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Pros and cons for powder coating wood wheel hub and rim

Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 1:00 pm
by NealW
I am restoring a 1915 runabout and am in the process of tearing down the non-demountable wheels to send to Stutzman's for re-wooding. I checked with a local company about sand blasting and powder coating the rims and hub parts, and getting them powder coated black only adds about $20 per wheel. I'm leaning towards just varnishing the spokes, so having the remaining wheel parts powder coated black would save a little time by not having to paint them, plus providing potentially a more durable finish.

Before I commit to doing that though, I would be interested in hearing from those with first hand experience regarding any pros and cons for having these parts powder coated.

Thanks in advance,

Neal

Re: Pros and cons for powder coating wood wheel hub and rim

Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 4:28 pm
by Scott_Conger
Myself, I would not do it. For one thing, every wart and pimple on the parts will show through the coating. Second, what is "black"? You will likely not have a match to the depth of color or reflectivity of the black on your car (baring the use of "flat", there are at least 6 levels of reflectivity available). If you use a color, matching will be even a worse situation. Third, the lay of the material may range from a bit alligatored, to very flat...and once it's down, there is no sanding it...you'll end up with fish-eyes if you do. Fourth, if you're not happy, with it, it is not an ideal base to paint over.

Those 4 reasons are why I would not consider it.

FWIW.

Re: Pros and cons for powder coating wood wheel hub and rim

Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 7:48 pm
by Mark Gregush
You would be adding extra thickness to were the spokes sit on the hub and it would be hard to get the flange plate on. The inside were the spokes go never got paint. The wheels were assembled dipped then spun. Most powder coating that I have seen is thicker then just paint. I would just paint the outside and touch up were the flange scrapes the paint off. The flanges should be a slip/snug fit on the hub any looseness there will allow the spokes to work back and forth. Even paint can add extra thickness where the spokes press in the fellow(I know wrong spelling :) )