MTFCA Forum

Electronic dummy here, seeking guidance. In scheming to add turn signals to my 1915 runabout, today I've been shopping online for components. Finding the LED towers was pretty easy. But in choosing a flasher one word is giving me pause. I've found the one below and several similar flashers at similar prices. Fine. But why are they all specified for motorcycle use? Is there something about them that makes them unsuitable for use on my car?

I don't know of any reason why except that most motorcycles have only 2 bulbs to flash per side, while many cars have more. A flasher meant to operate with several bulb filaments loading it will flash very slowly with fewer filaments loading it or lower wattage filaments. A regular motorcycle specific flasher would probably flash very rapidly if used on a modern car or pickup. I'm assuming the prongs are in the common arrangement, and not a motorcycle specific arrangement, and that the flasher is the old style bimetallic type. LEDs may require an electronic flasher or other mods. ****** I've never encountered an adjustable flasher, so none of the above may apply.****

Steve, I can't be much help, but I'll be following your efforts closely because I worry about the lack of signals on my Flanders. Even hand signals won't work because it is right hand drive.

Steve. I recently purchased components to rig up a flasher circuit for my 15 RPU as well. I am using a rechargeable lithium battery for the power source. I'm still in prototype phase but should have it complete soon and will be testing on the road. The whole assembly will be easily removable from my truck tailgate so it does not harm the 'looks' of the vehicle once I am parked but is using DOT sized lights for safety sake. Here's a quick video and a photo of the flasher I am using, for your reference.

My whole turn signal endeavor should cost less than $100 in parts, and be much more visible than those for sale on sites such as Egypt Garage.

https://youtube.com/shorts/7VnkwmcCNXM?feature=share

Andy

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 18, 2021 5:48 pm

Electronic dummy here, seeking guidance. In scheming to add turn signals to my 1915 runabout, today I've been shopping online for components. Finding the LED towers was pretty easy. But in choosing a flasher one word is giving me pause. I've found the one below and several similar flashers at similar prices. Fine. But why are they all specified for motorcycle use? Is there something about them that makes them unsuitable for use on my car?

Could be that cars usually have a 3 pin flasher where one pin is to the dash blinker and this has just 2. Same flasher different color.

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 18, 2021 7:10 pm

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 18, 2021 5:48 pm

Electronic dummy here, seeking guidance. In scheming to add turn signals to my 1915 runabout, today I've been shopping online for components. Finding the LED towers was pretty easy. But in choosing a flasher one word is giving me pause. I've found the one below and several similar flashers at similar prices. Fine. But why are they all specified for motorcycle use? Is there something about them that makes them unsuitable for use on my car?

Could be that cars usually have a 3 pin flasher where one pin is to the dash blinker and this has just 2. Same flasher different color.

What a great circuit diagram. Same way I'm working mine up.

Andy

3 pin is usually for combination brake/turn signal with 7 wires (break in brake light circuit). 2 pin for independent turn signals normally amber and 5 wires.


Hope this Helps,

Hank

Steve,
I know I am not alone in having tried a modern solid state flasher designed for LED turn lights, found that it worked perfectly.... and then started the engine.
Then, either RF from the coils or dirty DC interferes.
I had to revert to a hot-wire flasher and old style bulbs at the rear to correctly load the flasher.

So before you make a lot of effort, connect a few wires and try it.........

Ref the Blaryeti ad above, why would anyone want a 2-pack of flashers??

My first flasher died within 9 miles. I ziptied it to the cowel. Engine vibration killed it. I have another to install this winter.

Chris Barker wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 19, 2021 8:47 am

Ref the Blaryeti ad above, why would anyone want a 2-pack of flashers??

Just used it as wiring diagram reference. But it always helps to have a spare when the one you have fails, like Mark's

Regarding the last few posts, I'm not surprised. My experience is that the electrical noise in a Model T will basically have a two-pin flasher for lunch. Without a ground, the induced voltage overpowers the electronics in them. As Chris said, they work fine until you start the engine. Then they just twitch (or die). You need a three-pin LED flasher (V+, Gnd, Load). I switched to one of those, and my turn signals have worked fine ever since.

Steve, I have used superbrightleds.com when I set up my blinkers. Before I ordered anything I spoke to the technician to make sure I was buying the right parts. They walked me through and set up for me all the proper parts, I was writing as they were telling me all the part numbers, ordered everything, installed all and it works perfectly. The guys are patient and will explain everything properly, but you have to ask every bit of the way. I used a rocker switch and bulbs on the dash to remind me that it is still flashing. Then a running light switch and headlight switch. Frank

Steve; I would think Motorcycle would be exactly what you would want on a Model T. Designed for exposure to weather and vibration and lightweight electrical system, who could ask for anything more!

Can't help with the definitions, but I can confirm that I use 'motorcycle' units in my cars. They work fine.

(PS, motorcycle units are easier to find in 6v)

...installed all and it works perfectly.

Frank, what did you do to your side lamps to install wires?

Steve, as you can see, I installed, cilinoned in 3 inch circular running lights and then removed the Vic assembly and replaced with the bulb socket. This way you cannot tell anything has been modified till the blinker is activated. In the back, same circular led for running lights but dual element bulb for blinker and brake. You run the wires out the top chimney through a heat shrink tube, heat it and it is almost unseen except from up close, but no drilling or welding is done anywhere. I also installed a second oil light on the rear passenger side so modern distracted drivers recognize what I am attempting to do. I have extra ford brackets for the second oil lamp if you need.
If you wish, send me a p.m. and I can send additional pictures or explanations or a video of everything working. Frank