MTFCA Forum

Bryant wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 10, 2021 8:13 pm

Looking to get any ideas on what vendors have the best transmission rebuild parts? Iam looking to start the process of rebuilding. I usually get things from Lang’s but pondering other sources people may have used.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 11, 2021 8:40 am

Bryant wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 10, 2021 8:13 pm

Looking to get any ideas on what vendors have the best transmission rebuild parts? Iam looking to start the process of rebuilding. I usually get things from Lang’s but pondering other sources people may have used.

Parts are the easy part. Z bronze bushings.
A proper rebuild requires @ minimum a lathe & press. Balance work. I believe Milt Webb put out an exhaustive "how to"
This is a job better done by professionals. At least READ, READ, READ before you try it. T-1 will tell you how to disassemble. Need special pullers. Never pull on drums.

George Mills wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 11, 2021 11:27 am

Last time that I looked, there were two different pin vendors and both were definately serviceable, yet one was just a degree more precision out of the box. It's been a while tho and you can maybe do a search...I think the one was center-less ground, the other ground on centers like originals but I can't recall which one was the 'tighter' of the two.

Do mic them when you get them...I'm also told there are oversize pins somewhere in circulation that should be labelled as T715AR but may not be. The fat end tells you which is which.

FWIW, if you do decide to do things yourself...really do search as the final clearance for a home done job CAN NOT be what is purported to be the designed clearance. You hone them to that number and you may just get 100 miles out of the rebuild

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 11, 2021 2:51 pm

By your question, I would not have imagined your capabilities.
Bored or honed bushings. "racing clearance" fits. Go to the outside specs.
The clutch hub puller langs sells is a great tool.

Scott_Conger wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 11, 2021 3:09 pm

Bryant

heed John's admonition regarding clearances

In most cases, the large bushings in the drums are serviceable as-is

with respect to triple gear bushings, you can find a lot of disagreement on what the drawing means for those bushings. It's an interesting read if you research it, but if you chose the wrong fellow to listen to, you will get much practice rebuilding your new transmission. Over and over.

Read this regarding our Tech Editor's sad tale and resulting information presented...and note the Ford Factory finished clearances derived from both the reamed and broached method of bushing sizing: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/210880.html

A careful read will further reinforce John's advice

Mopar_man wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 11, 2021 4:20 pm

OK here is my 2 cents. I just went down this road You can see what I've done here

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9508

My Transmission broke a triple gear pin and ended up causing all kinds of issues. The Model T is a very forgiving car until it's not. You can read all about people bandaging their car together using all sorts of trickery. Some good some bad. For me rebuilding the transmission was beyond what I was capable of.

I started researching machine shops and found J&M Machine in MA. When I brought them the transmission John took it apart and magnafluxed the drums. Two of them were cracked. The third was put on a lath so many times that it was extremely thin. So I needed new drums. Not many people make them but J&M does. Comparing their drums to the originals I could see that the J&M ones were very strong. Keep in mind that when using 100 year old parts most things will be worn out. I also got to see what a good machine shop looked like while I was there. I chose to use their drums and their services as I didn't want to do this job again.

IMG_4027.jpeg

They balanced everything and made sure that I would all work perfectly.

Balence machine.jpeg

gear weight.jpeg

IMG_4111.jpeg

So were they a bit more money. Sure. Did I make an investment in my transmission so I won't have future problems. Yes!!
Drums.jpeg

Remember Machine work is expensive. Bad machine work is way more expensive.

Scott_Conger wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 11, 2021 4:57 pm

Bryant

Do be sure to READ it, and more importantly, have your machinist friend read it, too.

A good machinist, if he uses modern machinery practice and does not heed the information contained in that thread from the Ford Factory, will build you a transmission which is theoretically correct upon installation, and actually broken within 100 miles.

It's that important.

John Illinois wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 12, 2021 8:35 am

I found the Transmission videos by Mike Bender to be very helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCz9Cs_ ... d6e-WMvuRQ


John

George Mills wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 12, 2021 2:02 pm

Bryant,

Glad to know you have a super machinist to help...

Just a word to the wise once again...IGNORE the Ford specification of 0.002" 'clearance'. Ignore the Ford caution 'worn out at 0.005"'.

You need to shoot for 0.0035 total between the pin and live with size to 'over' in the 4th decimal place. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Cleanliness is next to godliness. Make sure to face the bushes to 010" and not leave as stock. Make sure you insert and seat the pins from the right side. Make sure the oil grove in the bush is full and not just a scratch in the bronze.

All of this is in the book, but make yourself post-its...its not just 'only a T'. Done right and driven right that 0035" will take your lifetime and then some to grow past 0.005". Done too tight or to original Ford specs...and those who warn know...your chances of swallowing the rebuild in early mileage go astronomical.

If your friend would like to know design 'maximum material condition' and 'minimal material condition' range charts made from Ford original drawings...drop me a note...most folks don't understand them so I won't confuse here, but if your friend is that saavy...I'm here.