MTFCA Forum

I did get radiator hoses a few years ago, installed, and have had to add coolant. .... noticed coolant leakage at the hoses and have tightend
clamps, but didn't really solve the problem of leakage. Any suggestions ???? The hoses I bought from one of our suppliers have a hard shiny finished surface on the inside of the hose and I believe no matter how tight a clamp gets it will not change the surface to mate with the casting.

Are you using "stock" appearing clamps or a good modern worm drive ?

You shouldn't have to use modern clamps. I have no leaks using original style clamps. I do put fillister head screws in them so the screwdriver can get a good bite.

Your leaking is probably caused by irregular metal surfaces, especially if they are pitted. Start with the metal clean and dry. Apply Ultra Black all around. Smear grease on the inside surface of the hose and install. Tighten the clamp enough for the hose to establish good contact with the sealant all around. Let it sit long enough for the sealant to set, then tighten the screws "until just before they break".

When I remove a radiator I unbolt the inlet and outlet from the engine and leave the pipe and hoses attached to the radiator. It's easier to reinstall the inlet and outlet than messing with the hoses.

If your leak is at the upper hose, look carefully at it. Many times, the radiator inlet tube is leaking where it's soldered to the tank. The coolant makes its way to the top edge of the hose, where it accumulates and makes it appear that the hose is leaking. A broken solder joint at the overflow tube can do the same thing as well.

You can rough up the inside of the hoses on each end all the way around then apply “Ultra Black”, or “The Right Stuff” slide on and clamp. If there are any pits or irregularities, the RTV should fill them, while bonding the two surfaces. Allow to cure for a day before filling with water and starting the engine. Jim Patrick

There is a type of electrical tape that would probably be good for repairing corroded water outlet necks. It's a stretchy, soft, uncured rubber type of tape, not the slick vinyl type. It is not gummed, but is naturally adhesive. It will adhere to most any dry surface, and it sticks to itself. A layer or two of this tape, stretched and wrapped around a corroded water neck, ought to seal about anything. I don't know if it is oil resistant.

Using. "stock" type hose clamps. What inside diameter replacement hose would you use. ??

Steve's suggestion is very similar to James' suggestion except Steve suggests doing something so the hose isn't "glued" to the sealant. If you do Jame's suggestion you will have to follow Steve's system of unbolting the inlet & outlet fittings to remove the radiator! Jerry has a very good point to, the leak could be elsewhere, but looking like it's the hose.
I've also been told some folk use the modern band clamps until the hose settles in, then take them off and put on the original style ones.

If I do use modern style radiator hose what inside diameter would anyone suggest.. the upper hose I know would be a little bit larger inside diameter then the lower hose. Thanks in advance

Measure the diameter. If it leaking, drain down the radiator, take the hose off and inspect the surfaces. If the upper inlet is rotted away, no amount of "goop" is going to fix it, if the outlet on the head is severely pitted, clean and fill the pits with JB weld and sand down. Most better auto parts stores sell bulk hose by the foot and would not be able to look up a modern replacement hose without you knowing a make mode year that would work. If you are going to replace all the hoses, just buy the kit.

Mark. . ... Quote" just buy the kit...." I believe is contributing to my problem because of the hard slippery surface of the inside of those hoses.... The firmness of that rubber is not really contributing to seal that connection.

I dont mess with original style repop clamps. They are too thin & will typically bend before sealing.
Gates H/D green stripe hose. (napa by the foot) Normal hose clamps. If pitting, a thin layer of ultra black over a clean end. No issues.
I dont use the red hose kit. The stuff gets soft & mushy. Much shorter life & over time not reusable.

I use clear RTV at my hose connections. It takes care of irregular surfaces and makes it easy to remove the hose at a later date. To remove just loosen the clamp and rotate the hose and it breaks free. The metal parts wont rust into the hose making it hard to remove the hose later.

What inside diameter replacement hose would you use. ??

Upper hose is 2". Lower hoses are 13/4".

I use the original style clamps. I also clean up the connections. Check the input and output from the engine for pin holes rusted out. If so, they need to be replaced. Then I put ultra black on the connections and clamp the hose. I like to get the clamp against the raised ring around the fittings so the clamp will hold the hose tight. If later I need to remove the radiator or head, I leave the connections in place and remove the bolts from the engine.
Norm

If, for some reason, I like the look of the vintage hose clamps, but not their effectiveness, I put the silicone around the metal tube and then slip the rubber hose over it and install a modern worm clamp and snug up. Run the motor until warm and then keep tightening until no leaks. Let engine cool and remove worm clamps by completely undoing them and instal the vintage clamps the same way and tighten them down as much as you can. The hose should keep it's seal from the modern clamp and you can enjoy the look of the vintage clamp. Put the worm clamps in your spare parts tool bin in the T, just in case.

I never knew why my radiator and engine diameters are different. Thought someone put in the wrong radiator
inlet. Difference is 1/8 in. I go half way between and seems to work.

Art Mirtes

I never knew why my radiator and engine diameters are different. Thought someone put in the wrong radiator
inlet. Difference is 1/8 in. I go half way between and seems to work.

Art Mirtes

Thanks to everyone for their responses, appreciated !