MTFCA Forum

I drilled and fit a Dan McEachern deep sump to a 4 dip pan, with spacer, running an A crankshaft .I put 4 - 7/8 inch stand pipes in the intermediate dip plate, and a 1inch dam at the rear of the pan.
I'm concerned that could increase oil consumption due to excessive splashing.
Appreciate all input.

I've installed a dam behind the 4th rod on 3 dip pans. Made it as tall as the horse shoes. No noticable oil consumption. What you are doing I've never done.

Thata a valid concern. Flush with the dam ribs is plenty. I have one motor set up that way. Outside oiler volume will over oil. (Texas hi volume)Has made for more oil being sucked up @ hi vacuum (idle) & making a cloud @ acceleration necessitating a bit of metering to control. Excess oil will get around horse shoes. (that all looks good.)

got10carz wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 15, 2021 8:28 am

I've installed a dam behind the 4th rod on 3 dip pans. Made it as tall as the horse shoes. No noticable oil consumption. What you are doing I've never done.

I have dammed the back up to the rear main cap (1.5") That was excessive. More was not better. I ended up cutting the dam down to 1/2". Worked fine after that.

Too much oil WILL cause oil burning. I'd expect it would also sap power due to having too much oil churning around the crankcase. I had an over-oiling problem with a Texas T oiler in a stock pan. I partially restricted the flow and the over oiling issue is totally gone. NO smoke, ever, and the plugs all run nice and clean. Oil leakage is and consumption down, too. I've driven the car quite a bit since the modification, routinely running the engine at 1800 to 2000 RPM with no issues. (I wonder how much power a stock T splash system dissipates with the flywheel assembly thrashing in the oil sump? An oil pump and drilled crankshaft would probably use less power.)

I tried running 20/50 motorcycle synthetic oil to control the smoking, but it didn't do much good. Reducing the Texas T oiler volume eliminated the issue entirely, and I now run 10W30 synthetic with a pint of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL. Works great.

My thinking is the height of four stand pipes will control the amount of oil on dip plate, irregardless of the one inch high dam, therefore shorten stand pipe height resulting in less oil on dip plate.
Thanks for all input.

The standpipes would control the oil level in the dip pan, assuming they were large enough, and assuming that splash, draft, and general turbulence in the oil didn't prevent oil draining through efficiently. There's not much force acting on the oil to make it go down the pipes, and there's probably a lot of forces acting to prevent it from doing so at various engine speeds, and under some conditions, oil might be pulled up through them.

Wouldn't the centrifugal action of the flywheel want to pull the oil through the stand pipes? I am guessing that the plate in the bottom of the flywheel section is open on the rotation side (right), and that the return pipe is under it?

I just reread Pats post:"oil might be pulled up through them." Missed that.

Very interesting discussion!
I have done several pressure oiled T engines but I now have a splash oiled A crank T engine in the “que”, so good timing for this information for me!
Thank you.

For full oil pressure on mains and rods, here's the ticket on a deep sump!


Hank

Not a good idea to make the dam or the standoffs any higher than about 1/4" higher than the horseshoes.