: Paint Removal for 1927 Coupe
Bruce
Good plan. Of course lots depends on the body condition and the need to remove heavy rust that blasting can perform.
My only body blasting was with a runabout, home unit, and took a while to do. The results were pleasing and of course a lot of hand sanding or orbital power was needed after the blast. Then prime, sand, prime fill, sand, prime, sand and sand and sand
The only concern after was for quite a while, fine white 'play' sand would shake out of the body cervices and land on the running boards. For that reason, went to chemical removal, was easy and of course the hand sanding had to be done anyway. But, no blast sand fell out of cracks!
Chemical using CitriStrip, plastic prevents early drying of the stripper.
Good plan. Of course lots depends on the body condition and the need to remove heavy rust that blasting can perform.
My only body blasting was with a runabout, home unit, and took a while to do. The results were pleasing and of course a lot of hand sanding or orbital power was needed after the blast. Then prime, sand, prime fill, sand, prime, sand and sand and sand
The only concern after was for quite a while, fine white 'play' sand would shake out of the body cervices and land on the running boards. For that reason, went to chemical removal, was easy and of course the hand sanding had to be done anyway. But, no blast sand fell out of cracks!
Chemical using CitriStrip, plastic prevents early drying of the stripper.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford