MTFCA Forum

Anyone have detail plans for the type/style of speedster pictured below, scale plans would be great, floor looks to be most of it. I would make seat riser to fit me. Anyway, any help would be great, middle/top ones (steering column/seat height) is more along the lines I would like to build.

Go down to Dan's post and work from there; http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80 ... 1251942872
Someone might have a set, but most just build their own, as were the 2 samples you show. Most every one is different.

Here you go

A couple of bodies I have built

Thanks Tom,
Glad to see you moved away from the snow zone, are you still delivering speedster bodies in your minivan, good to see you are still around and making things P.S you don't have a plan view to go with the rest of the drawing do you.

All that's missing is the width which is 32" Firewall height depends on which radiator you use .
I will post pictures for how I put in wire edge if requested .

Model T Tom wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 22, 2021 6:10 am

Here you go

Hi Tom,
On the diagram I presume the side view at bottom is 3/4" ply, is the inner also 3/4" (pieces A-B-H-J and K) and again presume it produces
a lip/shelf for floor/deck to sit on, do you have lateral stringers? I also do not see signs of carriage bolts for attachment to frame, the black car is very nice work by the way.

All wood is 3/4 .

I’d be interested on how you did the wire….

Saw this on Facebook I use channel locks to bend metal up and trap the wire in. I scribe a 7/16 line on the metal and use tension wire for fences from home Depot.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_ ... =827407807

How do you attach brass trim? On some speedsters I see screws, but is there a method so no screws show for a nice smooth look?

Isstead of the wire I use 7/16 thin wall brass tube and mill a small slot and solder it on. Fit it first then solder it on. Pain in the butt but looks great

Picture out of order have to add more

More pictures

Email me to explain more

Use half inch conduit tubing that is sliced lengthwise and slip cut tube over the straight metal edge and tack weld the tube on. Much faster and cleaner than tapping out a wire edge with a hammer.

If you invest in a “bead roller”, the wire edging becomes pretty darn easy!

I have a bead roller need 3 people to help. I can do it all in 1 1/2 hours .by myself . I'll sell my bead roller .

If you tilt your seat back like shown in Tom's diagram, you will be more comfortable on long drives. Having a seat perpendicular to the floor is not conducive to comfort.

Yep it sucks on a long ride the riser for the seat and buckets are slanted back as well

I have a foot controlled variable speed drive on my beed roller, so the vast majority of projects are easily done by myself. Very occasionally (making a fender for instance) I recruit a helper.

Yes there are great for a one body off build not worth it . I've built 80 speedster bodies and did all by hand .

The Mercury Speedster Plans

Secrets of Speed plan

How to build cycle fenders details in the link https://mtfctulsa.com/Tech/speedster_fenders.htm
This a PDF of that link

A wealth of information is in the technical sections
https://www.nwvs.org/ --
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https://www.nwvs.org/technical-reference/ --
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https://www.nwvs.org/Technical/MTFCA/Sp ... Body.shtml

Model T Tom wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 22, 2021 6:10 am

Here you go

A big Thank You to Tom, what you shared in the diagram you posted gave me a big head start, I needed to modify it a little but the info was invaluable.
Now if I can find a set of paper/card patterns for a boat tail I'll be in tall cotton.

Looks like you are pretty far along on the base, but consider dropping the seat platform all the way down to the floor level. Your seats are going to be pretty far up in the air as it is now.

Dan McEachern wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 13, 2022 3:50 pm

Looks like you are pretty far along on the base, but consider dropping the seat platform all the way down to the floor level. Your seats are going to be pretty far up in the air as it is now.

I'm too old to sit on the floor I'm not sure it's any higher than the first two pictured above or the black car.

Edit, change picture with seat shells on.

Looking to build a long-nosed speedster like this one. Anyone have diagrams for the floorboards, risers etc. Also, measurements to cut firewall for shape. Prefer to use boards rather than plywood. My friend will make the hood around what I build but have no idea who made this speedster. I like the shape and lines of this hood.

Mine is a 1916. Plan to move the lever outboard of the frame, use buckets on angled riser low on the floor and no sideboard as in this one. Thanks for any suggestions.

Caswell wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 22, 2021 12:41 am

Anyone have detail plans for the type/style of speedster pictured below, scale plans would be great, floor looks to be most of it. I would make seat riser to fit me. Anyway, any help would be great, middle/top ones (steering column/seat height) is more along the lines I would like to build.

While your reviewing this discussion one of the members has a speedster, partially built, like what your're looking for for sale. He is a well known speedster builder. The parts and their condition of what he has assembled for his build would take you at least 2 years to obtain. AND yo would need to ravel to several of the most known swap meets in the country to possible find them. The hub caps aren't made anymore, they're priceless. It is located in Florida
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... 88#p263846
Model T Tom provided the plains used to build it in this discussion

I already have a complete 1916 speedster, but it is in the regular style so buying another is not practical. Plus, it is too new. I have a friend who makes steel for modified Model A's, 32s and later. This is an example of what he makes. He is going to do the skin. But I have to do the carpentry. I saw the pen & ink drawing Model T Tom posted and that will help a lot as I want an angled back seat riser. But what I need to know is the shape of the floor as it tapers out from a 15/16 style radiator and out to and a bit passed the firewall like the red car in the post above.

Also, the shape of the firewall would be very helpful. I would love it to start at the radiator and go out to the width of the 2 seats side by each. He will skin around anything I build, but I need to follow a map as I am an old infantryman. I wish I could find one locally that I could get some time on with a tape measure.

This is a basic sketch of what I am going for. Obviously, it's not to scale.

The firewall to cowl angle and where it meets the base is one of the hardest things to get "right" looking at literally hundreds over the decades it's amazing how few look right imo of course. On the one I am building (back burner now) I used poster board to get the shape as it is far easier to work with/bend controlled wise than cardboard.

This one is pretty straightforward. Rusty Berg's Chevy headed speedster at Piquette a couple years ago.