MTFCA Forum

I’ve looked on line for manuals but these do not match current pictures of the Rocky Mountain or A-C. This T was rebuilt 20 years ago. Could they possibly be a earlier version of the Rocky Mountains? Once they are I.D.’d I can hopefully find a manual and parts list.
I apologize for the sideways pictures and have no idea why they turn 90 degrees from the image site to here.

Look like modern Rocky Mountain/AC installed wrong or different than norm without the front mounting bracket. Can't quite see what is going on in the radius rod areas, between it and wheel.

I will take some closer pictures today but from looking at current ads for both brands these are not similar at all and have many different parts.

MichaelPawelek wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 01, 2021 7:30 am

I will take some closer pictures today but from looking at current ads for both brands these are not similar at all and have many different parts.

Agree with your assessment. Band & lining look like current RM modified, possibly with other period parts additionally modified. manufactured, modified & installed by humble hands of home.
First glance, design wise, look ok. Might even work in reverse.

They lock up the rear wheels quite well I believe because of the long lever.

Many after market parts are available for a short while and then the supplier goes out of business, or makes changes in the product. I would suspect they are an old type auxiliary brake on the market for a short time. Maybe someone who collects old advertisements can find something about them.
Norm

Someone welded on that bracket to the backing plate casting and added a pin to the center of the band, something I have thought of. The lever is simply turned around, as are the brake bands. That added pin to the top, which is missing from the RM setup, could be part of the reason why they don't work in reverse as they should. I have given thought on how to add the anchor pin. That setup look like a way to do it.

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 01, 2021 12:42 pm

Someone welded on that bracket to the backing plate casting and added a pin to the center of the band, something I have thought of. The lever is simply turned around, as are the brake bands. That added pin to the top, which is missing from the RM setup, could be part of the reason why they don't work in reverse as they should. I have given thought on how to add the anchor pin. That setup look like a way to do it.

The beauty & reason for the original RM brakes working so well in both directions is that center of band anchor.
My 14 has a similar, but small drum version that locks in both directions. (bonus: not big & noticeable)
To bad the old style isnt available today.

The current brakes being called RM are copies of the AC brakes that came out in about 1926. They did not have the center anchor. The slotted plates that are attached to the band was their (AC) idea to substitute for the center anchor.

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 01, 2021 2:16 pm

The current brakes being called RM are copies of the AC brakes that came out in about 1926. They did not have the center anchor. The slotted plates that are attached to the band was their (AC) idea to substitute for the center anchor.

I know, thats the problem. Earlier, branded "Rockey Mountain" brakes did. Restored a set. Worked great. There is a traceable parentage back to these from the current version. The name Jack Sunderman comes to mind as a reproducer. Memory fades. Weather period original or old repops, they show up occasionally & are worth more than a new set, especially to function.
Band pivot was attached to a big curved casting longer than the band diameter.

I had a set of the 1926/27 so called RM's, some of the earlier reproduction ACs (not orginal). I don't know how I screwed up the installation, because they seemed to work good both ways.
I have given thought it was the type of lining that was on them that helped. Another set, on a 1925, with the light colored lining, are absolute sh## for holding in reverse.

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 01, 2021 2:51 pm

I had a set of the 1926/27 so called RM's, some of the earlier reproduction ACs (not orginal). I don't know how I screwed up the installation, because they seemed to work good both ways.
I have given thought it was the type of lining that was on them that helped. Another set, on a 1925, with the light colored lining, are absolute sh## for holding in reverse.

If you keep the transmission brake properly adjusted, you will have brakes in reverse with the new ones. Can be & should be & maintained this way.
The proper setting of all 3 brakes is a bit too complicated for most guys, I find. Its a delicate balancing act. Lever, RM's, parking & transmission.

For fun, disconnect/back off the other 2 brake systems. Make sure your insurance coverage is up to date first & clear away the dog & kids.
Guys used to advocate removing the internal brake. Before wising up & removing a set I had installed on a big drum rear end, I got caught in a rain & discovered the inside brake was out of adjustment & they dont work at all when wet going forward also. Learned the hard way again.
Not saying they are useless or always dangerous, Just found a better way. I wonder why disks are so popular to some?
Off the shelf, small drum axle use is still an option I can recommend with precise adjustment instruction. Must maintain that adjustment periodically.

I dont like the performance of the grey solid lining they now come with. Prefer a woven type, like they used to wear new. The 26-7 parking brake type. Works ok. Old raybestos was great.

Anyway, not a personal problem any more, as all but the 14 have big drums rear ends relying on the parking shoes. As effective, more reliable, work in reverse, and rain resistant with a hand brake extension activation. An all around better choice IMO. For myself anyway.