MTFCA Forum

Working on someone else's car. Recent rebuild with roughly 2000 miles on it. He lost babbitt in number one rod. Ordered new rod and I came over to replace. Looking at other rods I found this on number three and four. I plastegauged number 3 and it was .0015.

Number two was .0020. removed one shim and was .0015.

Looking at this and knowing number three was still at .0015 would you say they were too tight to start? If not what caused it to wear like this. Says he never ran it low on oil.

Mic-ed the crank and it is round and not egg shaped. The crack was turned when he had the engine rebuild. The guy that turned the crank had done numerous for me in the past.

Thoughts

The rod bearing surface is not chamfered on the ends properly and also no oil hole for a dipper.

What Dave said, no oil reservoir, almost looks like a rod setup for oil pressure?

You don't need oil hole for dippers if you don't run dippers but can you explain more what you mean chamfered? Rods were new babbited bought from one of the main suppliers

Check your replacement rod and compare. The rod parting half’s should have chanfers and if the rod has a hole drilled in the web it should be drilled threw to crank pin. If the cap is not drilled for dippers then the rod and cap would not be X’ed. Also check that your oil line is not plugged up if the hogs head or timing cover is off. Install a outside oil line and / or inside extra oil line if you haven’t already done so.