MTFCA Forum

I was torn as to whether to make this OT or not, but decided to post it in the general discussion forum because the answer could be applied to damaged, fractured, or leaking Model T fuel tanks.

I have an antique ornate brass Bradley-Hubbard gone with the wind oil lamp that has a stamped, cylindrical brass kerosene tank. The lamp is circa 1890 and like many stamped brass pieces this old, stress fractures have formed in the thin brass making it impossible for it to hold fuel. Anyone who collects Edison outside horn cylinder phonographs may have seen this phenomenon in the original stamped brass bell of the witches hat horn that frequently crack.

Does anyone know of a good epoxy liquid that can be poured into the oil lamp fuel tank that will seal the cracks from the inside? It would be easier to seal it from the outside but I need to seal it from the inside because the tank slides down snugly into a sleeve in an ornate brass lamp stand. Thank you. Jim Patrick

You can buy Red Coat at O’Reillys and like of, works excellent, then come back with a gold color sharpie pin and color in the cracks. Polish like normal.

All the Best,

Hank

My B&H had the same issue. I used gas tank sealer to coat the inside. The tube in the middle was fine so just did the outside. It has been fine for over 20 years. Make sure the inside is real clean. Most old kerosene leave a coating behind so need to be cleaned out.

Forgot about the kerosene Mark! Good catch. You can use acetone or MEK to cut the old reside.

Hank

Thank you all. “Red Kote” sounds like a good product. Is it better than “POR 15”? I went online and read the instructions for “Red Kote” and it said it is to be used on steel tanks. Do you think there would be a problem using it on brass tanks? Thank you. Jim Patrick

Well. I will MAKE this ON topic! I need to seal a model T gasoline tank. The last time I did this, was before the govemessitup put all that alcohol in the gasoline. Right now there is a discussion on the AACA forum about the current best tank sealers, but so far, I am underwhelmed by the responses there. However, both Red-Kote and POR-15 have been mentioned. So what do our illustrious wealth of knowledge folks have to say about it?

wayne sheldon wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 29, 2019 2:47 am

Well. I will MAKE this ON topic! I need to seal a model T gasoline tank. The last time I did this, was before the govemessitup put all that alcohol in the gasoline. Right now there is a discussion on the AACA forum about the current best tank sealers, but so far, I am underwhelmed by the responses there. However, both Red-Kote and POR-15 have been mentioned. So what do our illustrious wealth of knowledge folks have to say about it?

Well, back when I worked at the local radiator shop, to fix a hole in a gas tank, we cleaned it in the dip tank (had some foul smelling, brown alkaline chemical) the cleaned the rust out by putting bolts, nuts, chains, etc and roll it around in the parking lot. After soldering up the hole, red kite was put in the tank. MEK was used to remove old applications of red kote.

Of course,none of those tanks had baffles in the like a Model T tank.

you want cream seal i find it at motorcycle dealerships. it is white i dont like the red stuff as good. philip

I’ve used Red Kote for decades to seal Porsche tanks that are prone to rusting out an are not reproduced at a cost most can stomach. The Red Kote does not fully harden and is flexible. If you ever want to remove it acetone liquefies it again. I’ve used it in carburetor bowls and on field coils to seal wrapping coming off original field coils with success. Your mileage may be different.

Red coat good
I used pork 15 as well

I have used the "Pro-Seal" on aircraft fuel tanks, can't vouch for the other products. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categori ... lants.html

Thank You!

i have had Red Coat fail me on 2 different things.1 tank on a small 5hp briggs engine.I cleaned the tank,rinsed it with MEK as explained on the can. It sat in the shed with some gas in it for about 2 years.I pulled the little parking lot blower out a couple weeks ago to get it cleaned up to sell and the liner had come completly loose from inside the tank.
Another case was on a 3hp Briggs I restored for use on a mini bike project.A freind needed his roto tiller running and quick so I let him use the engine,the Red coat disolved within 1 tank of fuel,clogging the carb on the engine and making 1 heck of a mess.
I honestly don't know what liner to trust.When I paid a guy to vat this 3hp gas tank his cleaning methods were the same used on car tanks and so forth.He put the liner in it after he cleaned it.It was what his shop did for a living.I did the 5 hp tank myself.
So like I say, if a new tank aint a option,then do more research and make sure what you use is good stuff.
Kream from Bill hearsh, I hope it is better than it was years ago.Many a day I would ride with a freind in his 39 Chevy and the fuel filter would stop up with sheets of that stuff that came loose in the tank.

Dern! Red Kote unreliable? I Don’t need lamp oil leaking all over the table the lamp is sitting on. Back to square one. Jim Patrick

Let's say you've thoroughly cleaned your tank, container, lamp fount, whatever.........and discover numerous rust pin holes or cracks. You can't put any sort of epoxy sealer in that! Not to worry. Use masking or painter's tape on the outside over the holes and then swish the sealer and let it dry. Remove the tape and polish or paint the outside.

I've used this silly little stunt on several gas tanks. Normally you end up with an excess of sealer on the bottom anyway, which reinforces any rusted areas.

As to the quality of various sealers, I've only used the POR15. Expensive, but it cures to a tough, rubbery consistency that defies vibration and cracking.

Caswell plating has a 2 part fuel tank sealer that I used in my 28A beater pickup 3 years ago. So far it has worked quite well and I have had NO issues with it. Lots better than stopping every 10 miles to clear the rust from the filter.

Mack not that it couldn't happen but I’ve never seen Red Kote peel or sluf off after curing using real gas, fake gas, diesel or kerosene. I’ve used in other applications also, like carbide tanks, field coils, oil font tanks but all of those were cleaned & dried before application. Easy to remove also, just use acetone and it will liquefy. I’ll be the first one to say though nothing is a 100%.
Good luck, John

Thank you Mack, for your insights. And thanks to all with opinions and sharing experiences, good and bad.
I checked at our local O'Reilly's, no have got. Apparently it is one of the many products they do not carry in Califunny.
All things considered, I think I may just make my own new tank. Can't afford to buy one. Doesn't need to be perfect. I would need to buy some materials. A little brazing and soldering. Should be a piece of cake!
I have a couple original tanks in pretty good condition. It just seems ridiculous to not use them. But the lousy modern poor-excuse-for-gas causes tanks to rust once all the galvanize is gone.

John, I have seen Red Kote crack into chips before, but not really sure what caused it. Might be because the tank sat unused as the motorcycle it went to got set to the side without fuel it for a couple years. Still think it’s a good product though