MTFCA Forum

Can’t seem to get the gas tank to slip under the dash in my 26 roadster. Bought this as a project and am finally getting it back together. The tank is in beautiful shape in and out but when I go to install it, it lacks about an inch of clearing the bottom of the dash after inserting the tank outlet in the firewall hole and lifting up. What am I missing here? Do I have to remove the steering column?

I had to remove the dash on my 27 Roadster. Fair warning, it’s not a easy job as most of the screws are hard to get to.

I have a 1926 Roadster and removed and repaired the tank. It WILL go back in. You just have to start it with the back side left (drivers side) in and FORCE the passenger side in and up. REMOVE A BATTERY CABLE as there are hot wires on the ignition switch. ie, If it came out, it has to go back in.

PS. The tank wont just slip in---not an easy job.

Well, thanks to all who replied. I’ll give it another shot with plenty of vaseline and a big hammer!!! I considered taking out the dash but, having taken it out with the tank removed, it seems near impossible to get the screws back in with the tank installed. Thanks again, all help is appreciated.

Please let us know how the job turns out.

I had to pull the dash out. The use of clip nuts makes the job a lot easier. The only way to know that the screws don't have a nut backing is by looking under the dash. Our car is a driver and will never win a car show. It's for fun and we pile the kids in.

This is not a easy job but it can be done, having a helper is good. Take the forward floor board out, disconnect battery and take key switch loose from dash and let it hang down in front of dash. Take steering gear loose and to the side with steering wheel outside open drivers door. Place gas tank on hogshead and hang gas tank straps on their body hooks. Tip the back of the tank up some and lift up tank, have helper move tank straps up and threw fire wall then start nuts on straps on engine side of fire wall rotating tank back level and up as you go. Tighten tank strap nuts a little as you go to help hold up the tank and check that fill area is going up into fill door area in body. Good luck.

I have had the tank out (and back in) my '27. As has been mentioned before, this is not a fun job. I agree with those who say that you don't have to remove the dash, but I did have to remove the steering column. It has been mentioned on this forum previously that not all T body styles are exactly the same dimensionally. I'm here to tell you that either the dash or the steering column has to come out on my touring car. I think Ford started a gas tank on the assembly line and built the rest of the car around it. Frankly, I see a helper as a hinderance rather then a help. There is so little room in the dash area that I think an extra pair of hands would be in the way; besides, it might stifle my "venting" when I became as PO'd as I was until I realized the the column had to come out and there was no way around it.

Guess I should have said that the helper’s job is to tighten the gas tank strap nuts that are on the engine side of the fire wall. It goes easier to tighten each nut, one on each side of the car, a little at a time from side to side until the tank is fully in place. I once owned a 1926 T roadster pickup that was built up from parts and this is how I got the tank in, except I didn’t install the steering gear until after the tank was in place.

Well, the gas tank is in!!!! Just for simplicity and to make sure I had the padding in the correct place,(I glued it to the tank), I leaned the column out the door and,,,, took out the dash. Looking back, I’m glad I did. It took a bit longer but I’m confident of the fit. It’s my first T build and so the learning curve is a little steep at times. I’ve built several A’s to drive, so am anxious to get this on the road.
Thanks to all who took the time to respond to the call for help. This is a great forum!

I'm very happy for you. I remember the elation I felt when my 1926 tank popped in. I did not move my steering column. Now on to the next step---

The question is: after 95 years is it still original?
Andre
Belgium

Andre, No its not all original, Z head, distributor, cast iron Warford, lightened flywheel, etc. I’m trying to decide about 6 vs 12 volt now. I’m ok with 6 but the engine came with a 12 volt Pertronix . Don’t know what to do.